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Thread: Ultra-aire ventilating dehumidifiers (versus Aprilaire)

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    Ultra-aire ventilating dehumidifiers (versus Aprilaire)

    Per Teddy Bear's recommendation, when I install my new Carrier Infinity system into my home, I am going to add a dehumidifier and some ventilation.

    TB recommended an Ultra-aire dehumidifier, but my contractor has no experience with that and wants to go with an Aprilaire dehumidifier. Are there any advantages to one over the other?

    Also, for ventilation, my contractor plans on just having a fresh air duct go from the outside to just before the filter on the return side, with no additional motor or anything special to move the air. Just a plain duct, with a damper in it, and the plan is for the blower motor on the furnace to do the work to draw the air in. But I see on the Ultra-aire that they have a "ventilating dehumidifier" that does both dehumidifying and ventilating at once. Why would these two things be combined? What makes the unit "ventilating?" If you have a duct from the outside draw air to the point right before ANY dehumidifier, doesn't that make it "ventilating?" Am I missing something here?

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ndeverest View Post
    Per Teddy Bear's recommendation, when I install my new Carrier Infinity system into my home, I am going to add a dehumidifier and some ventilation.

    TB recommended an Ultra-aire dehumidifier, but my contractor has no experience with that and wants to go with an Aprilaire dehumidifier. Are there any advantages to one over the other?

    Thanks!
    Hope you can move your contractor to try an Ultra-Aire, this the granddaddy of dehus, in production for almost 20 years.. This simple enough that any capable a/c contractor will be able to make a good install.
    The UA has the highest Energy Star rating of any dehu. The controller for the UA provides fresh air ventilation for an occupancy schedule.


    Quote Originally Posted by ndeverest View Post
    Also, for ventilation, my contractor plans on just having a fresh air duct go from the outside to just before the filter on the return side, with no additional motor or anything special to move the air. Just a plain duct, with a damper in it, and the plan is for the blower motor on the furnace to do the work to draw the air in. But I see on the Ultra-aire that they have a "ventilating dehumidifier" that does both dehumidifying and ventilating at once. Why would these two things be combined? What makes the unit "ventilating?" If you have a duct from the outside draw air to the point right before ANY dehumidifier, doesn't that make it "ventilating?" Am I missing something here?

    Thanks!
    This big. Best to install the fresh air intake in a way that you do not have to operate the fan to get fresh air. You need enough fresh air to change the air in the home in 4-5 hours. Also ventilation should be supplied when the home is occupied. This could be +12 hours per day. Operating the furnace fan this many hours is not practical. While the dehu fan uses a little over 120 watts. Also the dehu will bring in the fresh air and blend it with the house. The blended air is filtered by a Merv 11 air filter. The fresh air damper is operated by the DEH3000 controller capable of ON/Off or a occupancy timer. When the a/c operates enough to provide dehumidification, ventilation occurs without dehumidification. When the a/c does not run enough and the indoor %RH rises above the set point, the dehu operates. If fresh air is needed, the dehu removes the moisture before introducing the blending the fresh air into the home.
    I am sure your contractor wants the best dehu he can get. If any questions are left for him, we will assist him from the factory.
    I hope this helps. If all else fails, "An Aprilaire dehu is better than no dehu".
    Keep us posted.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  3. #3
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    TB,

    I am excited to have a fresh air duct -- I am REALLY glad you brought this to my attention earlier! I see the obvious wisdom in this. I can see that as long as I also have a dehumidifier in the summer or a humidifier in the winter, that this will change the feel of the whole system.

    But we like to have air moving all the time, so we actually keep the furnace fan on 24 hours a day. Does this make a difference in your recommendations?

    Note that even if the fan is in the "on" position, this will be overridden for five or so minutes after a cooling cycle, just to allow the coil to drain and prevent the rehumidification of the house (what Carrier calls SmartEvap Technology). But other than that, we will be running the fan all the time. This is just how we like it, and I am told that these fans are built to do this if we want.

    Also, isn't changing the air every 5-6 hours an awful lot? It seems that once every 24 hours would be enough. That's like opening the windows every day, which is more than most people do. I would think we wouldn't want to overdo it because we need to heat/cool/humidify/dehumidify that fresh air (which ones depend on the season, of course).

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ndeverest View Post
    TB,

    I am excited to have a fresh air duct -- I am REALLY glad you brought this to my attention earlier! I see the obvious wisdom in this. I can see that as long as I also have a dehumidifier in the summer or a humidifier in the winter, that this will change the feel of the whole system.

    But we like to have air moving all the time, so we actually keep the furnace fan on 24 hours a day. Does this make a difference in your recommendations?

    Note that even if the fan is in the "on" position, this will be overridden for five or so minutes after a cooling cycle, just to allow the coil to drain and prevent the rehumidification of the house (what Carrier calls SmartEvap Technology). But other than that, we will be running the fan all the time. This is just how we like it, and I am told that these fans are built to do this if we want.

    Also, isn't changing the air every 5-6 hours an awful lot? It seems that once every 24 hours would be enough. That's like opening the windows every day, which is more than most people do. I would think we wouldn't want to overdo it because we need to heat/cool/humidify/dehumidify that fresh air (which ones depend on the season, of course).

    Thanks!
    Stopping the fan for five minutes at the end of cooling cycle reduces evaporation by a few ozs. per cycle. The bulk of the moisture will re-evaporate back into the home. Not to worry, you will have a whole house dehu. Fan "ON" is deluxe for comfort and dry ducts.
    The air change rate of one per 4-5 hours is the minimum recommended when the home is occupied by ASHRAE, Am Medical ass., and the Am Lung Ass. The overall increase in heating cooling will less than $200 per year in most climates. This is a small price to pay for minimal indoor air pollutants and comfort.
    Opening the windows once a day makes for spikes of indoor pollutants, mainly formaldehyde.
    Provide fresh air whenever the home is occupied.
    keep us posted.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    Stopping the fan for five minutes at the end of cooling cycle reduces evaporation by a few ozs. per cycle. The bulk of the moisture will re-evaporate back into the home. Not to worry, you will have a whole house dehu. Fan "ON" is deluxe for comfort and dry ducts.
    The air change rate of one per 4-5 hours is the minimum recommended when the home is occupied by ASHRAE, Am Medical ass., and the Am Lung Ass. The overall increase in heating cooling will less than $200 per year in most climates. This is a small price to pay for minimal indoor air pollutants and comfort.
    Opening the windows once a day makes for spikes of indoor pollutants, mainly formaldehyde.
    Provide fresh air whenever the home is occupied.
    keep us posted.
    Regards TB
    TB,

    But is it OK to just have a plain duct to the outside, and let the motor from furnace pull it in? That is, there will be no fancy bells or whistles - not even a motor to assist bringing fresh air in. Just a simple duct from the outside that connects to the return side of things, right before the filter?

    Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndeverest View Post
    TB,

    But is it OK to just have a plain duct to the outside, and let the motor from furnace pull it in? That is, there will be no fancy bells or whistles - not even a motor to assist bringing fresh air in. Just a simple duct from the outside that connects to the return side of things, right before the filter?

    Thanks.
    Think about how hard it is going to be to come up with a way that you can connect a fresh air inlet to the air handler return and control the amount of fresh air that will enter when you are sucking on the duct with two different pressures. The low recirculation mode will create low suction while the a/c or heating mode will generate much more pressure. The harder you suck the more fresh air you going to get. Next, how will you not get fresh air when the home is not occupied?
    While the fresh air connected with an electric damper will open when you decide or on a schedule. The fan sucks with a uniform pressure regardless of function. You open a flow damper to specific spot and the pressure is uniform.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    Think about how hard it is going to be to come up with a way that you can connect a fresh air inlet to the air handler return and control the amount of fresh air that will enter when you are sucking on the duct with two different pressures. The low recirculation mode will create low suction while the a/c or heating mode will generate much more pressure. The harder you suck the more fresh air you going to get. Next, how will you not get fresh air when the home is not occupied?
    While the fresh air connected with an electric damper will open when you decide or on a schedule. The fan sucks with a uniform pressure regardless of function. You open a flow damper to specific spot and the pressure is uniform.
    Regards TB
    Yes, I see the problem with different fan speeds if you rely on the blower motor of the unit itself. But what is the solution? My contractor wants me to get the Aprilaire model 8126 which has a programmable damper on it, but it still relies on the blower motor for the furnace. That doesn't solve the problem; it just uses sensors to make sure that you don't take in fresh air when it's too hot, cold or humid. If you rely on the blower motor of a variable speed furnace you will always have the problem you described.

    What product is there that assures you take in fresh air with a constant CFM? I see that the ultra-aire has a "ventilating dehumidifier" (the original subject of my post) but it just doesn't make sense to me how both ventilation and dehumidification can be combined into one unit. You don't always want to dehumidify when you are ventilating (in the winter, for example, in Nebraska). I am confused!! Please clarify this.

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    Eta
    Quote Originally Posted by ndeverest View Post
    Yes, I see the problem with different fan speeds if you rely on the blower motor of the unit itself. But what is the solution? My contractor wants me to get the Aprilaire model 8126 which has a programmable damper on it, but it still relies on the blower motor for the furnace. That doesn't solve the problem; it just uses sensors to make sure that you don't take in fresh air when it's too hot, cold or humid. If you rely on the blower motor of a variable speed furnace you will always have the problem you described.

    What product is there that assures you take in fresh air with a constant CFM? I see that the ultra-aire has a "ventilating dehumidifier" (the original subject of my post) but it just doesn't make sense to me how both ventilation and dehumidification can be combined into one unit. You don't always want to dehumidify when you are ventilating (in the winter, for example, in Nebraska). I am confused!! Please clarify this.
    Ndeverest,
    Did you ever get answer to this question? I'm trying to embark on getting whole house dehumidification (Indianapolis area) and am having hard time understanding what to ask for/make sure I get regarding the fresh air.
    Also, having hard time finding Ultra-Aire contractor in my area.
    Thanks. I've been reading this forum for months and months. Too bad my dad had to get Alzheimer's or he could have helped me along.
    This site is a great resource for info! Btw, I know old post but still good info for upcoming summer and humidity probs (among many others).
    Amy
    Last edited by Amyalex; 04-17-2016 at 01:21 AM. Reason: Eta

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amyalex View Post
    Eta

    Ndeverest,
    Did you ever get answer to this question? I'm trying to embark on getting whole house dehumidification (Indianapolis area) and am having hard time understanding what to ask for/make sure I get regarding the fresh air.
    Also, having hard time finding Ultra-Aire contractor in my area.
    Thanks. I've been reading this forum for months and months. Too bad my dad had to get Alzheimer's or he could have helped me along.
    This site is a great resource for info! Btw, I know old post but still good info for upcoming summer and humidity probs (among many others).
    Amy
    The ULtra-Aire DEH3000 controller will bring in fresh air whenever called for by the occupancy schedule. The dehumidifier only operates when the indoor %RH is above the setting. These are two different function. But both may occur at the same time.
    Not sure how I missed the previous posters question.
    Hope this helps. Make sure to follow the install instructions at Ultra-Aire. com for the dehumidifier and fresh air ducting. We have some good installers from your area that participate on this forum.
    Keep us posted.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

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    Confused

    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    The ULtra-Aire DEH3000 controller will bring in fresh air whenever called for by the occupancy schedule. The dehumidifier only operates when the indoor %RH is above the setting. These are two different function. But both may occur at the same time.
    Not sure how I missed the previous posters question.
    Hope this helps. Make sure to follow the install instructions at Ultra-Aire. com for the dehumidifier and fresh air ducting. We have some good installers from your area that participate on this forum.
    Keep us posted.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    TeddyBear,
    Hi. Thanks for following up on this old thread. Do you know of installers in Indianapolis area that are really good I can work with for Ultra aire install?
    Hope I can ask that question. I did send email to Ultra-aire directly but thought you may know.i know how important the installer/s is/are! And I want to try and get done right.

    So when deverest asked about the fresh air - I think he said they/installer wanted to have just pipe to outdoors somewhere. Will DEH3000 controller control this? Or will Ultra-Aire have the fresh air intake setup differently? I can't picture or my wrap my brain around how they/Ultra-aire or anyone for that matter can get fresh air on demand into home - like not when high outdoor dew point, etc. With the DEH controller, is there a damper on the intake? And this should be able to run/work without the HVAC system's blower running? Or does it need the blower/air handler to suck in fresh air?
    And when I get new HVAC with the ultra-aire (I'm guessing best to do both at same time sense useful life of current HVAC coming to end I think) I will be able to run the dehumidifier without A/C
    Through same ductwork? Geez,sorry.

    Like in my condo (HVAC in garage, condenser out front on east side sun, unfortunately some ducts in attic). The whole house Dehumdifier attaches to HVAC in garage, but they still need to add fresh air intake.

    And where would the fresh air intake - or where should it be proposed to install, so I know it will work?
    The second floor (with open tall great room to loft areas) is always 3-4 degrees hotter and last summer humidity levels got to 60 RH. I will be replacing windows - which will affect all testing for sizing of new HVAC system, correct? Should I even consider split system for my 2 level but open condo?
    And I'm on a slab. (Just FYI stuff here) sorry.

    I will be having blower door test, etc done first so I can have ducts fixed if needed and leaks addressed, including crummy builder grade windows.. How much will adding/increasing insulation in attic help whole situation - indoor RH, upstairs much warmer all year, etc?
    And I'm confused on which manuals test needed: J (whole house?), D (each room?) which I should have too?

    So the ultra-aire has its own filter correct? Which you say merv 11, correct? Can the ultra aire be mounted to ceiling of garage where my HVAC is in my condo? I've seen some other brands that have that option for limited space issues - which I have.

    And if I have room in my garage (weird setup in my condo), I want to add an air purifier filter thing - multi media best? I may be using wrong term here. We have alllergy probs and the cheap filters my HVAC guy says to use (less stress on system they say) don't seem to do much.

    And this new filter/air purification - it should be installed before aire goes thru anything else? Will this filter put added stress HVAC guys who come out always talk about on the whole system?

    Ugh. so many diff companies giving different solutions and some make no sense compared to what I have learned here.

    Sorry for my ignorance - I hope to be able to seem like I know what in talking about and find good company/installers cuz will need new HVAC soon too and want to be prepared - not have to buy when it dies in July on a Sunday! :-)

    Thank you TB if u have time to respond! Do you ever take consultant phone calls? - for a fee of course . u can tell I'm not a DIY-r. Just trying to learn and make best possible decisions.
    Maybe I won't sound like total moron and get taken with this forum's help.

  11. #11
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    TB,
    Your "Bear rules" say use Merv 10 filter. But every HVAC guy jp has told me to use cheapest cuz these higher merv filters put too much stress on system. so I'm curious about your thoughts on this! Amongst the other 100 things I asked. Thank you so very much!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amyalex View Post
    TB,
    Your "Bear rules" say use Merv 10 filter. But every HVAC guy jp has told me to use cheapest cuz these higher merv filters put too much stress on system. so I'm curious about your thoughts on this! Amongst the other 100 things I asked. Thank you so very much!
    Those hvac guys are talking improperly sized 1" filters. When using high efficiency 1" filters, you must keep the surface area high enough that the air velocity is less than 300 fpm. On a three ton system, this requires 24x24 filters. Thus, they tell you to stick to the cheapest that work in the 600 fpm range because they don't sell filter racks that size.

    Make sense?
    Perhaps you should have read the instructions before calling.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amyalex View Post
    TeddyBear,
    Hi. Thanks for following up on this old thread. Do you know of installers in Indianapolis area that are really good I can work with for Ultra aire install?
    Hope I can ask that question. I did send email to Ultra-aire directly but thought you may know.i know how important the installer/s is/are! And I want to try and get done right.

    So when deverest asked about the fresh air - I think he said they/installer wanted to have just pipe to outdoors somewhere. Will DEH3000 controller control this? Or will Ultra-Aire have the fresh air intake setup differently? I can't picture or my wrap my brain around how they/Ultra-aire or anyone for that matter can get fresh air on demand into home - like not when high outdoor dew point, etc. With the DEH controller, is there a damper on the intake? And this should be able to run/work without the HVAC system's blower running? Or does it need the blower/air handler to suck in fresh air?
    And when I get new HVAC with the ultra-aire (I'm guessing best to do both at same time sense useful life of current HVAC coming to end I think) I will be able to run the dehumidifier without A/C
    Through same ductwork? Geez,sorry.

    help.
    Pipe a min of 6" insulated fresh air inlet from outdoors to the Ultra-Aire dehu return. If +15 ft. of fresh air duct is needed, upsize to a 8" insulated duct. Locate fresh air pickup 1 ft about the ground away from the clothes drier and other exhausts to avoid polluted air. Install a electric damper that is controlled by the DEH 3000 controller in the fresh air inlet. Fresh air is supplied when the home is occupied and not limited to when the outdoor is ideal. It's a small price to pay for indoor air quality and the moisture is easily handled by your a/c and dehumidifier. Currently we use a merv 11 filter of adequate size to handle. All filters should be large enough and a minimum of merv 11. As others have posted, Air handlers need the 24" X 24" X 4" filters. In large systems a couple could be needed. Filters last until noticeably dirty before changing. It could take a year.
    Ideal to install with an independent dehu supply to the a/c supply and independent return from outside and open part of inside, the air handler does not need to function.


    Quote Originally Posted by Amyalex View Post
    TeddyBear,
    Hi.s
    Like in my condo (HVAC in garage, condenser out front on east side sun, unfortunately some ducts in attic). The whole house Dehumdifier attaches to HVAC in garage, but they still need to add fresh air intake.

    And where would the fresh air intake - or where should it be proposed to install, so I know it will work?
    The second floor (with open tall great room to loft areas) is always 3-4 degrees hotter and last summer humidity levels got to 60 RH. I will be replacing windows - which will affect all testing for sizing of new HVAC system, correct? Should I even consider split system for my 2 level but open condo?
    And I'm on a slab. (Just FYI stuff here) sorry.

    I will be having blower door test, etc done first so I can have ducts fixed if needed and leaks addressed, including crummy builder grade windows.. How much will adding/increasing insulation in attic help whole situation - indoor RH, upstairs much warmer all year, etc?
    And I'm confused on which manuals test needed: J (whole house?), D (each room?) which I should have too?

    So the ultra-aire has its own filter correct? Which you say merv 11, correct? Can the ultra aire be mounted to ceiling of garage where my HVAC is in my condo? I've seen some other brands that have that option for limited space issues - which I have.

    And if I have room in my garage (weird setup in my condo), I want to add an air purifier filter thing - multi media best? I may be using wrong term here. We have alllergy probs and the cheap filters my HVAC guy says to use (less stress on system they say) don't seem to do much.

    And this new filter/air purification - it should be installed before aire goes thru anything else? Will this filter put added stress HVAC guys who come out always talk about on the whole system?

    Ugh. so many diff companies giving different solutions and some make no sense compared to what I have learned here.

    Sorry for my ignorance - I hope to be able to seem like I know what in talking about and find good company/installers cuz will need new HVAC soon too and want to be prepared - not have to buy when it dies in July on a Sunday! :-)

    Thank you TB if u have time to respond! Do you ever take consultant phone calls? - for a fee of course . u can tell I'm not a DIY-r. Just trying to learn and make best possible decisions.
    Maybe I won't sound like total moron and get taken with this forum's help.
    Locating in the garage ok near air handler. Minimize pollutants in space and tape any air leaking gapes. Start with merv 11 filters, fresh air ventilation, and maintain 50%RH in your home. This should provide indoor air quality. Maintaining warm dry indoor temps will minimize the indoor biologicals.
    No charge for comments on question.
    I would start with the contractor that services or will install your cooling equipment for a source of the Ultra-Aire. We at Ultra-Aire should be able to help them get the install right.
    Keep us posted.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    Pipe a min of 6" insulated fresh air inlet from outdoors to the Ultra-Aire dehu return. If +15 ft. of fresh air duct is needed, upsize to a 8" insulated duct. Locate fresh air pickup 1 ft about the ground away from the clothes drier and other exhausts to avoid polluted air. Install a electric damper that is controlled by the DEH 3000 controller in the fresh air inlet. Fresh air is supplied when the home is occupied and not limited to when the outdoor is ideal. It's a small price to pay for indoor air quality and the moisture is easily handled by your a/c and dehumidifier. Currently we use a merv 11 filter of adequate size to handle. All filters should be large enough and a minimum of merv 11. As others have posted, Air handlers need the 24" X 24" X 4" filters. In large systems a couple could be needed. Filters last until noticeably dirty before changing. It could take a year.
    Ideal to install with an independent dehu supply to the a/c supply and independent return from outside and open part of inside, the air handler does not need to function.




    Locating in the garage ok near air handler. Minimize pollutants in space and tape any air leaking gapes. Start with merv 11 filters, fresh air ventilation, and maintain 50%RH in your home. This should provide indoor air quality. Maintaining warm dry indoor temps will minimize the indoor biologicals.
    No charge for comments on question.
    I would start with the contractor that services or will install your cooling equipment for a source of the Ultra-Aire. We at Ultra-Aire should be able to help them get the install right.
    Keep us posted.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Here is a post from a contractor from your area. He has been around here a long time and knows his stuff. You can email him by using his contract info.

    Baldloonie is his handle.
    Here is a copy of one of his post.

    BaldLoonie's Avatar BaldLoonie BaldLoonie is offline
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    1 or 2 stage has nothing to do with efficiency. Just how the company designed it. Most brands when you get into the high SEER go 2 stage as an added selling point. For some reason, Lennox chose not to with that model. It is a real nice unit, very quiet, all aluminum plate fin coil, only thing like it on the market.

    Some will say you have to have 2 stage for humidity control but since low isn't that much lower than high - usually 75-80% if you look at the ratings, to me it isn't a real big deal. I like the dehumdify on demand feature of the nice controls that slows the blower if the humidity is high. Watching my hygrometer when I kick that on says it makes a big difference. And of course, no A/C dehumidifies when it is off so smallest one you can get. If still have humidity issues, one of Teddy Bear's whole house dehums makes sense.

    Personally I'd rather have Rheem than Carrier
    Hope this helps.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

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    Thanks so much! I will find Baldloonie's contact info.

    Also, I have the crummy little builder grade 16" x 20" x 1" filter - guess that's why they say use cheapest filters. I will see if we can make room for upgraded 24 x 24 x 4 filter box. Excuse my terminology if incorrect!
    I will be so happy to get dehu installed correctly and comfortable indoor AQ.
    I'm hoping my new window install will help some leakage too.

  16. #16
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    Hi TB,

    Is it overkill to get BOTH an Aprilaire 5000 air purifier AND an Ultra Aire dehumidifier? We're in cold, damp San Francisco.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by CatherineSF View Post
    Hi TB,

    Is it overkill to get BOTH an Aprilaire 5000 air purifier AND an Ultra Aire dehumidifier? We're in cold, damp San Francisco.
    You need a dehumidifier, Ultra-Aire, if your indoor %RH is +55%RH for significant periods of time. CA. costal climate varies with actual location next to coast. A small whole house dehumidifier will maintain 50%RH and supply a small amount of fresh air when occupied if you use fresh air ventilation option.
    The Aprilaire filter should be used on you heating/cooling air handler and is not related to humidity control.
    Hope this helps.
    Keep us posted
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

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