Is 0.3" wc your return, supply or tesp? What does the ID tag inside the airhandler list for max allowable static pressure? Can you provide a link to pictures of the airhandler that show as much of the install as possible? Has the coil been checked with a level side to side, is the secondary drain line hooked up?

 

Try cleaning the coil. The fins might have oil or something on them from the factory that’s breaking the surface tension of the condensation. I’ve seen it a few times with customers who burn candles.

 

I hope I attached files correctly.
This is air handler, though P-Trap has now been extended farther done. Pictures are from before P-trap being extended.

.3 was total static presssure

What is a secondary drain line. There is only one drain line coming out of the air handler.

As for it being level, I would have to check and have not heard that being an issue. I assume it was checked, but not sure.

 

On my first coil that was dripping, contractor cleaned it and no change.
I would not know how to clean it and would not want to risk damaging the coils.

 

Was the same P-Trap used but lowered or a new one fabricated?

 

New one fabricated and it is 8-10 inches lower than the old one.

Here is photo of new P-trap.

 

with .3 static thats more then enough.

 

Pecmsg,
If more than enough, should not have any dripping water within blower compartment correct?

 

The trap elementals 1 issue. Still several others.

 

Pecmag,

I am not following what you mean by trap elementals. I am not in the industry just a homeowner.
What does that mean and what are the several other issues. Can you explain in laymen's terms

 

There are several thing that can cause carry over. Oils and chemicals from the factory, excessive static pressure, poor installation. A tech need to be on site to test and evaluate.

 

I can't tell from the pictures if the top of the Tee by the unit is capped. If it is open then the pan won't drain and water will spill.

 

Top of tee by the unit is capped.
There are no clogs in the drain line. That has been double/triple checked.

 

Is there any area of the drain line after the trap that could form a second trap(sagging drain line or old trap left on the drain line)? If you've got a level check from side to side and front to back, does water drain out while it's running? If it was running for an hour and you shut it off at the breaker do you get a trickle or a dump of water out of the drain line?

 

One of the pictures shows a tee after the trap. That vent should eliminate the possibility of a double trap.

 

I was thinking of all horizontal drain lines I've seen where theres 3-4 traps in a row

 

Makeitcold,
What do you mean about horizontal drain lines with 3-4 traps in a row.
From what I was told, the p-trap set up should work with the second open kept open.

I have not run it for an hour to check what happens when I shut it off since it never runs for an hour during normal conditions.
Under normal conditions it seems to drain.
We do not run it that low of a temperature 75-76 and humidity in the house is never above 50% even on most humid days.

 

So at design conditions you only get short run cycles?

 

The only time may run for about a half hour or so is around 5-7 pm when it is hottest out and upper 80's and above. Other than that it runs about 10-15 minutes on/off and after just a few cycles humidity is at 42-44%. Live in a northern state if that helps. Also, around 9 pm, system does not even run until next day around noon unless I want to remove a little humidity in the morning due to showers.
No one that has been here has said this system is not running ok. Maybe if I ran it 70 degrees it would run longer, but the house is comfortable at 75-76 since the humidity is usually low.

 

Just one more thing to consider. We had a number of days in the mid to upper 70's with very low humidity and there was still quite a bit of dripping after running for 3-4 hours in the afternoon. That was when it got hot enough for outside to turn on air. Not sure if this matters or not, but outside air was dry and not humid.
Would additional insulation in the attic help? It did not matter on our original TWE Trane system

 

I see it quite a bit where the PVC pipe is supported maybe every 10' or so, the pipe will sag in the middle creating a trap, if it is just one dip, then having a vent after the intentional trap will resolve that. Often times there will be multiple sags on a longer horizontal runs creating a vacuum lock. You can blow all the water out of the line and eventually it will fill back up, just a thought.

 

Google the installation instructions for your model and when the tech comes back out have them remove the service panels from the coil and verify each step was taken in converting it to downflow. I keep coming back to how you state the air on the leaking side is significantly warmer. Take pictures, and verify that the drain line is connected to the primary drain outlet and not the secondary drain outlet. Did anyone check that its level?

 

Was told the coil was level when installed, though do not know for sure.. This is the second one for the unit. This one was also cleaned prior to being installed.
Converted to Downflow - will have to follow up on that
Primary vs. Secondary Drain - I only see one drain outlet coming from the air handler. Where would I find a second drain outlet? Where would it be located?
PVC Pipe is only 2 weeks old so not sure there would be any sagging. There is a vent on the second T after the P-trap. I think the picture I posted shows this.
Am using a different company now since install company was not a lot of help.

 

Here is an update.
Trane factory expert came out to see what was happening with the coil.
Took coil out and reviewed everything.
Seems conclusion may be that it is condensation within the air handler causing dripping, though I feel it is excessive dripping.
They still want me to see how bad over next few days due to higher humidity.
Everything else according to contractor and expert is fine and air flow is supposedly right on for cooling.

Still not sure if it is condensation since only seeing dripping on left side of blower compartment. If it was condensation, I think I would see it on both sides since airflow going over the coil is even, per expert and contractor. (I am going to test the airflow myself over the coil with a anemometer since I can remove 4 inch filter and test over coming into coil.)
Trane has made all their blowers 11x8 and am wondering if that could be part of the issue since the squirrel cage is so big for the 2.5 ton size unit and it is all metal causing more airflow to be pulled over smaller space of coils and metal cools from coil.

Also, told that the run cycles seem to be good. We also do not have high humidity though the next few days humidity will be high so will see.

Not sure next steps with this air handler outside of maybe a new coil?? May have another option per Trane, but will wait and see.

This has been quite a experience the past 1.5 years with Trane equipment.

 

Not sure if I understand. You have water dripping off the coil slab or water dripping off the drain pan. These are two very different issues with different causes. From the run times you posted I wonder if the system is over sized. you said that one side of the coil, the side that drips is warmer than the other. I have seen system low on refrigerant do this. Yours has a TXV so it may be possible that the TXV isn't feeding all distributor tube evenly causing hot spots which will cause a line of water drops to form as the surface tension of the coil changes where the coil is warmer.

 

What size TEM6 air handler and what size (or model) outdoor unit do you have? The 048 and 060 size have an N coil while the smaller sizes have an A coil. The down flow coil conversion procedure is slightly different for each. Here's a link to the installation instructions:

https://www.trane.com/content/dam/T...s/equipment/unitary/split-systems/Small Splits/Air Handlers/18-GF74D1-1F-EN.pdf

You state that the air flow is okay, but haven't given the total external static pressure. That's is the only way to confirm that it's correct.

We had a Bosch system that we installed last year that was doing the exact same thing. We all missed the cause of it because we ASSUMED that the airflow was correct because of the dip switch settings. It was too high and once that was corrected, the problem was solved.

If your tech has not measured and confirmed the TESP with an accurate manometer, then you have no assurance that the airflow is correct and that is most likely your problem.

 

BNME8EZ

Thank you for the reply.
It is sized properly, but we have had 3 control modules in this system and all 3 programmed for higher tonnage that 2.5 tons, which is what we have and all 3 had different airflows for the same setting.
(Earlier this year I posted about my troubles with air flow and it was verified that modules were not programmed correctly)
Refrigerant was tested and verified at normal levels.

I would have to ask about the TXV possible issue.

How would one know if the TXV is not distributing evenly through the tubes