M12 Hackzall

[pmagorian]

Has anyone used the Milwaukee 12 volt reciprocating saw for roughing in boots and returns? If so how does it do? (I would be using the larger batteries).

We're given a corded Sawzall but I'm a big fan of the 12 volt series and the little guy would be great if it can handle the job.

Thanks for any input

[JayMan7]

I have it and it’s nice because it’s lightweight and one handed but the m18 sawzall is a lot more aggressive and cuts a lot faster. I think there’s also an M18 one handed version.

[channellxbob]

I had the M12 one hand version for a while, and it was just ok, not anything special, except light. I now use the M18 one hand brushless version and it is much more useful. It is a monster at cutting and much, much less vibration than the M12 version. If you can do it, I'd definitely go M18 all the way.

[pmagorian]

Thanks for the replies, that's what I was expecting to hear....just not what I was hoping to hear ha. I never thought about vibration since it's so light, that would get old fast

[Zamoramax]

If its just sheetrock do it. Anything more and naww. Get a fuel 18V.

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[Patech]

I used to use my m18 hackzall for cutting in vents on thick gauge commercial spiral duct. It worked great compared to my coworkers sawzalls. The cutting motion is cleaner. I feel like sawzalls are made for demo and hackzalls are made for cutting materials.


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[ga-hvac-tech]

I used to use my m18 hackzall for cutting in vents on thick gauge commercial spiral duct. It worked great compared to my coworkers sawzalls. The cutting motion is cleaner. I feel like sawzalls are made for demo and hackzalls are made for cutting materials.


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I tend to agree with this...

IMO the M12 is for light work... the M18 is for heavier work...
And a SawZall is for demolition.

I use the M12 for lots of things... it seems to do the job nicely...
If you are cutting a few holes in residential roof decking... or a few holes in metal duct... it works...
If you are doing serious installation work... there is a M18 version of the M12 HackZall... just a little larger all over.

Oh, and do not even consider the cheaper one... get the 'FUEL' one!

[channellxbob]

I've used both 12v and 18v to cut holes in subfloor for vents and registers and I can tell you the 18v is much easier on the ole body to use. One of those Diablo blades and a one handed M18 will really go thru old plank sub floors in old commercial buildings like a hot knife thru butter.

[joemach]

If you get the fuel version of the m12 it is not too bad, much better than the version that is just brushless. If I need to just cut a few 2 x 4 's the non-fuel version works pretty good. I mostly use it for cutting in ceiling diffusers. It is a little smaller to use in the tight attics.

Whichever way you go, spend the extra and get the fuel version. Big difference.

I have not noticed the vibration issue others have mentioned. But I have not tried to cut in floor grills.

[pmagorian]

appreciate the replies fellas, going to go the safe route with the m18 fuel (brushless) version

[R600a]

appreciate the replies fellas, going to go the safe route with the m18 fuel (brushless) version

I have the M12 brushed and it's all the power I ever need. I honestly don't know that I'm going to be buying any M18 tools other than yard equipment.

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[pmagorian]

we do new construction as well, does it hold up to cutting through studs and subfloor and whatnot for all the heat runs and returns?

[R600a]

we do new construction as well, does it hold up to cutting through studs and subfloor and whatnot for all the heat runs and returns?

I don't think I'd want to do anything like that with it but it isn't even the brushless fuel version so upgrading to fuel would be a major improvement from my experience with the other brushless versus non-brushless tools.

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[Restaurant Mech]

I have both. If it's just for cutting boots, the m12 is fine. It's NOT fast, but really 2 minutes vs 45 seconds isn't a big deal.
The m12 lives on my truck because it fits anywhere I need it to. The m18 is GREAT make no mistake. But it's pretty big and doesn't fit most places I need it to.
Now if I'm just an installer, well I'll go m18 every time.
But for what I'm doing, ( plumbing drains, the odd duct mod requiring a bigger boot, or cutting a bigger return through floor plates) the m12 is awesome.

[pmagorian]

I don't think I'd want to do anything like that with it but it isn't even the brushless fuel version so upgrading to fuel would be a major improvement from my experience with the other brushless versus non-brushless tools.

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That's the main reason I'd want it: for cutting out framing and subfloor in between stud spaces the small footprint would be super nice but I may be hoping for too much.

[joemach]

That's the main reason I'd want it: for cutting out framing and subfloor in between stud spaces the small footprint would be super nice but I may be hoping for too much.

Not sure what kind of wood Restaurant Mech is cutting with the M12, but around here there is what I call "Real Wood". Meaning 2X4's that actually measure 2" X 4" and subflooring that is actually 1" thick and cured wood. Don't think the M12 would do much with that.

Many houses here from 20's, 30's & 40's. Many with plaster walls. Need a little extra power on these older homes.

[Zamoramax]

Not sure what kind of wood Restaurant Mech is cutting with the M12, but around here there is what I call "Real Wood". Meaning 2X4's that actually measure 2" X 4" and subflooring that is actually 1" thick and cured wood. Don't think the M12 would do much with that.

Many houses here from 20's, 30's & 40's. Many with plaster walls. Need a little extra power on these older homes.

Yeah. I've chopped a section off a 2x4. That cut must have taken 30 seconds. That was with a new milwaukee 9" fang tip blade. Figured 1 cut was worth the time over getting a circ or the 18v version.

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[Restaurant Mech]

Not sure what kind of wood Restaurant Mech is cutting with the M12, but around here there is what I call "Real Wood". Meaning 2X4's that actually measure 2" X 4" and subflooring that is actually 1" thick and cured wood. Don't think the M12 would do much with that.

Many houses here from 20's, 30's & 40's. Many with plaster walls. Need a little extra power on these older homes.

I work on plenty of old fir built houses. M12 works just fine.
Yes if you want ultimate speed then m18 is the way to go.
But the reality is, m18 is twice as fast. Is 2 minutes vs 1 minute gonna cost you the job?
If it is, then go big or go home. If it's once in a blue moon? That's why the 12volt stays on the truck.
A cat d4 will move the same mountain a d11 will. It just takes longer

[joemach]

I work on plenty of old fir built houses. M12 works just fine.
Yes if you want ultimate speed then m18 is the way to go.
But the reality is, m18 is twice as fast. Is 2 minutes vs 1 minute gonna cost you the job?
If it is, then go big or go home. If it's once in a blue moon? That's why the 12volt stays on the truck.
A cat d4 will move the same mountain a d11 will. It just takes longer

Are you using the M12 fuel version?

I only have the older version which I think is brushless, but not fuel.

It is smaller and fits bertter in some of the tight attics when cutting in ceiling diffusers.

[R600a]

Are you using the M12 fuel version?

I only have the older version which I think is brushless, but not fuel.

It is smaller and fits bertter in some of the tight attics when cutting in ceiling diffusers.

I believe fuel is always brushless and non-fuel is always brushed.

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