HVAC-Talk: Heating, Air & Refrigeration Discussion banner

Repeating Knocking Noise coming from outside unit (Dozens of units affected)

9.8K views 50 replies 13 participants last post by  RunawayTrane  
#1 ·
Our entire neighborhood has the exact same issue: A constant hammering/knocking from the unit outside. This only occurs during the fall/spring months, when switching between Heat and AC (from what I've experienced), or when the unit turns off. Some folks claim it lasts for 5 minutes, I personally have only had it last for 2-4 minutes, sometimes shorter.

Neighborhood:

-Constructed between 2018-2020, North Carolina.

-Single Family Homes, One or two stories.

The HVAC company that performed the installation is not the best, poorly organized, and unable to pinpoint a common cause across all the units. I was told it was the TXV (they're coming Monday to replace, they've already replaced the compressor itself). Others have been told that the filter drier needs to be moved outside, while others told it was unlevel pads, loose screws, etc.

Air Handler (attic): Trane TEM6A0C36H31SBA, 1/2 HP Motor, Mfg Date 1/2019.

Outside Unit: Trane XR 4TWR5030H1000AA, Mfg Date 5/2019

Any advice would be amazing. We have a community with dozen of folks completely stumped.

Videos w/ Sound: Unfortunately I'm not able to post them here, but would happy to share via message.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Some feedback that I've received so far is that the TXV may not be properly oriented as described here.

Anyone have experience with this issue?

View attachment 820914
Thinking that figure you sent is for for a field install TXV, such as a Air Handler having a piston metering device, or replacing a existing TXV believe the TEM6 has a factory TXV installed at the factory. If your referencing a Air Handler.

Hopefully you registered your system initially as if never registered your manufacturers warranty of 10/10 compressor and parts probably will revert to a 5/5

Probably have the Installing Contractor have someone from Trane Technical Rep. come out, if the Contractor did not do that already. May want to pay attention to see if this does this after system satisfies ( pressures equalizing ) or during defrost, etc.

Ask if these OD units have quiet shift technology as an option built into the unit, if so are they set for quiet shift defrost?
 
Save
#9 ·
Won't open for me.

We have had some txvs making knocking noise due to liquid migration, not much go do about it, beyond install aftermarket accessories, such as a liquid line solnoid valve.
 
Save
#7 · (Edited)
Why not stick a meaty flat tip screwdriver on each copper line of the lineset by the outdoor unit, then by the Air Handler and put your ear on the handle side to pinpoint the noise. Your video is all over the place, may want to listen closely if it’s coming from the OD unit, you can place your ear and hand on it at different locations to see if you can isolate the noise or feel for a pulsation. Try doing that to the Air Handler section also. If it only does it after shutdown maybe something with the refrigerant partial equalation. May not get complete equation due to having a TXV system?

Older install guide 2011 could not find newer, certainly this guide could still be current.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...-content/uploads/2011/12/XR15-Installation.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0txiQYaKVFQy8_pe7bKJrd

Discusses lineset length and vertical elevation not to exceed. How to hang linesets. Elevation of OD unit off ground if in snow belt state.

1st page reads :

Note: The manufacturer recommends installing only approved matched indoor and outdoor systems. All of the manufacture’s split systems are A.H.R.I. rated only with TXV/EEV indoor systems. Some of the benefits of installing approved matched indoor and outdoor split systems are maximum efficiency, optimum performance and the best overall system reliability.

Not that this should affect operation? But your system is not a AHRI match, shows the OD unit AHRI match to use a 3 ton OD unit.
 
Save
#8 ·
I found a drain line in a ceiling once making a popping noise similar to that once. When the washer was being used and it would drain the warm/hot water the PVC pipe that it went through would heat up and expand against the wood that it went through (It was a tight hole) making the noise. I had to remove the pipe enlarge the hole and put back together. Now no noise.

So my thought is the liquid line is laying up against a piece of wood and causing this.
 
#11 ·
Sounds like liquid migration to me.
But I've never heard it THAT loud.
 
Save
#13 ·
How about the condensate drain, where is that?

Maybe there is a dry trap that is allowing air through it or whatever it may be connected to.

How long does it last and what specifically is working/happening when it makes this noise?
 
Save
#21 ·
Just a quick reminder that this is happening across at least a dozen+ homes in our neighborhood (just a sampling of those that have reported it, there may be more that haven't said anything.

It's typically in the fall/spring when the weather is fluctuating between warm/cool and always occurs when the unit shuts off. This is pretty much the consensus across all the home owners (Regarding occurrence).

It can last for 30 seconds at the shortest, and up to 3-5 minutes at some of the longest. It starts loud/strong, then quickly speeds up and fades out at the same time.

The condensation pipe is on the side of the house and it doesn't appear to be clogged.
 
#14 ·
My earlier post mentioned possibly a check valve if you have a heat pump. But I wasn't thinking the compressor. Some scroll compressors were made without internal check valves, which means they rotated in reverse after being de-energized. I'm under the impression that all scrolls now have internal check valves to prevent that reverse rotation. Just thinking out loud here.

I've heard solenoids make a similar noise, but I doubt there are any solenoids in any of the units in question.


Our entire neighborhood has the exact same issue: A constant hammering/knocking from the unit outside. This only occurs during the fall/spring months, when switching between Heat and AC (from what I've experienced), or when the unit turns off. Some folks claim it lasts for 5 minutes, I personally have only had it last for 2-4 minutes, sometimes shorter.

Neighborhood:

-Constructed between 2018-2020, North Carolina.

-Single Family Homes, One or two stories.

The HVAC company that performed the installation is not the best, poorly organized, and unable to pinpoint a common cause across all the units. I was told it was the TXV (they're coming Monday to replace, they've already replaced the compressor itself). Others have been told that the filter drier needs to be moved outside, while others told it was unlevel pads, loose screws, etc.

Air Handler (attic): Trane TEM6A0C36H31SBA, 1/2 HP Motor, Mfg Date 1/2019.

Outside Unit: Trane XR 4TWR5030H1000AA, Mfg Date 5/2019

Any advice would be amazing. We have a community with dozen of folks completely stumped.

Videos w/ Sound: Unfortunately I'm not able to post them here, but would happy to share via message.
 
Save
#19 ·
Pinpointing the location of the sound will be the key, but this is a possibility.

I have had check valves in the compressors fail, so don't just rely on the fact it has a check valve to eliminate that as a possibility.
 
Save
#15 ·
Is the unit even running? I hear nothing that sounds like anything is running?
 
Save
#22 ·
Check valves.

That doesn't mean to check the valves, "check valve" is the name of a particular type of component in the system. Sometimes they are built into another valve called a thermostatic expansion valve.

Come to think of it, even a metering device called an 'orifice' can have a check valve built into it.
 
Save
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
Just went into the attic and snapped some pictures to see if I can see the TEV/TXV. I wasn't able to get access to see the front of the coil. I don't fully understand the installation instructions shown below.

Installer instructions: Google Trane TEM6A0C36 then click the first link (can't post the link) (start on page 23 for the coil orientation).

View attachment 820989


Is the coil installed properly to ensure the TXV/TEV is properly oriented?
 

Attachments

#25 ·
The TXV is behind the 3/8” OD copper liquid line panel. May see it by sticking your head in by blower section. What is the yellow mass in the condensate drain line ( 2nd photo down ) you can also try capping that vertical vent pipe on the drain line with paper towel/rag for test purposes, to see if it makes the noise. It’s not like your using the drain line during heat mode. Then check by drain line outlet also for noise.
 
Save
#26 ·
The TXV is behind the 3/8” OD copper liquid line panel. May see it by sticking your head in by blower section. What is the yellow mass in the condensate drain line ( 2nd photo down ) you can also try capping that vertical vent pipe on the drain line with paper towel/rag for test purposes, to see if it makes the noise. It’s not like your using the drain line during heat mode.
Can still get condensate during defrost cycles.
 
#28 ·
Why is there so much silicone on the AH panels? Have they not heard of Thumb Gum?
That noise sounds too rapid to be condensate dripping. Condensate wouldn't be dripping on unit start up.
 
Save
#29 ·
Check valve and/or possibly air

Also could be more noticeable because of the way they secured the refrigerant lines since all the houses in the neighborhood are doing it.

You could try a full recovery of refrigerent, replace filter drier, and proper evacuation. If that doesn't solve it, replace TXVs and/or check valves.

The older units used check valves. The newer units may have the check valves built in the TXV


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#31 ·
Are they replacing both TXVs?

If they are only replacing the indoor TXV, they may just "pump the unit down" which would store the refrigerant in the outdoor unit.

This would not be a full recovery of refrigerent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#34 ·
Has anyone contacted trane yet?
Multiple units, exact same problem.
Sounds like an installation design issue.
 
Save
#35 · (Edited)
Have them change the drier if it’s in the liquid line of the lineset, or if there even is a field installed drier. If it’s ( drier ) factory installed at the OD unit and they are changing both metering devices then they should replace factory drier. What’s the total length of lineset run and elevation as Trane install guide says maximum 60’ run of proper sized lineset and a certain height elevation, after that long lineset application apply.

Page three from post 7 gave you the install guidelines, all the does and don’t. Filled with a bunch of info.
 
Save
#38 ·
Just measured and the lineset is roughly 35' with about 10-12' feet drop (included in that #) from the attic to the outside unit.

Look at the last picture from post #24 - the only drier is shown on the right and appears like it was field installed (only an assumption, I really have no idea).
 
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.