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I split the strands in half in that case
Additionally it holds the screw for you 😃
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Originally Posted by
VTP99
I split the strands in half in that case
Additionally it holds the screw for you

Oh what a mess.
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
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Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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That was a wire sittin' next to me
Should I grab a better one for a nicer rendition 😂
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Originally Posted by
VTP99
That was a wire sittin' next to me
Should I grab a better one for a nicer rendition

Nope it'd still drive me nuts.
It bothers me enough that I didn't have shrink tubing for mine.
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
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Originally Posted by
btjfitter
Supposedly the jacketing is sweet to them. Made a lot repairing sensors on some 30GT chillers. Hard one to believe but had a squirrel chew through a compressor terminal lid on a Carlyle on one of those chillers. I know its not "by the book" but I had 3 30GTN chillers that I stopped replacing the sensors and just wire nutted them back together. Never had a issue with those connections either. Had one on a roof, maintenance put out traps, only thing is once they caught them, they took back down to the parking lot and let them go. LOL!
That is no joke, something about that gray wire that Carrier uses for sensors, squirrels and rats love it.
I'm with you on the splicing of sensors. I'll run a new one if there's time, and its accessible (like the stupid design for some RBs where you absolutely cannot get the wires through that compartment under the control box) but usually I splice them. Use the white, crimp, dead-end connectors, fill them full of dielectric grease first, then zip ties everything neat so the connectors point up so they don't fill with water and everything doesn't look sloppy AF. Of course people splice that stuff with orange wirenuts, cover them with a whole role of dollar store tape, and wonder why they have constant problems.
I had to splice the EXV wiring on a YVAA, and for that I used a little care, soldered the wiring and shrink tube on everything, figured that deserved a little more consideration.
The great professors of the art are not immune from the malignancy of matter and the eternal cussedness of inanimate objects.
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Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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Originally Posted by
CHAINIK
That is no joke, something about that gray wire that Carrier uses for sensors, squirrels and rats love it.
I'm with you on the splicing of sensors. I'll run a new one if there's time, and its accessible (like the stupid design for some RBs where you absolutely cannot get the wires through that compartment under the control box) but usually I splice them. Use the white, crimp, dead-end connectors, fill them full of dielectric grease first, then zip ties everything neat so the connectors point up so they don't fill with water and everything doesn't look sloppy AF. Of course people splice that stuff with orange wirenuts, cover them with a whole role of dollar store tape, and wonder why they have constant problems.
I had to splice the EXV wiring on a YVAA, and for that I used a little care, soldered the wiring and shrink tube on everything, figured that deserved a little more consideration.
When working technical support for a mfg, customer in Caribbean called saying he was having problems with chill water temp sensors failing, asked how many, hundreds. Asked he send them back for analysis. Got 12 back, one was bad, rest checked good. Common issue all had been cut & spliced with wire nuts within 1-2 of the sensor. 95%+ dew point, copper wires, white powder on al jacket all the way to probe, not illegal powder( did taste test).
Service tech was too lazy to run the attached wiring back into the control panel.
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Do you use sweeping 90's for your copper or regular?
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Originally Posted by
bobby2x4
Do you use sweeping 90's for your copper or regular?
Well, we know what it should be.
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Originally Posted by
bobby2x4
Do you use sweeping 90's for your copper or regular?
I use a tubing bender.
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
-
Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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Originally Posted by
jbhenergy
You put them stupid locking caps on????
Hate those thibgs
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Probably like here if it's new construction or gonna be inspected it required
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by
droopylee95
Probably like here if it's new construction or gonna be inspected it required
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Required here. Meth is a hell of a thing.
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Originally Posted by
TimSenner45
Required here. Meth is a hell of a thing.
Locking cap key with hose & plastic bag with every bag of clean needles would help stop equipment damage.
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Originally Posted by
ehsx
Locking cap key with hose & plastic bag with every bag of clean needles would help stop equipment damage.
It is pretty funny because those guys could care less about some weird looking cap. Political nonsense, but I do it to pass inspection.
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Originally Posted by
R600a
The relay is wired to the high and low pressure safeties as a lockout to prevent cycling on safeties repeatedly. You have to remove the power to reset. The safeties are inside the condenser.

R600a: what is the part # on that relay? Thanks in advance!
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Originally Posted by
steelersfan1
R600a: what is the part # on that relay? Thanks in advance!
I used a 24 volt coil single pole double throw fan relay from an electric air handler or old gas furnace. (AKA 5 pin peanut relay.) Basically whatever I happen to have handy.
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
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Originally Posted by
steelersfan1
R600a: what is the part # on that relay? Thanks in advance!
Most any small relay is going to have higher impedance and draw less current than a larger contactor. As long as that’s the case, almost any relay should work.
The great professors of the art are not immune from the malignancy of matter and the eternal cussedness of inanimate objects.
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Ok,
I wasn't sure if it was similiar to the lock out relays Trane uses on their larger equipment. I'm pretty sure those had high impedance coils on them, but maybe I'm miss remembering that.
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Originally Posted by
steelersfan1
Ok,
I wasn't sure if it was similiar to the lock out relays Trane uses on their larger equipment. I'm pretty sure those had high impedance coils on them, but maybe I'm miss remembering that.

I hear there is a specific lockout relay you can use but basically they just label it for you so it's easier for some people to hook up I prefer to make my brain work and just use a standard cheap peanut relay I already have on the truck.
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.