bump?

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That's not the problem. The problem is worn bearings. Lifting the housing makes it look like a loose case, but in reality the bearings are loose. Good bearings are OK even with a bad housing because they are able to rotate out of line due to their shape and mounting.

 

You'll have to replace the whole unit Tyler.

 

Why is it a rip off? It's probably 10+ years old.

 

"Sealed" bearing loose their lubricant over time from the heat, if there is grinding replace the motor if it's squeaking or squealing sometimes for a temporary solution zoom spout oil will get you in the right place to lube the motor shaft and stop the noise. The motor will still need replaced in the near future.

 

Oil What. You can’t get near the bearings!

 

There is one right on the end of the motor and if you get some on the shaft pushing twords the motor and pushing into the wheel housing it will often stop the noise. The zoom spout is small enough to fit in through the motor vents to get some on the shaft there as well and it'll creep it's way along the shaft.

It's a temporary solution to noise but replacement should still be considered. I do it often for elderly clients that can't afford to replace but want a good night's sleep and I make sure they know to set some money aside for the inevitable.

 

Any oil after the fact might give you a day.

 

The areas in the pics are not "fixable."

The motors are so designed to satisfy the cost limitations of the units in which they are used. If Fasco were to tell the Chinese mfg co that they want them to build an inducer that will last for 30 years and have no looseness, and maybe a couple of lube ports, those crafty guys would be happy to do so.

Instead, they ask them to build an inducer that will typically last 7 to 10 years, and not be serviceable or repairable.

That's just the way it is.

 

Ditto with everyone else. Just change the assembly and be done. Get the Rheem OEM for that unit you're workin on, I have had some trouble with the aftermarket type. The Packard type sticks out so far it rubs against the top panel.

 

We had a very old refrigeration unit that had a motor with Sealed Bearings, where the shaft had locked up. We had the motor ordered, but it was going to take 2 days to freight it in.

The Customer begged me, to see if there was anything that I could do, ... "Even Temporarily", cuz' it was a Holiday.

I took the motor, & drilled in to the areas where I thought that the bearings would be located, & shot quite a bit of oil in to it, with the Zoom spout.

The Shaft after several minutes Freed up! I then, put some plugs in the holes, & re-installed it, with a 120V fuse link on the hot side...... It Worked!

When the new motor came in, the Old Geezer, from "Germany" tried to talk me out of installing the new motor. SMH.

 

While the motor probably is wearing some, I've fixed many, MANY drafters with this problem so the customer could go a number of years yet by putting a 4" hose clamp around the motor housing right next to the aluminum guard and tighten 'er up. Works like a charm.

 

that sounds like a good idea .... may try that one day ....

 

Thats cheating....

 

the motor is fine, it's just loose because of the garbage design. i circled the metal flaps in the photos. is there a specific tool to tighten those flaps? screwdriver won't work and it's a rip off to replace this motor.

excessive end play due to the clips being lose ? push the motor housing towards the inducer assembly and the noise goes away ?

I didnt see a way to tighten those clips, what I have done, to several motors, is used the blunt end of my screwdriver and EVENLY tapped around the outside end plate towards the inner part of the motor until the noise goes away ........

 

I've had a couple I've been able to put a flathead in the indentions and smack it (not very hard) with vicegrips and it tightened down and stopped rattling.

Other than replace it, there's not much you can do.