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Thread: Installing Danfoss TEV

  1. #21
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    Next time i will try 15% ,worked good with 45% .I also put heat trap paste on the valve(don't think that can hurt).

  2. #22
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    Yeah I know, not all manufacturers make their every product all that great.

    BUT, they do say "Made in Denmark" and that's good enough for me.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gleng View Post
    hey Olivero!!!.Danfoss makes some good stuff.But some stuff also sucks.Try their Low pressure controls.Set it on 5#.it will shut off at 20.Scales are way off.Not with a Penn.Set a penn at 103 it shuts off at 10#.When you buy a brand new Trenton condensing unit with a Danfoss.Thre is a note on the control that says:set this control with a set of gauges, because it is going to be way off!!!!Sorry ,not a Danfoss fan.
    The scales on any pressure control are for general reference.

    I set/test all pressure controls with gauges/nitrogen. The only way to know for sure.


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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadDaddy420 View Post
    The scales on any pressure control are for general reference.

    I set/test all pressure controls with gauges/nitrogen. The only way to know for sure.


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    I do as well, I prefer just doing it so that I KNOW it's set right and I can say I did it the right way.

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sac View Post
    Copper coated stainless. Use 45% and flux and be gentle with a torch.
    Fun fact
    The copper bushing is pressed in

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  8. #26
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    Itís not a ďbushingĒ. The copper and stainless are pressed together under so much pressure they are fused together. It actually explains that in the video I posted at around the 4:35 mark.


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  10. #27
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    For lack of a better term I guess lol. What do you call the copper piece that would look like bushing before it's pressed? It is not copper coated stainless.

  11. #28
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    Itís not copper coated, not a bushing. Itís metal pressed and fused. A bushing would be removable. Copper coated cannot be unbrazed and reused easily as the copper coating ends up mixed with the brazing alloy.

    A bushing isnít tight, itís a reducer and it would have to be brazed in as well.

    Itís what makes the welding easier (once you figure it out) while keeping the valve itself corrosion resistant.

    Copper coated is usually done with plain steel. A lot of drier connections are coated so one can use 15% with no flux.

    This is the same general idea, but it becomes one piece of metal. Kind of like a bimetallic coil in a basic AC thermostat. Itís 2 metals pressed together and the difference in expansion causes the coil to expand and contract making it move.

    In this case they found a way to give us a corrosion free part thatís fairly easy to install by pressing the metals together.

    I think that is what confuses people on the brazing. Copper to stainless would require 45%. Being the copper is fused to the stainless by pressing to allow the use of 15%.

    Also stainless transfers heat 10+ times slower, which is why there is no need to wrap the valve.

    Without digging into the technical aspects of it...


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  12. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gleng View Post
    To Icemeister; thanks for the Danfoss video.It greatly helped.I installed the valve without any problem.I did use Flux with 45% silver.I know the video says the flux can cause corrosion.But it makes the silver flow better.I cleaned it off well.If the valve leaks from corrosion.I Will be long gone by then!!!!!!
    Flux causes corrosion. Whether you're doing refrigeration work or plumbing, the flux needs to be cleaned off with a wet rag after the joint is made.
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  14. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadDaddy420 View Post
    Itís not copper coated, not a bushing. Itís metal pressed and fused. A bushing would be removable. Copper coated cannot be unbrazed and reused easily as the copper coating ends up mixed with the brazing alloy.

    A bushing isnít tight, itís a reducer and it would have to be brazed in as well.

    Itís what makes the welding easier (once you figure it out) while keeping the valve itself corrosion resistant.

    Copper coated is usually done with plain steel. A lot of drier connections are coated so one can use 15% with no flux.

    This is the same general idea, but it becomes one piece of metal. Kind of like a bimetallic coil in a basic AC thermostat. Itís 2 metals pressed together and the difference in expansion causes the coil to expand and contract making it move.

    In this case they found a way to give us a corrosion free part thatís fairly easy to install by pressing the metals together.

    I think that is what confuses people on the brazing. Copper to stainless would require 45%. Being the copper is fused to the stainless by pressing to allow the use of 15%.

    Also stainless transfers heat 10+ times slower, which is why there is no need to wrap the valve.

    Without digging into the technical aspects of it...


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    Since we are being picky it's 11 times slower says the video lol

  15. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    Since we are being picky it's 11 times slower says the video lol
    Exactly. 10+


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  16. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadDaddy420 View Post
    Itís not a ďbushingĒ. The copper and stainless are pressed together under so much pressure they are fused together. It actually explains that in the video I posted at around the 4:35 mark.


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    Dictionary definition
    Bushing
    Noun
    A metal lining for a round hole...

    Bushing used in a sentence...

    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    Fun fact
    The copper bushing is pressed in
    Exactly
    ďIf You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A BallĒ

  17. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    Dictionary definition
    Bushing
    Noun
    A metal lining for a round hole...

    Bushing used in a sentence...



    Exactly



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  18. #34
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    You're telling me they welded copper to stainless steel by pushing them together creating enough friction to hit the melting point of not only copper but stainless?

    Stainless 304 melts at around 2400*F-2600*F
    Copper melts at less than 2000*F

    I don't see how it's possible these 2 mixed into a stable metal just like that and created a leak proof joint.

    It's like trying to braze aluminum, unless you get rid of the oxide layer which melts at over 3000*F you'll eventally get through the oxide layer and completely liquify the section of aluminum under it as aluminums melting point is 1200*F

    I've tried TIG welding Copper to stainless and they don't like eachother that much. I ended up stripping wire and using that for filler.

    Aluminum has to be TIG welded with an alternatig current where the oxide layer is bombarded with charged particles to chip it and then break it off.

    So how did they do that? I'm genuinely curious.

  19. #35
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    Installing Danfoss TEV

    Like this:

    https://service.falkcoppercookware.c...rticle/View/23


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  20. #36
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    It's a magical bushing formed from copper found in a secret mine deep in an enchanted forest that is pressed in tight by whimsical talking danishes that live in a tree but not in the "enchanted" forest just a regular forest with regular trees.

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  22. #37
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    Well, I'll be darned.

    Guess I need a big press then.

  23. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadDaddy420 View Post
    Like this:

    https://service.falkcoppercookware.c...rticle/View/23


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    Like turning carbon into diamonds
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Why is it that those who complain the most contribute the least?
    MONEY CAN'T BUY HAPPINESS. POVERTY CAN'T BUY ANYTHING

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  25. #39
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    I put a little white paste flux on and use 15%. It allows the silfos to stick to the stainless and makes a nicer looking joint with a bit of a shoulder. Probably not necessary but I like it to look nice.

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