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Thread: Air purifier

  1. #21
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    The plenum could use an extension for turbulence reduction.

    Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk

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  3. #22
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    Agreed. I'm sure it would also help with the light beam spread across the inside of the plenum as well. Thanks for pointing that out. I had been thinking of rebuilding it down the road but maybe I should gather some duct board and extend it up a bit before installing the light.

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  5. #23
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    You might have to to compensate for the turbulence from the lights. Or just as a general upgrade because the static can't be great with that.
    Oh yeah and if you're using duck board I've noticed they have this product called edge sealer that might be a good idea to use to prevent fiberglass in the air. I know it irritates my lungs when I breathe it.

    Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk

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  7. #24
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    Good idea man. I may just use sheet metal and insulate it the light will be mounted flush with the interior of the plenum so hopefully it wont create much of an issue. Actually now I think of this. I'll use sheet metal as it will support the little extra weight better over time. Can't wait till I get rolling on this.

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  9. #25
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    @CES-AC-TECH

    Glad to here the wife kicked its ass. Take care of her.

    Teddy bears advice is spot on.

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  11. #26
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    Thanks dude! We have all the windows and doors open to the house. This creates a strong natural draft sorta like a vacuum. I most definitely will pick-up some more filtration after I get the lights installed.

    Here's the response about ozone from the seller.
    Hello,

    We use doped quartz which blocks the 185nm wavelength that creates Ozone.

    Our bulbs are Ozone free.

    Thanks,

    Jon



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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by CEAS-AC-TECH View Post
    Thanks dude! We have all the windows and doors open to the house. This creates a strong natural draft sorta like a vacuum. I most definitely will pick-up some more filtration after I get the lights installed.

    Here's the response about ozone from the seller.
    Hello,

    We use doped quartz which blocks the 185nm wavelength that creates Ozone.

    Our bulbs are Ozone free.

    Thanks,

    Jon




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    The Dan Holohan method!

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  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    The Dan Holohan method!
    Yeah buddy LOL. I searched long and all around for a affordable solution as I just could not see myself spending $500 to $800 on something at the moment when I got so much going on. The lights are enclosed in a flood housing enclosure I'm in field as well so I took some pictures when I get them I dropped the link but the seller only has a couple of left at the moment and I plan on picking those up as well later on so I'm holding on to that one.

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  16. #29
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    I personally do not trust ozone, ionization, or photo catalytic technologies just yet for occupied spaces. Are our lungs really designed to inhale this over long periods? I guess we will find out.

    That said, ozone is VERY beneficial in an "Unoccupied space" for disinfecting. Remember for every hour of ozone, an equal hour should be considered for it to dissipate.

    I built a Carrier opticlean clone on the cheap using a damaged fan coil. It has the factory parker hepa filter just like they use in the hospitals. It will last 4 yrs.

    Read here if there is interest:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/to...asement-arcade

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  18. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by salmike View Post
    I personally do not trust ozone, ionization, or photo catalytic technologies just yet for occupied spaces. Are our lungs really designed to inhale this over long periods? I guess we will find out.

    That said, ozone is VERY beneficial in an "Unoccupied space" for disinfecting. Remember for every hour of ozone, an equal hour should be considered for it to dissipate.

    I built a Carrier opticlean clone on the cheap using a damaged fan coil. It has the factory parker hepa filter just like they use in the hospitals. It will last 4 yrs.

    Read here if there is interest:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/to...asement-arcade
    I once worked in a house and the air had this weird irritating feel to it and I got a metallic taste in my mouth when I was in there but I never knew what it was until years later I used an ozone generator to deodorize a couch and it made the exact same symptoms. I don't know how anyone could tolerate that in their house. (And the ozone did not work for deodorizing. You couldn't smell anything when it was running but it was just the ozone interfering with your nose.)

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  20. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by salmike View Post
    I personally do not trust ozone, ionization, or photo catalytic technologies just yet for occupied spaces. Are our lungs really designed to inhale this over long periods? I guess we will find out.

    That said, ozone is VERY beneficial in an "Unoccupied space" for disinfecting. Remember for every hour of ozone, an equal hour should be considered for it to dissipate.

    I built a Carrier opticlean clone on the cheap using a damaged fan coil. It has the factory parker hepa filter just like they use in the hospitals. It will last 4 yrs.

    Read here if there is interest:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/to...asement-arcade
    Awesome design and thanks for posting the link!
    Good thing the lights don't omit ozone. I'll be building a unit like yours in time.

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  21. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by salmike View Post
    I personally do not trust ozone, ionization, or photo catalytic technologies just yet for occupied spaces. Are our lungs really designed to inhale this over long periods? I guess we will find out.

    That said, ozone is VERY beneficial in an "Unoccupied space" for disinfecting. Remember for every hour of ozone, an equal hour should be considered for it to dissipate.

    I built a Carrier opticlean clone on the cheap using a damaged fan coil. It has the factory parker hepa filter just like they use in the hospitals. It will last 4 yrs.

    Read here if there is interest:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/to...asement-arcade
    Hey do you have a part number for any of this by chance? Or at least the hepa filter? Id like to tally it all up. Thanks.

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  22. #33
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    It's just a 24x24 hepa box filter. Call any good filter supplier, there are many sizes available.

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  24. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71CHOPS View Post
    It's just a 24x24 hepa box filter. Call any good filter supplier, there are many sizes available.
    Thanks dude much appreciate it

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  25. #35
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    It is not just a 24x24 hepa filter box. Be careful with the term "HEPA". There are good filters and bad filters. With our current pandemic, good filter availability is quite spotty. The reason I selected this one is it is 99.97% efficient down to as small as 0.3 microns. Our respiratory system (mucus membranes) filters down to 2 microns. Anything smaller goes deep into your airways.

    You do not want to spend all this time and money to build something that is only MERV 13 or MERV 15. I already have that on my furnace. This is purpose built to take clean indoor air and make it even cleaner, at a micron level.

    I built my Opticlean clone off of the narrow width 600CFM model FN1AAF006000, as my arcade was just a total basement. This unit retails around $2k to a building owner.

    **Keep in mind I did not build mine as a result of COVID or in any way to attempt to mitigate COVID**. Just to improve indoor air quality.

    This is my build for the 600CFM unit:
    1.) Carrier FB4CNP030L00 $300 (damaged - some pressure dimples on the cabinet and box gone.)
    2.) Evergreen IM 6005 ECM Motor $99 (New old stock with rough box)
    3.) HEPA Filter 16x20x12 (Carrier RCD Part#346345-75101) $350 ish (Mine was way less as I got employee discount)
    4.) Off the Shelf MERV 8 16x20x4 pleated filter $4 ~ $9
    5.) TRI-DIMM TRI-SORB XL Heavy Duty Carbon Pleated Filter 16x20x4 $50 **OR** TRI-DIMM TRI-SORB 50/50 Carbon/Alumina Blend Pleated Filter 16x20x4 $48
    6.) All thread, standing s-cleat, zip screws, and foam tape I got for free but expect about $20.

    **Don't get too depressed, the HEPA filter is expensive but will last 3.75 / 4 yrs if protected with a merv 8 prefilter**.

    Some notes of interest. Carrier, Bryant, Payne, ICP, and all the ICP off shoots share a very similar fan coil cabinet which I highly recommend using this cabinet and not any others, trust me on this one! You can use any 120v ECM motor either true variable speed or X-13. You could use a 120v PSC also if you don't mind the electrical consumption. As for the HEPA filter, this is why I stress using that particular fan coil cabinet, as Carrier and Parker have an agreement to supply these HEPA boxes / assemblies without interuption. This is how they were able to build so many Opticleans, and you don't see any other brands on the market anywhere..... The price is also not bad. Of course less efficient HEPA's can be sourced for less $$ but they will not filter down low enough. I found the best configuration to be the Merv 8 pleated filter taped to an identical carbon pleated filter, then gasketed to the HEPA filter. Big particles will hit the pleated filter, then the carbon will remove odors, then the hepa will remove all the other particles at a micron level. I replace the pleated filter every 90 days, and just cut the tape. I am currently undecided if the heavy carbon XL filter or the blend of 50/50 carbon alumina is a better choice. They make the air smell super fresh for only a very short time but I still want to beleive they can last up to 3-6 months. The more filters you sandwich together the higher blower speed you will need to maintain the airflow.

    I did not do any controls yet. The whole electrical cabinet is just wire nuts to the right speed taps I want to use.

    If you want to build the wider cabinet 1500 CFM model based off the FN1AAF015000 here are the materials:
    1.) HEPA Filter 20x20x12 (Part#346345-75102) $455.85
    2.) 20x20x4 off the shelf merv 8 filter
    3.) Use a 3/4 HP motor of your choice.
    Last edited by salmike; 05-11-2021 at 09:44 AM.

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  27. #36
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    Thanks man! I'll be putting aside for this one. It will actually help me circulate the air in the house by adding supply and return ductwork to the rooms. Cheers dude. Much appreciated

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  28. #37
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    So the lights came in. They are huge lol. I also purchased> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hisense-50-...TAR/1000558857


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  29. #38
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    The light you put in the return shining up at the filter may degrade the filter.

    They suggest placing the light between the filter and the coil.

    As long as you don’t leave the filter in a long time, probably will not be a problem.

  30. #39
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    Oxygen is the basic component needed in your home. Outside air is +20% oxygen. This is basic in our indoor quality. If the oxygen levels decline to <15% for extended periods, stressed humane health is threaten. The only source of oxygen is fresh outside air. ASHRAE/American Medical Assn suggest a fresh filtered air change for occupied homes every 3 hours. This will purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen for the occupants in a typical home for optimum indoor air quality.
    When winds are calm and the home is closed up during times of the year when we are heating and cooling our home, we may only get a fresh air change in +12 hours.

    Does this treatment eliminate the need for filtered air and need for humidity control?

    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

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  32. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    Oxygen is the basic component needed in your home. Outside air is +20% oxygen. This is basic in our indoor quality. If the oxygen levels decline to <15% for extended periods, stressed humane health is threaten. The only source of oxygen is fresh outside air. ASHRAE/American Medical Assn suggest a fresh filtered air change for occupied homes every 3 hours. This will purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen for the occupants in a typical home for optimum indoor air quality.
    When winds are calm and the home is closed up during times of the year when we are heating and cooling our home, we may only get a fresh air change in +12 hours.

    Does this treatment eliminate the need for filtered air and need for humidity control?

    Regards Teddy Bear
    For 3 seasons of the year I can get away with no humidity control or AC. In winter my humidity can drop down to 16% if I don’t try to control it. I leave windows open and have an exhaust fan run all day. I use a humidifier and reduce my air exchanges in winter. I can get it to bump up into the high 30s -low 40s with a bypass humidifier. I don’t have hot water available to pipe into it but I’m sure I could get a boost if I installed a little heater to it.

    In summer, spring, and fall the humidity naturally floats around 40-50%. I can imagine someone in a humid climate would not be so lucky and would need to run their dehumidifier, or AC frequently. So to answer your rhetorical question, it can eliminate the need for some humidity control

    I suppose I could close up windows and turn the fan off to see how much the humidity spikes, it’s not really a test I am interested in doing though and I don’t think it would provide much useful data since everyone’s situation will be different.
    Quickly, I must hurry, for there go my people and I am their leader!

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