Duct Cleaning Accesories-Whips and Balls and Hose, OH MY

[nchvac]

Sounds a little kinky to me.
Seriously guys, I have purchased the HEPA style duct cleaning machine with a B&G fogger, and am lost as to what else I need. I have found some stores online, but there is no direction as to what accesories I need or what is best. I am going to do residential and light commercial. Lots of flex duct in my market. What accesories do I need to be looking at, who is the best and most economical supplier, and what sprays should I buy for this fogger?
Thanks

[jason3kgt]

I'll be getting into duct cleaning soon also, so keep this updated as to what you find out please.

[nchvac]

Trouble is that no one is posting.

[drk]

http://www.abatement.com/air-duct/du...-power-rod.htm
Reverse AIRE-SWEEP® Assembly: C320K (25’) & C335K (35’)
Forward AIRE-SWEEP® Assembly: C310K
http://www.abatement.com/air-duct/aire-sweep185gh.htm


Just a start

[Premier Pacific]

Just make sure you have a good air compressor and a Viper II kit
I get most of my stuff at http://www.ductcleanersupply.com/
I use an electric craftsman professional oil filled compressor (The oil free ones are to noisy) and the Abatement Technologies Air Sweep gas compressor for heavy duty commercial jobs.
I like the viper II because it comes with just about everything you need.. Even stuff to clean dryer vent

[nchvac]

Just make sure you have a good air compressor and a Viper II kit
I get most of my stuff at http://www.ductcleanersupply.com/
I use an electric craftsman professional oil filled compressor (The oil free ones are to noisy) and the Abatement Technologies Air Sweep gas compressor for heavy duty commercial jobs.
I like the viper II because it comes with just about everything you need.. Even stuff to clean dryer vent

What model is your craftsman compressor? Do you happen to know the cfm/psi rating, and what pressure you run it at?

[Premier Pacific]

Here is the link http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1305843922416

[nchvac]

What pressure are you running your whips at? Are you using brushes?

[options]

I prefer pneumatic cleaning tools and have yet to find a brush system that works, but please note you need a GOOD compressor. You are wasting your money if you buy junk and trust me you aren't going to find a good compressor at the mall or local building supply!

My truck mounted Champion compressor came factory set at 220psi, but on the advice of a compressor tech I have since reduced that to 200psi. It has a constant working pressure of app. 160psi. The two best pneumatic cleaning systems are the Viper and Scorpion rod systems. They both use the same fittings and you can mix and match their tools to suit your needs.

My main vac is a Heat Seal Compact Truck Mount. I also have the Nikro EC-5000 and the General 20HP, but I never use either of the 2 portables unless I can't get my truck close enough.

[options]

For flex duct, I prefer one or more passes with Heat Seal's low pressure 28" whip. Unless the flex is in very bad shape to begin with, this whip will do a thorough job of cleaning with damaging the duct in any way. I also normally run a forward (or reverse) air sweep thru before and after using the whip. Duct Cleaners Supply also has a new whip out for use in flex duct, but I have not tried it yet.

[options]

I don't recommend sanitizing unless there is specific need for it. Even then, mold will only grow where unwanted moisture is present and all of the sanitizing in the world won't prevent its recurrence until the moisture problem is corrected.

[nchvac]

I have looked at the contractor type compressors that are gas powered and have the two smaller tanks. From what I am understanding the 2 tanks keep a steady pressure. From what I am gathering, a person really needs a gas powered compressor.
Are these statements accurate?

[options]

Gas is a must and if you live in a cold climate do yourself a favor and buy one with electric start. I've heard several good things about the Eaton Compressors and have one of their pumps for a spare, but I've never used it.

I like cleaning with a steady working pressure between 140 and 160 psi. My first vac came with an Abatement twin tank. If memory serves me it had a working pressure of 90psi and I was always waiting for it to catch up.

I bought a 200psi Dewalt 110v electric portable on a 20 gallon tank for a hi-rise job a few years ago. Works great to inflate tires, but takes forever to fill the tank and wouldn't keep up with my tools. Thankfully I also bought a brush system for that job and while not much better I was able to clean the ducts with it and the Nikro elec. port. vac.

[scottinomaha]

I have been using the Rotobrush for a while now to fantastic results I have a video camera attached to it so I see inside the ducts real time has served me real well. As far as fogging the air ducts it has its uses your brushes and or air systems will get particulate out but the possibility of viruses and more still existing in the ducts is there and fogging will be effective but its only effective at the time of use not for days after so keep that in mind long term UV air purification is the best bet plus good up sell.

[drk]

Fogging is ineffective for HVAC systems. There not enough chemical. Go with an airless sprayer will put more chemical where it is needed. UV lights will do nothing to kill mold and viruses blowing in the duct so don't waste your time on them.

[scottinomaha]

Fogging is ineffective for HVAC systems. There not enough chemical. Go with an airless sprayer will put more chemical where it is needed. UV lights will do nothing to kill mold and viruses blowing in the duct so don't waste your time on them.

Not to start something but your not correct. Fogging is a temp method that is effective for an hour, so whats there at the time is affected. Study after study has shown that a UV light that puts out 256 nm is effective with constant blower operation at limiting ppm counts, most UV lights out there don't so do your research and find the ones that do. Ultravation products are one that come to mind that do.

[drk]

I think bbj is effective for around 60 days an hour is nothing. When foster 40 80 was EPA certain for HVAC systems it had up to a 160 day kill time. I'd love to see this info u have on uv. I know of nobody that will state that uv is effective in the air stream using one light. 10 feet of light I might agree with u

[nchvac]

I think bbj is effective for around 60 days an hour is nothing. When foster 40 80 was EPA certain for HVAC systems it had up to a 160 day kill time. I'd love to see this info u have on uv. I know of nobody that will state that uv is effective in the air stream using one light. 10 feet of light I might agree with u

So what should be used to kill the crap in ductwork?

[options]

Unless you live in an area with consistently high humidity, mold should not be present in the duct work. If it is there has to be a moisture problem somewhere. That may be an improperly sized system, poor design, external water source, leak or ? if left uncorrected all of the sanitizing in the world won't prevent its recurrence.

BBJ claims their microbiocide will inhibit mold growth for up to 6 months by preventing reproduction, but its the up to part that concerns me!

[drk]

Bbj is the most widely used chemical. I can find at least some mold in 70% of the units I look in. 10% are bad.