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Thread: Turbo Blower

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbhenergy View Post
    Couple things.

    4. Your duct work works off pressure. Magically find a bigger motor to move more air and all your going to do is create more pressure in that duct. To the point where the blower won’t be able to move anything more because it is not strong enough to work against that pressure.

    5. Expect the motor to die in 2-4 years. Had a job the duct pressure was 1.3 and it’s supposed to be .5. After 4 motors in 8 years they finally caught on and had it fixed properly.

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    There must be a balance of motor rpm / hp and blower wheel blade angles to avoid the high pressure stall?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by toofreakinghot View Post
    I would like to put a higher rpm motor on, but if required could dial it down if needed using say the red wire..

    The ducting in this house is bigger than a 747 pressurization system that has to pressurize an aluminum tube with 300 passengers. There is no way on earth this cannot take more flow. The only limiting factor being the fan to produce it.
    If the ducts were bulging like balloons I could understand but I would need a jet engine for that!
    But is it run properly? Air velocity decreases every inch of the run. The longer the run, the duct work needs to decrease in size to keep the velocity up. If you had 2 runs of duct run side by side 100' each and had the same size blower for each. One run of duct was 8" for the entire 100' run. The 2nd run started at 8", reduced to 6" after 33ft and then reduced to 4" after 66ft. The velocity exiting the 4" duct would be greater than that of the 8" duct.
    Officially, Down for the count

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  4. #23
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    sooooo you're an engineer?

    do you have a setback on the thermostat???? when you go to work the stat runs up to 75 and when you come home you are wanting it to be 70???

    some of you're comments lead me to believe you have some knowledge so let me ASSuMe... you mentioned a 747 so lets run with that okay. How many engineering hours do you think went into the design of the air delivery system? I dont have a clue really. But could it be 100 hours? "lets try this design it works in the computer model. perfect, get in field and there is a light bulb in the way. lets start over." etc etc. Something tells me an aircraft is engineered to the number of stitches on the seat cushions.

    now tell me, how many hours went into the engineering of the duct system of your house? if you said 0, you are correct. it was likely drawn on the extra mcdonalds napkin that was in the lunch bag.

    yes im sure there is something out there that can do as you wish. but it is gonna cost a lot of money to have implemented in your existing system, and it will be very loud. kinda like a 747. you really wanna sleep in the house and every time the ac kicks on it wakes you up from the extreme noise? Ill pass.

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  6. #24
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    Not to mention if the ductwork is not sealed well it could be leaking up to 30 percent of the supplied air out.
    Quote Originally Posted by ksefan View Post
    If the system is designed to cool the house to 75° when it is 100° outside, it might not ever get to 70°. Maybe there is other issues like a loose piece of duct insulation reducing airflow or a weak capacitor. It might not be a bad idea to have the system looked over by a professional.
    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  7. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbhenergy View Post
    do you have a setback on the thermostat???? when you go to work the stat runs up to 75 and when you come home you are wanting it to be 70???
    I don't think that is unreasonable is it? I have always done the same around the world as it makes no sense cost or lifecycle wise to run and cycle the system if Im not home. you do not do that in any other setup, car, hotel, aircraft etc.

    A decent system can always reduce the temp back down in an acceptable time, it is the minimum cost systems that the penny pinching builders are using I suspect is the problem.
    Im just trying to figure out what I can salvage and what I can improve to make the system more than capable rather than barely capable.

  8. #26
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    You’ve been given several reasons why your ideas will not work but you are not listening to the suggestions.

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  10. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    You’ve been given several reasons why your ideas will not work but you are not listening to the suggestions.


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  11. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by toofreakinghot View Post
    I don't think that is unreasonable is it? I have always done the same around the world as it makes no sense cost or lifecycle wise to run and cycle the system if Im not home. you do not do that in any other setup, car, hotel, aircraft etc.

    A decent system can always reduce the temp back down in an acceptable time, it is the minimum cost systems that the penny pinching builders are using I suspect is the problem.
    Im just trying to figure out what I can salvage and what I can improve to make the system more than capable rather than barely capable.
    No, that is not how you should look at it.
    The system isn’t going to pull the house down 5° in 30 minutes when it’s 100° outside. Your going to use all the power you saved with the setback plus some for pull down.
    Plus, you should not expect a consistent temp across 2 floors with a single unzoned system. Without some involved balancing. Just 2 very different environments to deal with.
    As the temperature gets hot, leave the setpoint alone. Let the unit maintain rather then play catch-up during the hottest part of the day.
    “I haven’t failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.” - Thomas Edison

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  12. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    You’ve been given several reasons why your ideas will not work but you are not listening to the suggestions.
    Appreciate all the input.
    Back to the original question.. Is it possible to switch out either the squirrel wheel with more blade area or the motor for a higher rpm without any mods to the electrical or circuitboard?

  13. #30
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    You want more air put in fittings at the plenum with lower equivalent footage.

    I see plenum fittings at 120' EL all the time, replace it with fittings of 10 EL huge difference. also better fittings on the return drop make a huge difference. The amount of air a duct will move is based on TEL (total equivalent length). Dropping a few hundred feet right off the unit increases air flow as it has less restriction, less turbulence.

    Your way will increase operating costs, wear out equipment faster and lower indoor air quality.

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  15. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by toofreakinghot View Post
    Appreciate all the input.
    Back to the original question.. Is it possible to switch out either the squirrel wheel with more blade area or the motor for a higher rpm without any mods to the electrical or circuitboard?
    No
    “I haven’t failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.” - Thomas Edison

    “It’s not whether you get knocked down, it’s whether you get up.” - Vince Lombardi

    "In this house we obey the laws of thermodynamics" - Homer Simpson

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  17. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BNME8EZ View Post
    You want more air put in fittings at the plenum with lower equivalent footage.

    I see plenum fittings at 120' EL all the time, replace it with fittings of 10 EL huge difference. also better fittings on the return drop make a huge difference.
    Where do you recommend to change the fittings? I only really have access in the basement and at the outlet vents themselves as everything else is built into the walls and hardwood floors.

  18. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by toofreakinghot View Post
    Appreciate all the input.
    Back to the original question.. Is it possible to switch out either the squirrel wheel with more blade area or the motor for a higher rpm without any mods to the electrical or circuitboard?
    Sure. Have your service tech install you a 2k constant torque motor, set that bad boy for 2000 cfm.
    Watch it not resolve your issue, and in 2 years expect that motor to be dead from running high static and get ready to pay 2500 for a new motor with inflation adjustments.

    And then come back here and report.


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  20. #34
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    Turbo Blower

    Quote Originally Posted by toofreakinghot View Post
    I don't think that is unreasonable is it? I have always done the same around the world as it makes no sense cost or lifecycle wise to run and cycle the system if Im not home. you do not do that in any other setup, car, hotel, aircraft etc.

    A decent system can always reduce the temp back down in an acceptable time, it is the minimum cost systems that the penny pinching builders are using I suspect is the problem.
    Im just trying to figure out what I can salvage and what I can improve to make the system more than capable rather than barely capable.
    In the heat of the summer no your unit is not designed to do a hot pull down.

    Here is the short version of system size selection:

    In dayton Ohio my outside design temp is 90*. So I use 90* outside temp in my software. So I run the math of the house and it says I need a 3 ton unit. What that means, is at 90* outside temperature, my house will only MAINTAIN my indoor design temp. At 90* oat my system WILL NOT drop the indoor temp.

    If it’s 85* outside I can drop the temp. But anything 90 and over, if the system is designed per standards, it will not drop.

    Sooooo, when the morning news says it is going to be above average temp today, do not set the thermostat to 75. Leave it at 70

    Clear as mud right


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  21. #35
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    The point you're missing on setbacks is the surfaces and surface area within the space. Different materials hold heat longer than others.

  22. #36
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    YOU can do anything you’d like.

  23. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbhenergy View Post
    In the heat of the summer no your unit is not designed to do a hot pull down.

    Here is the short version of system size selection:

    In dayton Ohio my outside design temp is 90*. So I use 90* outside temp in my software. So I run the math of the house and it says I need a 3 ton unit. What that means, is at 90* outside temperature, my house will only MAINTAIN my indoor design temp. At 90* oat my system WILL NOT drop the indoor temp.

    If it’s 85* outside I can drop the temp. But anything 90 and over, if the system is designed per standards, it will not drop.

    Sooooo, when the morning news says it is going to be above average temp today, do not set the thermostat to 75. Leave it at 70

    Clear as mud right


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    So the design is all wrong from the start? Why on earth would anyone want something that could only maintain a temp. How can one ensure that a system is sufficient to reduce as well as maintain? Replace the whole system?

  24. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by toofreakinghot View Post
    Where do you recommend to change the fittings? I only really have access in the basement and at the outlet vents themselves as everything else is built into the walls and hardwood floors.
    Reread the post, it tells you. You are going to need a good duct person to understand what fittings need to go and which can stay. They will be able to better tell where your problem lies than I who have not seen it.

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  26. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by toofreakinghot View Post
    So the design is all wrong from the start? Why on earth would anyone want something that could only maintain a temp. How can one ensure that a system is sufficient to reduce as well as maintain? Replace the whole system?
    Most systems aren’t a throttle. They are fixed speed.
    Why would you want to have something that would give you a 20 minute pull down at 100° OA? It would make the system unlivable when it was 80° out.
    Even 2 stage units only give you 2 options.
    “I haven’t failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.” - Thomas Edison

    “It’s not whether you get knocked down, it’s whether you get up.” - Vince Lombardi

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  27. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by toofreakinghot View Post
    A leaf blower manages to blow a lot through a small tube!
    I would just take out the blower assembly, and mount a leaf blower in there.
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