Climate master Heat pump

[samjohn]

Hi guys, first post in awile. Its my first time working on a system like this.
Climate master Heat pump-Tranquility-model#TTH072BGDC0Trps, Its fed off a Closed loop water system-which also feeds other HP units throughout the store.

The fault, when i got the call was the HI head pressure switch opened in cooing mode, i reset system it operated very well the time i was there cooling the area. These are the readings i got:
My delta T between water in and out was 15deg water supply temp was 80*F, and return 95*F. My suction pressure was 120psi and head was 380psi -(R410a)

The other units around have been operating ok, so I dont think its the main Geo- system loop. The problem is likely within this unit.
I checked back on the fault history and it had been faulting on same issue. I talked to owner who said this has been the same problem even in heat mode-through last winter. He said it runs well for awile then faults. Intermitant problem

Has anyone experienced something similar to this intermittent issue with these systems?

Thanks

[BNME8EZ]

If I had to guess I would say low water flow, 15° rise across the coax is above normal, usually around 10°. Check the pressure drop across the coax and compare that to the water flow chart to see how much water you are actually moving through the unit.

[buttwheat]

I don't do any Geo thermal stuff but I do work on water source heat pumps all the time. As kls said 15degrees is to high 8 to 10 degrees more ideal. Does it have a strainer? Maybe back flush the heat exchanger and clean the strain then adjust the circuit setter if it has one.

[airsummit]

We have 50+ of the ground Loop units in our hotel. In zone 3 they are not ideal for heating but seem to work OK (when they work) haha! Multiple problems with these rascals. Low flow alarms (4 code). Is the most popular. Staying on top of closed water loop maintenance is paramount. Regularly check glycol levels. Backflushing coax, and here lately. We've noticed corrosive buildup at the outlet valve assembly causing restrictions. Don't get me wrong we have to occasionally drop a unit and replace expansion valves too. But water flow is the key to keeping these little boogers happy!

[crispE]

Waterflow? Does the unit have its own flow center or is it a solenoid? Or is it twinned with a relay and paired with another pump. Pull off the spade terminals on the hipres switch and replace them with new. Ive seen quite a few spades where the insulation was crimped instead of bare wire. Thats a ****ing headache. The twinning boards solder joints crack, fix is to resolder with good solder, new boards will crack again. List goes on these are the simple fixes.
Picture of the relays.
http://www.google.com/search?q=flow+...63SkzPELAsD8M:

[gonefsihing]

If it has a zone valve it's probably not opening. I have a building with 150 of them and the zone valves suck. There is also an end switch on them so they won't start until made.

[heating_chicago]

Sounds to me like there’s a low water flow problemSome of these buildings have to up the pressure of the water to those lines that they share with the rest of the units in the building to solve that problem otherwise or sediment buildup somewhere along the lines restricting the flow

[Flezhen]

check on the water side of things. Should fix your issue.

[Flezhen]

whoops. I meants to check your strainer on the water side. That will fix things

[dooner90]

I've dealt with these phantom issues in a lot of residential spaces. The big one I see is a simple restriction in the refrigerant loop, and i'm talking about the TXV or filter drier causing the unit to drop out on HP.

120psi sound a little bit low for cooling a space with 410 in my experiece (I usually like to see those heat pumps run somewhere around 145). The lower pressure you've recorded may suggest a restriction.

So there's my first suggestion. I would also check to make sure your water hoses in the wall cabinet are not bent or obstructed in any way (if you have those metal flex-hoses). If the water flowing in/out is restricted then you're going to have higher pressures in the system

Last, i would check that Taco valve. What I'm refering to is the small 24v valve on the inlet water line. That thing is essentially just an end switch that opens/closes the supply water on demand. Make sure it working correctly.

[HoelscherCJ]

I have dealt with similar issues, on other brands of equipment first. Then when I switched to my current job, I have a building full of Climate Master water source heat pumps.

What I found out way back around 2013, Copeland put a coating on the stator of the compressor that didn't work well with R410A. The higher temps and pressures of R410A stripped the coating off of the stator and the coating basically turned into a super glue, and it would clog up driers, and then the TXV's.

Long story short the common denominator for all of the equipment that I worked on, with this particular issue, was they were all built in 2013-2014. I am still finding this same issue today.

So definitely check temp across the drier and look for frost on the leaving side of the txv.