Sounds simple as we all have done 100's. I changed out fan motor on York with a century motor as old fan motor was a MARS. Two brown wires to cap and black to black L1 AND Yellow to L2 white. The old wiring was one brown to cap and I wire nutted that off. In control panel there is two caps one brown on and a jumper from one cap to cap. Also power feeding one cap and 3 wires on each terminal that could be wire nutted if you choose. My problem was motor would turn even though I tested before putting fan blade on to check rotation. When blade was on the motor turned CCW and other motor was working. Then about 5 minute or so motor came on the stopped then came on again. I also use OEM and this was not OEM motor. The motor I took off had one brown wire coming back to cap which I used the cap in the box and wired as motor showed. Would motor work properly if I used the one wire and and ran it to cap in Unit like the last motor even though motor diagram asked for two? Im thinking with jumper wire to cap in the unit with power going to one terminal on the cap would work rather than diagram with motor. What went wrong and why is motor off and on? The York tech service guy came out on site and problem is still the same after he was looking at it.
I tried twice to understand what you did or didn't do.
1-Why or what are you wire nutting off?
2-"I also use OEM and this was not OEM motor." help me understand what you are try to state.
3-You were there, we are not, what are the two capacitors jumped for?
Well, if York tech support guy can't figure it out, I guess you are screwed or "guy" wasn't much support or maybe he's the new breed of tech support and we're all screwed.
It`s better to be silent and thought the fool; than speak and remove all doubt.
On the new motor, you connected the brown wire to the original brown wire that goes to the capacitor in the electrical section. Was it brown with white tracer or solid brown?
Did you feel the motor, is it hot ?
I tried twice to understand what you did or didn't do.
1-Why or what are you wire nutting off?
2-"I also use OEM and this was not OEM motor." help me understand what you are try to state.
3-You were there, we are not, what are the two capacitors jumped for?
Well, if York tech support guy can't figure it out, I guess you are screwed or "guy" wasn't much support or maybe he's the new breed of tech support and we're all screwed.
Sorry I was using speech text. I meant I always use OEM and this time I was not allowed to. I wired nutted the wire that goes to the capacitor in the control box. The reason I did that is because the rescue motor comes with its own wire and capacitor which I used. The reason I wire netted the brown wire is because I was not going to be using that on the capacitor in the control box. The reason the capacitors are jumped L1 going to cap. This is original and on the Schematic. So basically you have one line of power going to the capacitor and then with the jumper on the capacitor that brings voltage to the other capacitor and then that sends it to the motor.
I did not use the wire back from the original capacitor. As for which color wire I used I couldn’t tell if it had the white stripe or if it was solid brown due to the sun has faded it. This is on the original motor. I will need to ohm for white to brown and stripped brown as well as black wire from the new Motor to find the least resistance if I do install the way the original was installed. The way this motor is wired right now is line 1 line 2 and the brown and straight brown from the motor to its own capacitor. My thinking is the hook the white and black from the original motor for line 1 line 2 and then trying to figure out if I just send the striped wire or brown wire back to the original capacitor. I don’t know if that’ll solve the problem
On the new motor, you connected the brown wire to the original brown wire that goes to the capacitor in the electrical section. Was it brown with white tracer or solid brown?
Did you feel the motor, is it hot ?
Sent from my ASUS_P00J using Tapatalk
This is basically what I was trying to do go from a four wire to a three wire and do not use the white striped.
Diagram courtesy of Emerson
How to wire a condensing fan motor for 3 vs. 4 wires is a common question by new techs. Jesse Grandbois submitted this tech tip to help make it simple. Thanks, Jesse!.
This is a quick one on the difference between wiring universal condenser fan motors and why brown+white is the same wire as white. This one seems to confuse even experienced technicians and really is very simple once you see it. Now keep in mind that wire colors ACTUALLY MEAN NOTHING, but on service replacement motors the colors do tend to be consistent. As always, refer to the wiring diagram on the particular motor you are using.
I'll provide a diagram and explain the wires below.
Here's the 3 wire method:
– White wire from the condenser fan motor to one side of power on the contactor (T1) and jumped to one side of the fan capacitor. This is AC power and not a dual capacitor, so the terminal side does not matter
– Black wire from the condenser fan motor to other side of power on the contactor (T2)
– Brown wire from the condenser fan motor to the other side of the capacitor opposite the jumper wire.
– Cap off brown+white (unused)
Whether a 4 wire or 3 wire, it is not that complicated.
Is this a straight cooling unit?
Forever and a day motors have been produced with either the brown/white wire or a ribbed wire.
Either indicate the same thing.
Is this a single speed ODF motor or 2 speed?
Sound like someone didn't have the correct capacitor once upon a time and paralleled two to make one.
It`s better to be silent and thought the fool; than speak and remove all doubt.
Whether a 4 wire or 3 wire, it is not that complicated.
Is this a straight cooling unit?
Forever and a day motors have been produced with either the brown/white wire or a ribbed wire.
Either indicate the same thing.
Is this a single speed ODF motor or 2 speed?
Sound like someone didn't have the correct capacitor once upon a time and paralleled two to make one.
It was factory this way even the York tech-support guy came out to my site and he had a hard time as well. Yes you would think it would be very easy but something is not working right this unit is probably 18 years old
Membership Chair/ARP Committee / Professional Member*
Join Date
Sep 2002
Location
I try to stay as far away from myself as I can.
Posts
37,828
Post Likes
Likes (Given)
441
Likes (Received)
11527
Dislikes (Given)
5
Dislikes (Received)
27
I can't make out what you are doing / getting.
But . . . there is a compressor contactor, right?
Connect the L1 and the L2 wires from the motor to the load side of the contactor - this is where the wires To the compressor are connected.
Connect both brown wires from the motor to the correct size capacitor.
Set the motor rotation to match the fan blade.
Mount the motor's new capacitor properly and tidy it all up.
The end.
If the motor has the correct voltage supplied to it, and the run capacitor is verified good, all the wire connections are secure, and the motor does not run well - the motor is defective.
PHM
---------
Originally Posted by bwd111
Sounds simple as we all have done 100's. I changed out fan motor on York with a century motor as old fan motor was a MARS. Two brown wires to cap and black to black L1 AND Yellow to L2 white. The old wiring was one brown to cap and I wire nutted that off. In control panel there is two caps one brown on and a jumper from one cap to cap. Also power feeding one cap and 3 wires on each terminal that could be wire nutted if you choose. My problem was motor would turn even though I tested before putting fan blade on to check rotation. When blade was on the motor turned CCW and other motor was working. Then about 5 minute or so motor came on the stopped then came on again. I also use OEM and this was not OEM motor. The motor I took off had one brown wire coming back to cap which I used the cap in the box and wired as motor showed. Would motor work properly if I used the one wire and and ran it to cap in Unit like the last motor even though motor diagram asked for two? Im thinking with jumper wire to cap in the unit with power going to one terminal on the cap would work rather than diagram with motor. What went wrong and why is motor off and on? The York tech service guy came out on site and problem is still the same after he was looking at it.
PHM
--------
When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.
The 2 browns to the new cap , and nothing more , those 2 is all it needs
Ok ...... now one thing I notice is you arent using your AMP METER
I say this because the motor ran for 5 minutes and turned off on OL
Always check amps with Fan Motors. They are NOT the same as compressors where the listed amps are 18 and it pulls 12 , No , Not at all , when a fan says it pulls 3.5 amps it should be dam close to that
Something else I've learned is .... not all motors like to be used as 3 wire
I've had some where I nutted the White/Brown and only used the solid brown and ... it Over Amped
So I dont even try that anymore , get into the habbit of adding its own Cap
If you have done this and its still not amping correctly , look at the OTHER fans Cap , sometimes it can be bad causing backfeed , or some other tech wired it wrong
The 2 browns to the new cap , and nothing more , those 2 is all it needs
Ok ...... now one thing I notice is you arent using your AMP METER
I say this because the motor ran for 5 minutes and turned off on OL
Always check amps with Fan Motors. They are NOT the same as compressors where the listed amps are 18 and it pulls 12 , No , Not at all , when a fan says it pulls 3.5 amps it should be dam close to that
Something else I've learned is .... not all motors like to be used as 3 wire
I've had some where I nutted the White/Brown and only used the solid brown and ... it Over Amped
So I dont even try that anymore , get into the habbit of adding its own Cap
If you have done this and its still not amping correctly , look at the OTHER fans Cap , sometimes it can be bad causing backfeed , or some other tech wired it wrong
I Did use the amp meter but I was embarrassed to say it was 3.2 A rated but I’m pulling 6 A on the motor. I’m on the job site now I’m going to use the unstriped brown wire connect the old wire back to the capacitor and see what happens. Factory installed had it this way they use three wires instead of four on all these Yorks
The 2 browns to the new cap , and nothing more , those 2 is all it needs
Ok ...... now one thing I notice is you arent using your AMP METER
I say this because the motor ran for 5 minutes and turned off on OL
Always check amps with Fan Motors. They are NOT the same as compressors where the listed amps are 18 and it pulls 12 , No , Not at all , when a fan says it pulls 3.5 amps it should be dam close to that
Something else I've learned is .... not all motors like to be used as 3 wire
I've had some where I nutted the White/Brown and only used the solid brown and ... it Over Amped
So I dont even try that anymore , get into the habbit of adding its own Cap
If you have done this and its still not amping correctly , look at the OTHER fans Cap , sometimes it can be bad causing backfeed , or some other tech wired it wrong
I wired the fan it was originally just a minute ago and now the fan is going in reverse even though I have the leads on the motor for clockwise so I reversed them just to see what would happen and the fans are still going backwards on one fan. So I’m going Use my meter with continuity to find the two wires which I think I know where they are I’m going to put them directly on the fan contactor and just use the That came with the motor. Why is the motor going backwards I do not understand this. Basically line 1 line 2 and one wire to the No reason this fan should be going backwards.
It’s a package unit it is a York model number DH120N20P2bma3. If you pull up the wiring diagram look at wire 116 you’ll see that’s where the jumper is. What I did is I pulled the power from one side of the I just put it on the contactor and the motor seems to go in the correct way I do not know why the factory has two caps nobody can understand why I’m getting voltage fat back to make this motor going to reverse I’m about ready to throw it off the roof
Professional Member
It`s better to be silent and thought the fool; than speak and remove all doubt.
Originally Posted by dandyme
trippintl0 liked this post.
Professional Member*
Reply