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Heatilator nxt
I want to install a heatilator fireplace
Model: NNXT4236IF-B
I ripped the old wood burning insert out because of water damage.
I fixed the water issues, insulated the inside with wool ( top and sides) and panned the entire enclosure with sheetmetal.
My roughin opening is;
25" deep
42" wide
38-1/2" tall inside
The outside is vinyl siding. This model claims to be zero clearance and i can install it in this enclosed enclosure with zero clearance to the top standoffs on the fireplace.
I was going to rear vent with their flue pipe, termination cap, and vinyl protection kit.
Does anyone see any issues with this?
https://downloads.hearthnhome.com/in...s/2382_980.pdf
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You should be fine with your plan Gravity. It is advisable to to vent off the top then out if you have the 3" clearance but if not it should vent just fine out the rear at that horizontal offset.
FYI, for the dogshed, we recommend insulation with rockwool then sheathing it with Thermo-ply or Thermo-Sheath thin structural panels with the seams taped using UL 181 foil tape. One "Jiffy-Popped", no cold air infiltration. Of course, no insulation in the cavity of the horizontal firestops but you can silicone the joint btw the DVP pipe and firestop inside and out per UL. If you want to reduce the chance of odors, wipe down all the metal with a citrus based solvent cleaner just before you enclosed the wall. It WILL smoke and stink for the first 8-12 hrs. and set off the smoke alarm so ventilate the home and burn it on high all day.
Make sure you post final pics when done.
Take care old friend,
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
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I used rockwool insulation inside the dog house and panned with sheetmetal to hold it in. I rockwooled the bottom, sides, and top. I used sheetmetal because if i used plywood, the roughin wouldn't be wide enough for the new fireplace.
On the outside of the doghouse, it is plywood with tyvek wrap, foam board, and then vinyl siding.
When i was going to cut the hole for the dvp, it said not to insulate inside the metal firestop but i could insulate all around the outside of it with rock wool. Does this sound normal?
On the outside of the house it was the vinyl protection kit with the termination cap.
Hope you can draw the picture in your head.
I have some citrus car was soap that strips wax off the car. Maybe i can wipe it down with that. Thats a good tip
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This is what is behind the vinyl siding where the DVP and termination cap will go.
From inside it is sheetmetal, rockwool insulation, plywood, tyvek wrap, thermasheath, vinyl siding. Would i need to worry about the venting getting this too hot? Should i remove it or does the firestop framing the DVP goes thru sufficient enough to keep the heat away?
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When you frame out for the firestop that forces your clearances to combustibles- 3" top/ 1" sides and bottom. Frame it in on all four sides then insulate up to this box but not inside. The sheathing is fine. It not only insulates but retains the batts in the stud cavities. If you tape it you won't have cold air infiltration potential. Don't forget to insulate and seal overhead where the firestop was for the woody.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
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Yes, I insulated and sealed off the old chase above the fireplace. I think this is what you meant at the end.
Once i cut the hole for the DVP, i will insulate around the firestop framing but not on the inside of the firestop.
I was going to frame the firestop with 2x4, add rockwool, and enclose it with sheetmetal.
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I'm ready for the new fireplace
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Performed combustion test after letting it run gor a while in high
Running 10% - 7%o2 depending where it is in the exhaust pipe
About 700* flue
And 90ppm co
I also notice some flame disturbance when i turn the fan on
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The O2 number will change as the vent heats up and thermosyphons. That's about normal for a gas DV with a short vent run. The CO is supposed to be <25ppm AF. That's on a unit in perfect condition that's broken in. It'll drop after it cooks in.
You did a good job buddy!
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
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Thanks Bob. I'll keep an eye out on the combustion.
When using the DVP pipe, should i silicone where they hook together or only silicone the outer pipe when sliding the DVPTRAP2 onto the pipe sticking thru the wall?
I also found the Trap-vss which is for the vinyl siding. Once i get the vinyl siding trimmed out, i will permanently mount the termination cap.
I had it slid all the way one when checking combustion.
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You can seal the circumferential joints once you've established the layout then silicone the firestop penetrations both inner and outer. You can attach a short length of tubing to a caulking gun for a flexible snout. I typically use a the outer casing of some Romex then toss it. You can reach into that tight space between the pipe and the framing to steer the tip right at the joint all the way around. That should eliminate cold air with your metal panning job.
The Trap 2 a deeper termination so it may be difficult getting to that one joint. You can silicone the fixed end then shove it over the pipe but you'll never be able to pull it again.
Yes, the vinyl siding protector is a good idea. Normally, the siding doesn't get too hot. However, if you have wind blowing back towards your house it can easily soften and disform your siding.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
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Install is complete
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Make sure to clean your glass in a couple weeks. The off gassing of the silicone until it cures in the hot fireplace can fog and possibly etch your glass if you don't clean it once.
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Originally Posted by
BALloyd
Make sure to clean your glass in a couple weeks. The off gassing of the silicone until it cures in the hot fireplace can fog and possibly etch your glass if you don't clean it once.
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Good to know. It is ceramic glass. Regular glass cleaner is fine?
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I only use fireplace glass cleaner on fireplace glass. Your local hardware store will have some....or a good wholesaler.
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I use SprayWay because it's an alcohol-based foam. Mfrs. have determined ammonia-based glass cleaners can cause a rainbow discoloration of the tempered and ceramic glass (yours is ceramic). To remove the silicone residue, use ceramic glass cleaners such as White-Off, Cerama-Bryte such as for cook tops, or you can use Brasso or Noxon metal polish. Heatilator actually tested those and found no crazing of the glass. Follow up with more SprayWay for a streak-free cleaning. Small cans for a buck at the big Home Cheapo. As BALloyd said, just don't wait too long. Do your initial burn-in for about 10-20hrs. then clean it. Then at least annually depending upon use.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
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@hearthman
I was performing combustion again tonight.
CO is coming down in the exhaust
49ppm CO
9-10% O2
I noticed i had combustion in the intake pipe. Ill check numbers again later but I remember seeing 12-14% O2, 20+PPM CO and 200-250*+ Temperature
What do you think about that?
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