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Thread: Cooling gel or putty

  1. #1
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    Cooling gel or putty

    What do you guys use when sweating in line sets, reversing valves, txv's, etc? Still using wet rags but thinking about exploring other options that save a few minutes .

  2. #2
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    I use rags primarily but I also have refrigeration technologies "wet rag putty" and some heat gel. The gel I have only tried once but I really liked it.

    Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    I prefer the gel over the putty. Hell seems to do a better job cooling and staying in contact.

    Gel cleans up easier in my experience.

    We rags are very effective for non critical components. I opt for these first unless it’s a TXV or distribution tube or something of the likes.

    I use heat blankets to block wires and other things that shouldn’t have contact with flame.
    Quickly, I must hurry, for there go my people and I am their leader!

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  5. #4
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    I’ve tried putty but went back to wet rags. They’re just easier and more reliable. The key is to cut thin strips and keep them wet.

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  7. #5
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    I’ve tried everything and went back to wet rags. They’re always good to go when you need them, cheap, and way less messy! Also more versatile. You can rap them around something or lay them flat over stuff like a flame blanket.
    "I think Quantum tunneling would work great... "

    "Call a technician for God's sake. Or we'll see you on the news or the Dark Side of the Moon."

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  9. #6
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    I use coolgel and thermotrap. I think I like the thermotrap more. It does a better job and tends to stay in place. The gel if to close will splatter.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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  11. #7
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    I never cared for the putty stuff but I like the spray on gel, particularly for service valves and TXVs. For me and my sloppy brazing technique, I can get better protection. And it cleans up a lot easier than putty.

  12. #8
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    Mostly rags and the putty from refrigeration technologies. Just depends on situation wich I’ll use. Sometimes use both.

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  14. #9
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    Yeah I'm a ragy guy as well although I've got the others.
    One thing I don't like about wet rags is it takes more heat to do the weld.

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  16. #10
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    I use Kim wipes or similar thin cloth throw away rags.

    Fold them into 1” wide strips then spray or dunk with water and wrap.

    I tried cooling gel once, and somehow it made it inside the joint on a TXV.

    That was a total nightmare to deal with.

    After sever attempts to braze over, I had to take apart and start over after cleaning.

    Went back to old tried and true and never looked back.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  18. #11
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    Tried one tube of Gel , didnt care for it , Tried one tub of putty wetrag , didnt like it

    Back to water and a rag

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  20. #12
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    Spray, wet rags and a pump sprayer full of water. The biggest must have is the proper heat to get the braze to penetrate in a snap. That said minimum #2 rosebud accomplishes this.

    Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

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  22. #13
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    I use rags most of the time. I use the putty when I am close to something I really don't want to get heated up, but I put the putty on and then wrap it in wet rags. If you keep it moist you can pull it off easily and keep reusing it.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

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  24. #14
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    Wet rags on larger parts. Like thermal trap where rags may interfere with heat application.

    Main problems I've seen with most brazers are improper preheat, wrong tip size, wrong pressure adjustment. Simple test: if regulator is adjusted properly for selected tip you should be able to run with the torch valves full open. Adjust down as needed for a slightly carbonizing flame. Undersize tips & improper adjustment require more time increasing transferred heat & damaged components.

    Never dunk quench to prevent internal contamination, wet joint cavities. Allow more time before quenching dissimilar metals.

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  26. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehsx View Post
    Wet rags on larger parts. Like thermal trap where rags may interfere with heat application.

    Main problems I've seen with most brazers are improper preheat, wrong tip size, wrong pressure adjustment. Simple test: if regulator is adjusted properly for selected tip you should be able to run with the torch valves full open. Adjust down as needed for a slightly carbonizing flame. Undersize tips & improper adjustment require more time increasing transferred heat & damaged components.

    Never dunk quench to prevent internal contamination, wet joint cavities. Allow more time before quenching dissimilar metals.
    There’s no hope for me then

    I braze with a cutting torch and my torch rig looks like it’s been drug behind my van for miles.
    "I think Quantum tunneling would work great... "

    "Call a technician for God's sake. Or we'll see you on the news or the Dark Side of the Moon."

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  28. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayMan7 View Post
    There’s no hope for me then

    I braze with a cutting torch and my torch rig looks like it’s been drug behind my van for miles.
    Most people can do fairly well up to 1 1/8" pipe. Most failed initial testing on larger piping in classes I've taught.

  29. #17
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    I prefer wet rags, just because they're easy. The gel works well, but do not get it on your hands once it's absorbed the heat. LOL!!

  30. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehsx View Post
    Most people can do fairly well up to 1 1/8" pipe. Most failed initial testing on larger piping in classes I've taught.
    What was their issue? Not drawing in enough rod and getting poor penetration?

    I have brazed up to 4 1/8". If you are doing it right the sliphos rod is getting pulled in almost as fast as you can feed it. It is like a disappearing act.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  31. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BALloyd View Post
    What was their issue? Not drawing in enough rod and getting poor penetration?

    I have brazed up to 4 1/8". If you are doing it right the sliphos rod is getting pulled in almost as fast as you can feed it. It is like a disappearing act.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
    Less than 70% fill when cut open. Lack of preheat, heat location application. More focus on cap than flow. Using Harris 0, 5%, 15% & 45%.

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  33. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayMan7 View Post
    There’s no hope for me then

    I braze with a cutting torch and my torch rig looks like it’s been drug behind my van for miles.
    Ahh, I see you found my cutting torch, it fell off the truck a while ago, just keep it, I got a new one that I dragged behind the van the day after I got it... LOL
    "Orange Man RAD!"

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