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Thread: window units increase humidity

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by R600a View Post
    Using some guesses for the elevation 2.12 grains of water per pound of dry air was removed while cooling the air from 73.4f @ 41% humidity to 67f @ 48% humidity. The 48% humidity air is actually drier.
    Thats the reason its called Relative Humidity.

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by R600a View Post
    It's going to be hard for a window unit to remove enough moisture at night with people in the room and the night cooling off. Personally 48% humidity is perfect for me but I understand a person used to the desert would be used to lower.
    I'd recommend a dehumidifier. Even a cheap portable will make a big difference.
    Thanks. I have a portable dehumidifier here at home and can take it with me next trip and try it

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  5. #23
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    Window units have never been known for effective humidity control.
    "Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
    I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
    Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
    "It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.

  6. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer View Post
    Thanks. I have a portable dehumidifier here at home and can take it with me next trip and try it
    I use one in the spring and fall when the ac can't keep the humidity below 55% and it works great.
    "Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
    I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
    Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
    "It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.

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  8. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdean1 View Post
    Your hypothesis is intriguing. Please elaborate on the source of the oxygen and hydrogen that the unit uses to make water. Perhaps this technology could be used in arid regions.
    You have never heard of condensate from an air conditoner?

  9. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by R600a View Post
    I use one in the spring and fall when the ac can't keep the humidity below 55% and it works great.
    I tried one here at our Texas home and found that it produces so much heat that it makes the central AC run more than normal. I figured why run it when I can just run the central AC more. I slowed down the fan speed so it has to run longer to cool the house- in return humidity is lower

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  11. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer View Post
    You have never heard of condensate from an air conditoner?
    Of course. But that isn’t generating MORE moisture. It’s taking moisture out of the air.
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  13. #28
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    Research what relative humidity actually is.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer View Post
    I tried one here at our Texas home and found that it produces so much heat that it makes the central AC run more than normal. I figured why run it when I can just run the central AC more. I slowed down the fan speed so it has to run longer to cool the house- in return humidity is lower
    That's the disadvantage of window unit you can't really make adjustments like that.
    "Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
    I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
    Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
    "It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    Modern window shakers have what's called a slinger fan.
    I remember when I was new to this Trade back in 72' and I was introduced to condenser fan blades w/ slinger rings on them.

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  17. #31
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    Went out to my farm shop- the conditioned part is 25x35' with 10' ceiling. . It has a 10x10' sliding door on the south that doesn't seal good. has about a 7 year old 2.25 ton Fredrich window unit.

    Texas, elevation 750' ASL
    Started at 82 degrees and 54% humidity
    80 degrees 47% humidity
    79 degrees 43% humidity
    77 degrees 39% humidity

    The air in the shop feels nice- like my house with central ac does. The window unit at the vacation home makes that room feel "clammy" no other way to explain it..

    The three new window units that I tried in the bedrooms in both TX and CO all gave the same clammy feeling.. This Fredrich has a drain hole and condensate just pours out- the new unit's don't. I understand they use a slinger fan to increase efficiency but at the same time I think somehow this causes the unit to not remove as much humidity from the room
    I am about ready to drill a drain hole in one of them and see if the humidity in the bedroom decreases. I don't care if the efficiency decreases.

  18. #32
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    Raise the room temperature to lower the relative humidity.

  19. #33
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    So much mis-information!

    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

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  21. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksefan View Post
    Raise the room temperature to lower the relative humidity.
    Why would I want to raise the temperature? The purpose of the AC is to cool the bedroom and remove the humidity. Just like the large unit does in my shop...

  22. #35
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    There are laws of nature
    The sun rises in the East and sets in the West.
    A/C Do NOT add humidity!

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  24. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer View Post
    Why would I want to raise the temperature? The purpose of the AC is to cool the bedroom and remove the humidity. Just like the large unit does in my shop...
    And that is what an ac unit does…

    But RELATIVE humidity is a case of air at a lower temp holds less water, so even though the amount of water that was in the air has been lowered, the RELATIVE humidity has gone up, because the air temp lowered faster than the small surface window unit could remove water.

    So, if you want to lower the RELATIVE humidity in the room, you need to run the ac at a lower speed, so it runs longer, or add heat to the room, to allow the unit to lower both the amount of water, AND the RELATIVE humidity.
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  25. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    Yes all newer ones after DOE made changes.
    Every single window unit I have worked on since the early 80’s has has a slinger built into the fan blade to sling condensate into the condenser coil. The condensate runs into a channel out to the condenser coil, and a temp valve either dumps the excess water out, or allows it to raise up and get caught in the slinger…
    The TRUE highest cost system is the system not installed properly...

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  26. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer View Post
    Went out to my farm shop- the conditioned part is 25x35' with 10' ceiling. . It has a 10x10' sliding door on the south that doesn't seal good. has about a 7 year old 2.25 ton Fredrich window unit.

    Texas, elevation 750' ASL
    Started at 82 degrees and 54% humidity
    80 degrees 47% humidity
    79 degrees 43% humidity
    77 degrees 39% humidity

    The air in the shop feels nice- like my house with central ac does. The window unit at the vacation home makes that room feel "clammy" no other way to explain it..

    The three new window units that I tried in the bedrooms in both TX and CO all gave the same clammy feeling.. This Fredrich has a drain hole and condensate just pours out- the new unit's don't. I understand they use a slinger fan to increase efficiency but at the same time I think somehow this causes the unit to not remove as much humidity from the room
    I am about ready to drill a drain hole in one of them and see if the humidity in the bedroom decreases. I don't care if the efficiency decreases.
    Even though the water isn’t dripping out of the unit, it IS getting dumped outside. Don’t drill a hole, all this will accomplish is raising the power bill, and reducing the amount of cooling the unit can do…

    It actually might make it lower the relative humidity though, by making it run longer, cooling slower, and getting the relative humidity to dip…
    The TRUE highest cost system is the system not installed properly...

    Find a HVAC-Talk Contractor by clicking here

    Click below to BECOME a pro member
    https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdispl...ip-Information

    Do you go to a boat repairman with a sinking boat, and tell him to put in a bigger motor when he tells you to fix the holes?

    I am yourmrfixit

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  28. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by vstech View Post
    Even though the water isnt dripping out of the unit, it IS getting dumped outside. Dont drill a hole, all this will accomplish is raising the power bill, and reducing the amount of cooling the unit can do

    It actually might make it lower the relative humidity though, by making it run longer, cooling slower, and getting the relative humidity to dip
    Or just raise the evaporator coil temperature and make the problem worse or kill the compressor on a hot day.
    "Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
    I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
    Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
    "It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.

  29. #40
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    I have been monitoring the 2 1/4 ton window unit in my shop and it consistently reduces humidity and temp at the same time. I can see 39-40% humidity in that leaky shop.
    I then put the LG 8k unit back in my bedroom window here at home. I tried it last year for two days but pulled it due to the humidity level rising over night. First I sealed around the window unit with 1/2" foam board then tried the unit out. Sure enough the humidity still went higher over night. The next night I went to drill a drain hole in the unit and I found it had a rubber plug that you could remove. Took that out and tried again- same thing. Temp goes down but humidity goes UP... Then for the next two nights I have ran it on DRY mode. Coolest the room will get in that mode is 70 and humidity maxes out around 51-52%.
    I am now convinced that they are doing something different with these new window unit to get them to be more efficient and the downside is humidity control sucks!
    I wonder if they are running the evaporator warmer which wouldn't pull so much moisture from the air? If so maybe this is how they make them more efficient??

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