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Thread: Torque wrench for mini-split tubing nuts...

  1. #1
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    Torque wrench for mini-split tubing nuts...

    I suspect there may be a thread on this...

    Saw this YJ unit on sale... wondered if it was a good one or there is a better choice:

    60648

    https://www.zoro.com/yellow-jacket-e...a&gclsrc=3p.ds

    Good item??? bad item???
    Better choices out there???

    We do not do many mini's... probably half a dozen a year.
    Still though... I like to have the correct tool for the specific procedure...
    GA-HVAC-Tech

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    *Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
    *The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
    *The value of comfort, over the long term; leave economic choices behind!
    Choose your contractor wisely!

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ga-hvac-tech View Post
    I suspect there may be a thread on this...

    Saw this YJ unit on sale... wondered if it was a good one or there is a better choice:

    60648

    https://www.zoro.com/yellow-jacket-e...a&gclsrc=3p.ds

    Good item??? bad item???
    Better choices out there???

    We do not do many mini's... probably half a dozen a year.
    Still though... I like to have the correct tool for the specific procedure...
    I have cps' version of that one. I love it. Way better than the click style with crows feet. The click style after a year or two started to stick and became a liability. The readout is nice. So you can tell how close you are. I dont really have a draw back. I can use adjustable wrenches but I can't feel when ľ" is tight. I usually with ľ" and ⅜" when I dont have the wrench I set them hand tight and flow nitro until the leak stops. Bubbles are involved in this method as well. Hope this helps...

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  4. #3
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    Have one, and it works well. Did not have any success with the interchangeable head type, they seemed to be hit and miss.

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    The CPS interchange head one is horrible. I hate even touching a tool thatís so horrible...you know how you feel disgusted just by the feel of itís cheapness.

    I donít think Iíd pay $180 for a torque wrench though. Torque isnít an exact thing. For example, lubing a flare nut is going to change how it torques. I think itís best to just torque it in a common sense way. IMHO manufacturers recommend torque because there are so many dumb people out there they have to cover their ass from warranty claims. I would never discourage anyone from using a torque wrench but I think if youíre competent youíd be fine without one. The most important thing is making a quality flare. A shitty flare is going to leak no matter how itís torqued.
    "I think Quantum tunneling would work great... "

    "Call a technician for God's sake. Or we'll see you on the news or the Dark Side of the Moon."

  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayMan7 View Post
    The CPS interchange head one is horrible. I hate even touching a tool thatís so horrible...you know how you feel disgusted just by the feel of itís cheapness.

    I donít think Iíd pay $180 for a torque wrench though. Torque isnít an exact thing. For example, lubing a flare nut is going to change how it torques. I think itís best to just torque it in a common sense way. IMHO manufacturers recommend torque because there are so many dumb people out there they have to cover their ass from warranty claims. I would never discourage anyone from using a torque wrench but I think if youíre competent youíd be fine without one. The most important thing is making a quality flare. A shitty flare is going to leak no matter how itís torqued.
    You're referring to the crow's feet right? 7 or so different sizes. That bugger is junk. The adjustable torque wrenches are all pretty much the same. But you are supposed to oil that bugger up. A drop on the back of the flare a smidgen on the face of both male and female ends and a drop or two on the threads. Let her run till she chirps and don't worry about it again. But yes it does start with a proper flare.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zamoramax View Post
    You're referring to the crow's feet right? 7 or so different sizes. That bugger is junk. The adjustable torque wrenches are all pretty much the same. But you are supposed to oil that bugger up. A drop on the back of the flare a smidgen on the face of both male and female ends and a drop or two on the threads. Let her run till she chirps and don't worry about it again. But yes it does start with a proper flare.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Yep thatís the one...and yes I use nylog I love that stuff! I want to try their new pipe dope.
    "I think Quantum tunneling would work great... "

    "Call a technician for God's sake. Or we'll see you on the news or the Dark Side of the Moon."

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  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ga-hvac-tech View Post
    I suspect there may be a thread on this...

    Saw this YJ unit on sale... wondered if it was a good one or there is a better choice:

    60648

    https://www.zoro.com/yellow-jacket-e...a&gclsrc=3p.ds

    Good item??? bad item???
    Better choices out there???

    We do not do many mini's... probably half a dozen a year.
    Still though... I like to have the correct tool for the specific procedure...
    I bought the YJ adjustable wrench this year after a bit of testing, I use it on every flared install. At first, I thought it was over tightening the flare nuts. Come to find out the wrench works great on the factory flares that come on the equipment (I used Mitsubishi). I tried using the flare nuts that came preinstalled on the line set, but they would not torque. I felt like I was going to strip them out. Not the case with the Mitsubishi oem flare nuts.
    "The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing" Socrates

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  12. #8
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    Would it be correct to say the line set was of Chinese origin?

  13. #9
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    I have the YJ kit. I like it. As others have said: the nuts that come with line sets often won't take the equipment manufacturer's torque spec. Stick with the forged nuts that come with the equipment. Also oil or Nylog on sliding surfaces will change the clamping force for any given torque. In this application, it is the clamping force that is what needs to be right. Torque is just a means to that end.

    Unless otherwise specified, torque specs are for clean dry threads and surfaces. If you are going to use oil, back off of the torque to some degree. I only use the torque wrench on lines 1/2" and up. I prefer to go by feel on anything smaller. Lots of people who do a lot of mini splits do not use torque wrenches and they don't have leaks. I think for people who don't do a lot of mini splits a torque wrench is beneficial.
    -Marty

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  15. #10
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    Torque wrench for mini-split tubing nuts...

    Quote Originally Posted by m singer View Post
    I have the YJ kit. I like it. As others have said: the nuts that come with line sets often won't take the equipment manufacturer's torque spec. Stick with the forged nuts that come with the equipment. Also oil or Nylog on sliding surfaces will change the clamping force for any given torque. In this application, it is the clamping force that is what needs to be right. Torque is just a means to that end.

    Unless otherwise specified, torque specs are for clean dry threads and surfaces. If you are going to use oil, back off of the torque to some degree. I only use the torque wrench on lines 1/2" and up. I prefer to go by feel on anything smaller. Lots of people who do a lot of mini splits do not use torque wrenches and they don't have leaks. I think for people who don't do a lot of mini splits a torque wrench is beneficial.
    Exactly! +1
    "I think Quantum tunneling would work great... "

    "Call a technician for God's sake. Or we'll see you on the news or the Dark Side of the Moon."

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