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Thread: New swaging tool

  1. #1
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    New swaging tool

    My hydraulic swaging tool finally broke after many years of use. What tool do you guys prefer? Has anyone used the ones that you use a drill?

  2. #2
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    I use the spin swag. I do really like it. But it takes a lil practice. 1st time using it, needed 4 stitches in my finger. That was my fault tho. A drop of vac oil on bit makes it much easier. If I was buying again, would get the hilmor compact kit.


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  4. #3
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    I have used the ones made by spin tools and I thought it worked alright but I prefer the manual flare and swedge. I also tried the rectorseal spin swage tool and it ground out the inside of the pipe making a lot of shavings and twisted the pipe so I cut it off and used the hydraulic swedge.
    I like the hilmar hydraulic swedge for speed and the old yellow jacket flare and swedge block for quality.

    Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk

  5. #4
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    I use the spin swage and also the hydraulic swager made by iwiss. I like them both for different situations. The iwiss tool looks identical to the hilmor but is less exspensive and I believe it also contains more dies. It really does feel like a quality tool but time will tell. Ive probably had it for 3 years now. It does split 3/8 tubing if you're not careful but I don't feel it's the sawgers fault. If it happens I just put extra braze over the crack. I think copper tubing today is lower quality than it used to be.

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  6. #5
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    I use a hydraulic swedge tool made by master cool.It looks identical to the yellow Jacket one.It has worked well.For flares I use the old reliable Yellow Jacket .The one with the bicycle looking handle.Serves me well .Have not used the spin type, happy with the Flares the yellow jacket makes.

  7. #6
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    The one I have is by mastercool. The hydraulic part broke. I guess I could see if I can order just that part

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by leslie cook View Post
    The one I have is by mastercool. The hydraulic part broke. I guess I could see if I can order just that part
    I would call master cool.I think you can order that part separately

  9. #8
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    I called master cool. They can repair the hydraulic part. It got mailed today to get an estimate. Thanks for all the advice from everyone

  10. #9
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    Good Deal .Glad you called Master Cool.I have called them before.They were good people.Hopefully the repair is not too expensive.You already bought the tool once.d]seems like it should not of broke anyway!!!!

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperTech2010 View Post
    I use the spin swag. I do really like it. But it takes a lil practice. 1st time using it, needed 4 stitches in my finger. That was my fault tho. A drop of vac oil on bit makes it much easier. If I was buying again, would get the hilmor compact kit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The spin stuff is no oil. The copper needs to get hot and needs that friction. It might help you to not push for a couple of seconds. Need a fast and powerful drill for best results.

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  13. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayMan7 View Post
    I think copper tubing today is lower quality than it used to be.
    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    No question about it! Today's copper splits and kinks easier than it used to.
    -Marty

  14. #12
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    Spin Tools swage set, done. Been using it for years now.
    "The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing" Socrates

  15. #13
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    I use this swagging tool work fine for me. image link not allowed. so, i cannot show here

  16. #14
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    Look into repairs for yours, I love my Hilmor hydraulic.

  17. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    The spin stuff is no oil. The copper needs to get hot and needs that friction. It might help you to not push for a couple of seconds. Need a fast and powerful drill for best results.
    That's what I thought until I used them with some wd40...they do work better with some lube. I'm not sure exactly why. I think the oil ultimately burns off but it just helps initially start the process.

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  18. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayMan7 View Post
    That's what I thought until I used them with some wd40...they do work better with some lube. I'm not sure exactly why. I think the oil ultimately burns off but it just helps initially start the process.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    WD40 has been shown to increase friction in some cases. It is an extremely poor lubricant but sounds perfect for that application. It might just smooth it out enough at first to not tear up the pipe.

    Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk

  19. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by R600a View Post
    WD40 has been shown to increase friction in some cases. It is an extremely poor lubricant but sounds perfect for that application. It might just smooth it out enough at first to not tear up the pipe.

    Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
    Yes i think that is the way I would describe it. It seems to just make the process go smoother.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    "I think Quantum tunneling would work great... "

    "Call a technician for God's sake. Or we'll see you on the news or the Dark Side of the Moon."

  20. #18
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    May skip a step and try some leak seal or dye

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  22. #19
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    I tried the spin swage a long time ago, on just small stuff. How does it work on 3/4" tube? Does it leave shards inside? I always reamed and deburred tube before I used it and don't remember any problems with 1/4" stuff. Also, do you guys have any preference for angled or straight head hydraulic swagers?

  23. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by channellxbob View Post
    I tried the spin swage a long time ago, on just small stuff. How does it work on 3/4" tube? Does it leave shards inside? I always reamed and deburred tube before I used it and don't remember any problems with 1/4" stuff. Also, do you guys have any preference for angled or straight head hydraulic swagers?
    It works fine on 3/4 and 7/8. It takes just a tad bit longer and lube helps. Definitely need a 18V drill to do it. And I usually don't deburr. In most situations it seems like the deburring process creates far more risk of debris than just using the spin tool on fresh cut copper. It seems to me that both the spin swedge and spin flare basically polish the copper so well that burrs get smoothed/polished out of the copper. I've never seen shards left behind. As far as hydraulic goes definitely prefer the 90 degree tool because it's easy one hand operation and you can get in tighter spaces.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    "I think Quantum tunneling would work great... "

    "Call a technician for God's sake. Or we'll see you on the news or the Dark Side of the Moon."

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