Back-flush Toilet and Pex-Al-Pex for shop

[Snaple4]

We are getting ready to start running water and sewer to one of our shops. Water will come from a yard hydrant about 150' away (which is about 50' from well and another 50' to house and pressure tank). Sewer will run down to septic tank. Anyway, we are thinking about using Pex-Al-Pex as direct burial except for under the drive way we will use some pvc sleeve. A few questions we are having a bit trouble getting a straight answer for:

1) Do you have to bed Pex-Al-Pex with sand or anything else if not in a sleeve?
2) Do we need a pressure tank at the shop for well or is the one in the house fine for the whole system?
3) Back-flush or Rear-Flush toilets, what is the best way to mount the closet flange? I have always either had them in a concrete slab or a sub-floor. We are wanting to avoid cutting and jack-hammering out a space for the drain so are going with one that goes out the back. Any advise for installing one? We are going with the AS Yorkville power assist toilet.

[WAYNE3298]

I would sleeve the supply pipe to prevent rocks from cutting holes in the pipe. The house pressure tank should work fine. I have no comment on the toilet.

[surefire96]

I'd be leary on that al pex, haven't seen it anywhere up here since the whole kitec lawsuits can't even buy fittings easily to repair systems that do exist

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[Snaple4]

Thank you for your input. I am about 2 months out before I start but am trying to purchase a few things every week. Right now I’m leaning towards regular 3/4 pex sleeved with gray pvc.

Ordered the toilet. I’ll see how that works out.

[surefire96]

I would recommend using 3/4 uponor wirsbo, not the pex, the pex will work fine but the wirsbo is a better product, you can actually buy it pre sleeved

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[BALloyd]

I would recommend using 3/4 uponor wirsbo, not the pex, the pex will work fine but the wirsbo is a better product, you can actually buy it pre sleeved

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X2. The Wirsbo is a lot nicer product.

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[safebustr]

I installed an American Standard thru the wall flush toilet with the power assist flush. Works great. I would just be real careful to get your holes lined up correctly when mounting it to wall and if you are a man, don't flush it while setting down, that thing has got some more flushing power, you might lose some important anatomical parts otherwise.

[Snaple4]

I ended up purchasing a manual pex crimp and expansion tool so I’ll probably run pex-a. The size difference of the fittings is incredible.

Since I had to dig up around my well to replace a hydrant I also order a cycle stop valve for my well. Will be interesting to see if it makes much of a difference in how many times the pump cycles. Anyone have any experience with this thing?

https://cyclestopvalves.com/

[madhat]

Why don’t you run polyethylene well Pipe between the buildings? It’s a lot more rugged than PEX, and cheaper. You can get it in a continuous length, so there’s no couplings in the ground. A truck load of sand will protect the Pipe for several of your lifetimes. I’d put a small bladder style tank in your remote building with a check valve before the tank. That will cut down on surging, when valves open and close. If you do loose water pressure, you’ll at least have a couple toilet flushes.

[Snaple4]

Update:

Backflush toilet never came in. Good thing b/c we had to outfit water with disinfection system. We are now starting to cover our trenches that contain:
1 - 2" sleeve for electrical to shop (old line was varying size and had a haphazard splice under ground)
2 - 1.5" sleeve to well for future well house.
3 - 1" Yellow PE pipe from propane tank
4 - 3/4" sleeve for future low voltage/data cables
5 - 2" sleeve for water line to ground box( 1 2" sleeve will go to shop and yard hydrant. Other 2" sleeve will go behind shop for yard hydrant)
6 - 3" sewer pipe from septic (splits before shop under ground box. One goes to shop and the other goes behind for future use)

All required tracer wires in place and used yellow and red cation tape. Used 1/2 pea gravel for bedding b/c sand wasn't available. By the way, pea gravel is a lot easier to work with than sand. If it wasn't so much more money I would use it more. We will be using 1" pex-a to the junction box in the yard. Might try to stay 1" after that but depends on if we can pull it through the 2" pvc sleeve.

Now I am having to figure out how to do the sewer lines in the shop since we will go under the slab. If I use a 4" to 3" elbow from toilet can I use a 3"x3"x2" DWV Wye Hub directly after it for a sink? Vent will be just after the Wye Hub going up outside of building or part of 2" and behind sink. Anyone have any suggestions?

As a side note, I am checking to see if a water check valve is ok going up to shop. Since it is an elevation rise I figure it would help with head pressure. I have been told adding a second pressure tank will cause problems so will avoid that.