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Thread: Southbend convection oven issue

  1. #1
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    Southbend convection oven issue

    I'm working on a Southbend model GS/15SC convection oven that will light and heat up sometimes. Sometimes it has to be cycled of at either thermostat or on/off switch to light. This happens at startup as well as when thermostat satisfies. The unit has a new thermostat control board, temperature sensor, ignition control and ignitor. Any help please, it's becoming a real mystery.

  2. #2
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    is the ground pin broke off the plug end ...
    Tell your Cat I said "Psst Psst Psst"

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  4. #3
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    Along with the ground issues, I've had failing capacitors on convection ovens go intermittent.
    And there just aren't enough hours in a day to stand there and wait for the bugger to fault.

  5. #4
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    Pilot flame size ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Restaurant mech View Post
    Along with the ground issues, I've had failing capacitors on convection ovens go intermittent.
    And there just aren't enough hours in a day to stand there and wait for the bugger to fault.
    I hate babysitting Ice Makers
    Tell your Cat I said "Psst Psst Psst"

  7. #6
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    I will check on the ground, thanks. As far as pilot flame when it lights, pilot and main burner flame are fine.

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    Is the pilot flame drifting off the sensor ?

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoB69 View Post
    I'm working on a Southbend model GS/15SC convection oven that will light and heat up sometimes. Sometimes it has to be cycled of at either thermostat or on/off switch to light. This happens at startup as well as when thermostat satisfies. The unit has a new thermostat control board, temperature sensor, ignition control and ignitor. Any help please, it's becoming a real mystery.
    So you replaced all those parts? For what reason? Are you completely refurbishing this oven? If so, then you should replace a bevy of other parts also...just to be sure.

    If NOT, and all you're doing is changing parts to fix "A PROBLEM", then the cost for all those parts you have replaced ($four figures) likely surpasses the cost of calling a qualified technician to repair it in the first place.

    By the way: You said you checked the pilot flame. Well...that oven doesn't HAVE a pilot.

    Here's some questions you need to answer:
    • What did you find during your initial, thorough visual inspection of the in-shot burners, associated components and wiring?
    • What gas pressures did you read coming in and leaving the gas valve?
    • Is the ignition module being energized upon each and every call for heat?
    • What are the diagnostic LEDs telling you on that new ignition module?
    • When the in-shot burners lights, does the initial right-hand burner flames properly cascade across all other burners and completely over far left burner?
    • If so, then what flame current did you read?


    The answers you get from my questions above will likely lead you to find the one single thing that was causing your problem the whole time.
    So there's no need to post any answers to those questions. Since this is NOT a DIY forum, I've probably said too much as it is.

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  11. #9
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    You say this happens sometimes, these ovens are super sensitive to air flow entering the combustion area, the front panel needs to be in place correctly. The sense rods seldom go bad, however, you should attempt a micro-amp reading, sometimes just rubbing them clean with plumber's cloth will rejuvenate them. Because attempting a light with the front panel off introduces enough air to stop the burner bar from carrying the ignition across, all test attempts will only work blindly. With the natural gas units, check your line manifold, natural is pretty sensitive to load fluctuations of all equipment operating on the cook line, the fryer right next to it may be starving it of enough pressure to maintain it's operation.

  12. #10
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    Checked and ground was present. Found problem to be microswitch on rear solenoid is not opening and closing every time. Thanks for your help.

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  14. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoB69 View Post
    Checked and ground was present. Found problem to be microswitch on rear solenoid is not opening and closing every time. Thanks for your help.
    Oh dam .... so it just needed a little adjusting ?
    Tell your Cat I said "Psst Psst Psst"

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  16. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoB69 View Post
    Checked and ground was present. Found problem to be microswitch on rear solenoid is not opening and closing every time. Thanks for your help.
    WELP. I am happy that you solved it, but I am now confused.

    Categorically speaking, there are only TWO micro-switches in that oven.

    • One for the oven's cooking compartment door
    • And...(unique to Southbend), one for when the control panel is pulled out to serve as a safety SHUT DOWN switch (like gas furnaces have).


    There is NO solenoid in that oven. At ALL.
    However, there is a solenoid VALVE, but one which is most commonly referred to in our trade as a COMBINATION VALVE. This oven uses a standard 24v Honeywell one designed for direct spark (or HSI) ignition (only has MV terminals. No PV terminals).

    I can't think of any...and I mean ANY scenario in that oven where a solenoid (valve) and a micro-switch have anything AT ALL to do with each other.

    I state all this merely for any future-referencers happening through here seeking some eduvacation to solve their own Southbend oven's woes.



    ***********************************************

    FWIW: Most DIYers are generally already finding themselves "standing in left field with a hockey stick while waiting for the kickoff".
    That's a bad start.

    Nonetheless, they wanna save a buck by fixing it themselves, but don't even know any basic troubleshooting practices, much less what a VOM or a manometer is.
    So they throw a bunch of new parts in it, which quickly gets...EXPENSIVE.

    Pursuing a fix by replacing parts is like throwing money into a trashcan... while actually NOT fixing ANYTHING. It also increases the down time of the appliance while needlessly diddle-daddling around installing shiny new parts.

    SO...FOLKS! Save yourself some grief and some money by just CALLING A SERVICE COMPANY.
    You'll get it done quicker and (probably) cheaper....unless you get LUCKY.
    Last edited by ECtofix; 08-16-2022 at 10:13 PM.

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  18. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    Oh dam .... so it just needed a little adjusting ?

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  20. #14
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    Preventative maintenance 😃

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  22. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    Preventative maintenance ��
    He should have a slew of spare parts incase of emergencies ...
    Tell your Cat I said "Psst Psst Psst"

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