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Thread: I'm not Proud to do this...but customer could not afford new system or coil.

  1. #61
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    If you stick them together with a bead of silicone caulk - that will stop happening.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pnasty View Post
    Saw it on a dual pressure control where each cap tube had rubbed through and been repaired 3 times.
    PHM
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    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of Thinking

  2. #62
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    I just put a tie wrap or two on it.


    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    If you stick them together with a bead of silicone caulk - that will stop happening.
    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

  3. #63
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    or just make sure their not touching each other ....

  4. Likes Achso017 liked this post.
  5. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    or just make sure their not touching each other ....
    Even cap tubes need to socially distance.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

  6. Likes Achso017, BBeerme liked this post.
  7. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by shellkamp View Post
    Even cap tubes need to socially distance.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
    Good luck with that 🙄
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #66
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    Those cap tubes need to be thrown in prison. We'll let some felons out of prison to make room.
    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

  9. #67
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Fvaladao View Post
    Your customer couldn’t afford it. Did you fix it for free.
    I can see at least 4 to 5 hours of labor, adding R-22 and as preventative maintenance maybe you added the easy seal.


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    I didn't fix it for free. I gave them a flat price for the repair with a new FD and r407c. I just took my sweet time and got it squared away properly. I haven't heard back from them since then. Everything is still holding up. It's a old Bryant HP system. I think it's about 20 yrs old.

  10. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by BNME8EZ View Post
    A tip I got from this site years ago for nicked distributor tubes. Strip out a section of #18 stat wire. Wrap it around the tube where the leak is keeping the wire tight to itself. Then solder over the whole thing. The tight wrap on the wire keeps the solder from entering the distributor tube. I have done it a couple times.
    Pretty good idea

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  12. #69
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    I carry small copper and cap tubes for exactly that reason. An expander also helps. Do what you can as not everyone can afford a new coil or system. This also helps change TXV's and equalizer tubes.
    Doug

  13. #70
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    Thread Starter
    BTW.. that system already leaked out flat again at the beginning of last yrs Winter. LOLL
    wHen I diE I hOpe gOd haS mErcy oN my SiNful LifE

  14. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    You did good for what you were presented. Blame that on the installer for not inspecting that coil before commissioning.
    A little late to be blaming the installers for that one!

    I’ve seen plenty of newer units with friction holes on cap tubes, not installers job to disassemble a new unit to make sure it was built correctly.


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  15. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by mofotech View Post
    I would use the uv dye alot when I was new in the field. But later on and after a few messy dye situations I stopped using the dye. Now just my leak detector and big blue. If system last until end of summer after a refill then I will do isolation tests as that's the most guarantee way in finding a leak ; especially a stubborn one.
    Must have been the first or second time I used dye, disconnected hose and dye was under pressure and it exploded all over me, doctors office staff were worried, I found the leak but my ego left bruised.


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  17. #73
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    Wrong. Anything can happen during shipping.


    Quote Originally Posted by jlanesey View Post
    A little late to be blaming the installers for that one!

    I’ve seen plenty of newer units with friction holes on cap tubes, not installers job to disassemble a new unit to make sure it was built correctly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

  18. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlanesey View Post
    A little late to be blaming the installers for that one!

    I’ve seen plenty of newer units with friction holes on cap tubes, not installers job to disassemble a new unit to make sure it was built correctly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Oh contrary, it's in many IOM'S to do inspection.

  19. #75
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    Yeah, I have seen tube rubs on new systems as well as on system that originally had none. Best practice is if you are looking at cap/distributor tubes for any reason to check for tube rubs.

  20. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBeerme View Post
    Wrong. Anything can happen during shipping.
    Heroic post, love the red text. Doing a inspection of above coil wouldn’t have prevented this 10-20 year failure. Again, not my job to do QC in the field, I’ve got a lot of other things to worry about to make sure the customer is getting a quality install.

    I always check the basics, damaged cabinets, blower wheels centered on the shafts, pressure test on coil, if there is a manufacturers defect that doesn’t present itself for 10 years you should be pointing your finger at the manufacturer not the installer.


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  21. #77
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    I'm not Proud to do this...but customer could not afford new system or coil.

    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    Oh contrary, it's in many IOM'S to do inspection.
    So you would have cut off the manufacturer installed zip ties on the coil knowing that would prevent a failure in 20 years, give me a break. Installing equipment “correctly” isn’t an easy job. Hot shot service techs blaming every problem they ever see on the installers gets old quick.

    I can’t even begin to count how many times I’m there to change out equipment that the all star tech red tagged solely because they didn’t feel like fixing or were gunning for a commission.




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  22. #78
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    If you are not inspecting the coil, and associated distributor tubes during an install, you are not doing a quality install.

    In commercial, I'll look at the distributor tubes on a rather frequent basis. That's why it is called a PREVENTATIVE maintenance. If I did residential, I'd only look at those tubes if I had reason to pull the panel off.


    Quote Originally Posted by jlanesey View Post
    Heroic post, love the red text. Doing a inspection of above coil wouldn’t have prevented this 10-20 year failure. Again, not my job to do QC in the field, I’ve got a lot of other things to worry about to make sure the customer is getting a quality install.

    I always check the basics, damaged cabinets, blower wheels centered on the shafts, pressure test on coil, if there is a manufacturers defect that doesn’t present itself for 10 years you should be pointing your finger at the manufacturer not the installer.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

  23. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBeerme View Post
    If you are not inspecting the coil, and associated distributor tubes during an install, you are not doing a quality install.

    In commercial, I'll look at the distributor tubes on a rather frequent basis. That's why it is called a PREVENTATIVE maintenance. If I did residential, I'd only look at those tubes if I had reason to pull the panel off.
    I gut the AH in commercial and some residential settings because of where they are located and lighter to fit in easier! Everything gets inspected and flipped where necessary at that moment ....but I inspect everything when it comes out of the box due to concealed damage...

  24. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBeerme View Post
    If you are not inspecting the coil, and associated distributor tubes during an install, you are not doing a quality install.

    In commercial, I'll look at the distributor tubes on a rather frequent basis. That's why it is called a PREVENTATIVE maintenance. If I did residential, I'd only look at those tubes if I had reason to pull the panel off.
    So again, you would have cut off the zip ties that were installed by the factory knowing it would cause a problem in twenty years?

    Every install you do you pull the evap from the air handler to inspect both sides of the coil? You pull the jacket on every condensor to make sure no tubes are rubbing?

    If I had that little confidence in what I was selling / installing I’d be looking for another brand.


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