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Thread: Pat myself on the back

  1. #1
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    Pat myself on the back

    As we all know I知 currently do two new custom homes. Fired up one today so the flooring can acclimate. So this is 100% my design and layout.

    Static numbers running in cool mode


    I値l take it!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  3. #2
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    R600a is offline Professional Member*/Membership Committee
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    Nice. Much better than the 1.5 ours would be.
    "Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
    I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
    Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
    "It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbhenergy View Post
    As we all know I知 currently do two new custom homes. Fired up one today so the flooring can acclimate. So this is 100% my design and layout.

    Static numbers running in cool mode


    I値l take it!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Nice !
    Would you share the pictures of the set up ?
    I would love to learn how to do the duct work to get that kind of TESP.

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    Im guessing 2 big ass returns to start with
    Tell your Cat I said "Psst Psst Psst"

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    I guess I deleted some of the others from my phone. There is a thread on here in wop I believe with a few more. This was obviously the first day we were there back in like October or something (yes very very slow job)

    Return drop is way to big btw at 20x25.

    So most of your static pressure is gonna come within 5 of your unit. At the the very top T, I have turning vanes. That takes the fitting from a TEL of 120 to 20. I don稚 know why I didn稚 do radius I really should have radius is more attractive.

    Next you see the spacer between the coil and furnace. Picked that up from a guy here. It allows a small amount of space for the turbulent air that just came out of the blower time to straighten out. That helps shave a pinch of static I知 told.

    Next you see the spacer under the furnace. That allows a full 20x25 filter to be installed AND the furnace pulls from the side and bottom. So the fan is getting full airflow. On a 2 or 3 ton system carrier states you can do just a side return but why not if you have the space.

    Next is 5 filter. 1 has massive static pressure.

    Return drop is a radius bend into the filter. If that fitting is a 90* it =45. A radius or turning vanes makes it 10.

    Outside of that my trunk where it turns, is all radius no 90
    My takeoffs are not high performance I admit that. They are either a standard sq-rd top take off or a standard round tap collar.
    The entire job is hard metal pipe except 6 of one run cause the plumber screwed me over.
    There is one 14 return for 3 beds and a hall and a 12 return for the master and other bed.

    The biggest advantage manual j with proper size equipment

    I値l try and get more pics next time I知 there


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  10. #6
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    Very well done. Do you make your duct?

  11. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbhenergy View Post


    I guess I deleted some of the others from my phone. There is a thread on here in wop I believe with a few more. This was obviously the first day we were there back in like October or something (yes very very slow job)

    Return drop is way to big btw at 20x25.

    So most of your static pressure is gonna come within 5 of your unit. At the the very top T, I have turning vanes. That takes the fitting from a TEL of 120 to 20. I don稚 know why I didn稚 do radius I really should have radius is more attractive.

    Next you see the spacer between the coil and furnace. Picked that up from a guy here. It allows a small amount of space for the turbulent air that just came out of the blower time to straighten out. That helps shave a pinch of static I知 told.

    Next you see the spacer under the furnace. That allows a full 20x25 filter to be installed AND the furnace pulls from the side and bottom. So the fan is getting full airflow. On a 2 or 3 ton system carrier states you can do just a side return but why not if you have the space.

    Next is 5 filter. 1 has massive static pressure.

    Return drop is a radius bend into the filter. If that fitting is a 90* it =45. A radius or turning vanes makes it 10.

    Outside of that my trunk where it turns, is all radius no 90
    My takeoffs are not high performance I admit that. They are either a standard sq-rd top take off or a standard round tap collar.
    The entire job is hard metal pipe except 6 of one run cause the plumber screwed me over.
    There is one 14 return for 3 beds and a hall and a 12 return for the master and other bed.

    The biggest advantage manual j with proper size equipment

    I値l try and get more pics next time I知 there


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for taking your time with the picture and writeups.
    In a basement setup, I often run into height issue.
    After putting in the furnace and A-coil, I don't have much room left for a riser and spacer. I guess a N coil would help gain a few inches.
    I'd also need room for a required canvas connector.

  12. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scoobie View Post
    Very well done. Do you make your duct?
    Heavens no.. I知 lost when it comes to that. I just draw a chicken scratch sketch and have a small shop make it.

    But. It痴 a family owned and run shop of three brothers, and I asked if gen 3 would be moving in soon. They gave a fast and firm hard no. So maybe a sheet metal shop is in my future.

    That sure would piss a lot of companies off.


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  14. #9
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    You do great work! I do have 1 question that drives me up the wall. Why not use something larger then 20x25? Why not use return filter grilles? You could build a custom box or get a larger filter or even 2 grilles. Im sure customers dont want a huge grille but hey... its efficient.

    What are you finding on manual J calc as in sizing, are you finding previous equipment generally oversized? Do you follow manual J to a tee?

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    Ok, dumb question time.

    How do you fasten the fittings that are flanged in to the furnace and coil cabinet? I flange fittings in at times if I have the space to put a second fitting in so I can get to the screws to put them in or take them out later. Not seeing how you would get to them in these pictures.

    Also I tend to get concerned putting screws in to the bottom of a coil cabinet. Usually there is space between the cabinet and drain pan but sometimes it seems a bit to close.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tekjunkie View Post
    You do great work! I do have 1 question that drives me up the wall. Why not use something larger then 20x25? Why not use return filter grilles? You could build a custom box or get a larger filter or even 2 grilles. Im sure customers dont want a huge grille but hey... its efficient.

    What are you finding on manual J calc as in sizing, are you finding previous equipment generally oversized? Do you follow manual J to a tee?
    It痴 a 2 ton system. 20x25x5 is way more than enough filter. It痴 11 ceilings, I don稚 see mr homeowner getting a 10 ladder out to change filters.

    Yes 90% of all systems I see are oversized.

    Not sure what following manual j to a t means?


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  18. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BNME8EZ View Post
    Ok, dumb question time.

    How do you fasten the fittings that are flanged in to the furnace and coil cabinet? I flange fittings in at times if I have the space to put a second fitting in so I can get to the screws to put them in or take them out later. Not seeing how you would get to them in these pictures.

    Also I tend to get concerned putting screws in to the bottom of a coil cabinet. Usually there is space between the cabinet and drain pan but sometimes it seems a bit to close.
    The spacer between is what I assume your referring to?
    In this specific case, as is the case with most my installs in this configuration, that piece is only glued together with silicone.

    Like on this job? I built what you see here one day and glued it together and let it set 24 hr before adding anything else.


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  19. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbhenergy View Post
    It’s a 2 ton system. 20x25x5 is way more than enough filter. It’s 11’ ceilings, I don’t see mr homeowner getting a 10’ ladder out to change filters.

    Yes 90% of all systems I see are oversized.

    Not sure what following manual j to a t means?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "following manual J to a tee" meaning if it spits out 2 tons do you do 2 tons? I see a lot of people still wanting to add 1/2 ton for a HP even thought manual J is already 10-20% oversided from what I understand.

    20x25x5 for 2 tons sounds great.

    How far are most of your systems oversized? grossly or only by 1/2 ton or so? Im super curious about this because around here NO ONE knows what a manual J is and if they do they do it incorrectly.

  20. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbhenergy View Post
    The spacer between is what I assume your referring to?
    In this specific case, as is the case with most my installs in this configuration, that piece is only glued together with silicone.

    Like on this job? I built what you see here one day and glued it together and let it set 24 hr before adding anything else.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Never thought about silicone and yeah, you would have to let that set up.

    When I am doing a change out I try to get it up and running the same day I pull out the old. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Usually in cold weather I can get the heat back on in a day, A/C is a bit tougher.

    Still good to know. One more thing to add to the knowledge center.

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  22. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BNME8EZ View Post
    Never thought about silicone and yeah, you would have to let that set up.

    When I am doing a change out I try to get it up and running the same day I pull out the old. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Usually in cold weather I can get the heat back on in a day, A/C is a bit tougher.

    Still good to know. One more thing to add to the knowledge center.
    Agree on change out. This one here was a luxury of unlimited time lol.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Tekjunkie View Post
    "following manual J to a tee" meaning if it spits out 2 tons do you do 2 tons? I see a lot of people still wanting to add 1/2 ton for a HP even thought manual J is already 10-20% oversided from what I understand.

    20x25x5 for 2 tons sounds great.

    How far are most of your systems oversized? grossly or only by 1/2 ton or so? Im super curious about this because around here NO ONE knows what a manual J is and if they do they do it incorrectly.
    If it says 2 tons I do 2.

    Most are 1/2 to 1 ton to big. I have ripped a 5 out and put a 2.5 back in though.


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  25. #17
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    Few more pics. The pvc drains are temp until homeowner plumber and myself figure out drain situation.



    Radius turns and offsets


    Where I didn稚 have space for a radius throat put vanes in


    This fitting should have been radius. Don稚 know what I was doing that day. It痴 fine performance wise with the vanes but radius would have looked soooooooooo much better



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