I have a Kitchenaid side-by-side (Model: KSSC42GMS01) refrigerator which stopped cooling, compressorn(Embraco) running seems ok, one copper line is hot (I assume is liquid line), rest lines are just room temperature, condense coil is room temperature too, evaporator coil is not cold, the copper pipe connected with evaporator coil is just little bit colder than room, is this a sign of not enough freon? Thank for any help!
Hanging out with the mice behind the fridge talking bad about the roaches in the oven.
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It's likely low on refrigerant. An appliance repairman should be able to help you out. I work on quite a few of those and as long as they don't have the embraco variable speed compressor I have a fairly good success rate with using stop leak. I do not think stop leak is a good idea on any thing outside of refrigerators that would otherwise be destined for the scrap yard but I think in that situation is worth the gamble.
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"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
It's likely low on refrigerant. An appliance repairman should be able to help you out. I work on quite a few of those and as long as they don't have the embraco variable speed compressor I have a fairly good success rate with using stop leak. I do not think stop leak is a good idea on any thing outside of refrigerators that would otherwise be destined for the scrap yard but I think in that situation is worth the gamble.
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What do you use to tap into the refrigerant lines on domestic refrigerators?
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Originally Posted by szw21
What do you use to tap into the refrigerant lines on domestic refrigerators?
Supco line taps.
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"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
Hanging out with the mice behind the fridge talking bad about the roaches in the oven.
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Originally Posted by VTP99
What does EPA stand for ?
Extremely Powerful Authority.
That took me a few minutes to come up with.
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"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
Do they work on all models? I have fixed the odd fridge but nothing to do with the refrigerant circuit until a few years ago. I tried to help out a neighbor who had I believe a Samsung. It looked like a refrigerant leak so I thought about adding some stop leak with some R134a as a last ditch effort to keep it going while they shopped for a new one.
I just could not find a suitable place to use that line tap. Too many bends and the copper was out of round and/or the copper was metric and the line taps are imperial. When I finally installed in the best location I could find it leaked.
Do they work on all models? I have fixed the odd fridge but nothing to do with the refrigerant circuit until a few years ago. I tried to help out a neighbor who had I believe a Samsung. It looked like a refrigerant leak so I thought about adding some stop leak with some R134a as a last ditch effort to keep it going while they shopped for a new one.
I just could not find a suitable place to use that line tap. Too many bends and the copper was out of round and/or the copper was metric and the line taps are imperial. When I finally installed in the best location I could find it leaked.
Ever had this issue?
There temporarily only.
Install
Recover
Install a Schrader valve.
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Originally Posted by szw21
Do they work on all models? I have fixed the odd fridge but nothing to do with the refrigerant circuit until a few years ago. I tried to help out a neighbor who had I believe a Samsung. It looked like a refrigerant leak so I thought about adding some stop leak with some R134a as a last ditch effort to keep it going while they shopped for a new one.
I just could not find a suitable place to use that line tap. Too many bends and the copper was out of round and/or the copper was metric and the line taps are imperial. When I finally installed in the best location I could find it leaked.
Ever had this issue?
That is exactly what I do. It can be hard to find a spot to put it but you learn to work in cramped spaces when you work on fridges much. Are you stop leak from United refrigeration. They have one that goes up to a half ton or something like that and has UV dye if you want it. You can also get it without UV dye.
If you get the Mac brand line tap they leak like a sieve. I only use supco and although they are supposed to be temporary and they may leak a very small amount I have one that is been going over a year with stop leak and a line tap. I just considered a method of buying time and how much time there's no telling. It could be 6 months or it could be 6 years.
I put a lot of nylog on the gasket before I install it and I also clean and polish the copper line. I have even managed to use one directly on the compressor discharge stub one time and let me tell you that was not easy to pierce being still but it worked.
My favorite place to install them is on the process stub.
The reason I do not install a permanent fitting on a fridge that I know is leaking is that I cannot pull a vacuum so if I open up the system to braze in a valve I'm bound to get air and moisture in the system and I won't be able to properly remove it. It's just gas and go at that point. I seem to have about a 50% success rate at making them last another year or more. Usually if it's not going to work they don't last a week.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
Can you expound on this? I always thought a schrader valve was a schrader valve. Buy a 10 pack at amazon and use em up.
Ca nyou educate me on what to look for and what types are better or worse?
That is exactly what I do. It can be hard to find a spot to put it but you learn to work in cramped spaces when you work on fridges much. Are you stop leak from United refrigeration. They have one that goes up to a half ton or something like that and has UV dye if you want it. You can also get it without UV dye.
If you get the Mac brand line tap they leak like a sieve. I only use supco and although they are supposed to be temporary and they may leak a very small amount I have one that is been going over a year with stop leak and a line tap. I just considered a method of buying time and how much time there's no telling. It could be 6 months or it could be 6 years.
I put a lot of nylog on the gasket before I install it and I also clean and polish the copper line. I have even managed to use one directly on the compressor discharge stub one time and let me tell you that was not easy to pierce being still but it worked.
My favorite place to install them is on the process stub.
The reason I do not install a permanent fitting on a fridge that I know is leaking is that I cannot pull a vacuum so if I open up the system to braze in a valve I'm bound to get air and moisture in the system and I won't be able to properly remove it. It's just gas and go at that point. I seem to have about a 50% success rate at making them last another year or more. Usually if it's not going to work they don't last a week.
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"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I used the Supco - that was the first one I found when searching for a line tap. I did not use Nylog or polish the line. It leaked slightly when installed and I was able to get it partially charged and could see frost starting to form on the evap. Then the leak got worse and it was impossible to get anything in. I cannot recall what stop leak I tried but due to the line tap leak I was not able to get much of that in either.
In the end it was a failure and they got rid of the fridge and bought a new one. I did tell them that I was not sure how it was going to turn out.
I will try this again if the opportunity presents itself and see if I have better luck.
The saddle type ( in the picture ) you weld on to the charged line then pressure test your weld with nitrogen before you pierce with the brass fitting.
The former one you just clamp around then pierce.
The saddle type ( in the picture ) you weld on to the charged line then pressure test your weld with nitrogen before you pierce with the brass fitting.
The former one you just clamp around then pierce.
I Never liked brazing with refrigerant inside the line set!
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