Only this one...
http://www.mikeholt.com/productitem....=All&type=Book
Although bonding and grounding is a fundamental topic in electrical theory, it amazes me how much confusion it can cause. Does anyone have any good resources to share, which would help others better understand how to design and install Code-compliant installations? I'm interested in any books, articles, research documents or misc. reference materials that I could pass along to my readers.
Only this one...
http://www.mikeholt.com/productitem....=All&type=Book
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
Member, IAEI
AOP Forum Rules:
Soares Book on Grounding and Bonding, 2011-NEC
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
We use a big hammer drill to put our grounding rods in. We turn the switch to hammer only and lock it so it can't be turned to spin. A safety person is ready to pull the plug. All of our outdoor permanent equipment that's on the ground has its own grounding rod. Rooftop equipment is grounded via the lightening grounds, our older buildings lack this system.
That raises a couple of points.
Grounding electrodes (in this case, rods)
1) are not required at each piece of equipment, and the equipment MUST have a equipment grounding conductor other than the electrodes, if installed, in order to provide a low impedance path to assist in opening the overcurrent device(s) that feed a given piece of equipment
2) cannot be used with lighting protection equipment, which must have its OWN electrodes
Buildings from a time when grounding conductors were not being installed are not protected for ground fault or overcurrent protection, as the additional grounding conductor and electrode are not connected at the panel. The earth resistance is too great to open the overcurrent device(s) should a fault occur. Supplementary grounding electrodes and their grounding conductors can be connected together so that all are electrically connected to the panel entrance neutral, and then protection for ground fault and short circuit events will be in place.
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
Member, IAEI
AOP Forum Rules:
Grounding to the "EXTREME"
I've worked on buildings that were grounded to a "star" ground. It had "many" rods pounded into the ground and then criss crossed with wire. These buildings were comp labs. They also had lightning rods on top with #6 wire run across the perimeter and on my package units. Inside the building above the grid ceiling there was another large bare (#6?)ground wire where individual pieces of equipment were grounded again. Someone told me that the equipment and the info on it was "priceless" and the grounding system was an insurance policy.
Thanks Timebuilder!
We're well aware of Mike Holt and his products. Mike serves as our main NEC Consultant for the magazine. We also sell many of his training products through EC&M Books. He does a wonderful job of explaining the NEC rules and requirements is a clear and concise manner.
Mike Eby
Editor-in-Chief, EC&M Magazine
http://www.ecmweb.com
Article 250 of the NEC has every thing you need to know about grounding and bonding.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ufer_ground
Depending upon your soil conditions, an EGC rod driven may not suffice.
Also, many bonding jumpers at meters I find either disconnected or inadequate. There was a local plumber electrocuted about 15yrs ago when he went to disconnect a jumper at the meter without first installing an automotive jumper cable across the meter.
Also look into bonding requirements for metal frame construction. A technician was killed in Fla. a few years back when he went to install a dryer vent and contacted an energized metal stud wall.
As for CSST, note the new lightning strike resistant technologies by mfr. and the rules for applications with the new vs. old. For instance, you cannot route old style CSST through a chase that contains a metallic vent or chimney. Typically you are allowed to use the new technology in such applications.
Another common no-no is attaching CSST directly to the cabinet of an appliance such as with conduit clips--no longer allowed unless new technology. Otherwise, needs to be electrically isolated from the appliance except for gas connection to valve.
A lot of guys will bond CSST to a water line and think they're ok. If the street service is plastic, this is useless.
Gas piping can NOT be used to conduct electricity. It may have to be bonded but never used as a neutral.
There is no prescription for bonding fireplaces and metal chimneys or liners at this time. Nobody has figured out the bonding clamp. I have in the past used aluminum bonding adapters that allowed me to bond a #6 solid copper wire to a steel 'I' beam but think about it--it that bond takes a high amperage hit from lightning, that aluminum clamp will be a puddle of molten aluminum in a fraction of a second much like a fuse.
Before you drive EGC rods, call your local Dig Safe authority and have the underground lines marked. The liability is huge and your insurance may not cover it if you screw up.
HTH
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
Question for you about the CSST Heartman...
Are you refering to not electrically bonding the CSST to the appliance cabnet? I would have thought the CSST would be electrically bonded to the appliance when the metalic gas connection fittings are attached between the CSST and the gas inlet (to my knowledge, the gaskets in the fittings don't act as dielectrics).
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
Member, IAEI
AOP Forum Rules:
There are two questions in the area of CSST:
1) bonding CSST to help eliminate perforations due to lightning strikes to or near to the property. The NEC has distanced itself from this situation. There is an ongoing discussion in committees about this issue.
2) bonding the CSST to comply with NEC 250.104 B, which states that gas piping is a type of "other metal piping" that must be bonded to the electrical system. Because gas piping often serves appliances like ranges and dryers that ALSO use electricity, the gas piping falls under the category of "likely to become energized," and therefore it falls under the bonding provision requirements of the article in question.
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
Member, IAEI
AOP Forum Rules:
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
Member, IAEI
AOP Forum Rules:
I'm actually going to be in Orlanda next week on business and will have dinner with Mike one night while I'm there. I'll also see him a few times late in the year when we join forces with him to offer some 2014 Code Change Conferences in Seattle, Boston, St. Louis and Philadelphia.
Mike Eby
Editor-in-Chief, EC&M Magazine
http://www.ecmweb.com
Great! Let me know when you are coming to Philly!
The building codes have deferred the issue of bonding CSST to each mfr.. Since all this lightning litigation has come up, several mfrs have developed their own optional CSST products that have additional bonding intrinsic to the polyester jacket extrusion, such as Trac Pipe's "CounterStrike" and Gastite's "FlashShield" products. The basic concept is to provide more mass to handle the over current and allow it to dissipate to a good ground. Most installers will get into trouble by taking short cuts in the bonding to the EGC such as hopping over to a nearby pipe. Read the listed instructions. Most will require bonding at in the distribution panel at the buss bar or directly outside to the EGC when you are using CSST right off the meter or MP regulator with LPG systems.
I highly recommend anyone who got certified years ago to take a refresher in your brand of CSST the next time the rep. is around.
Mike, there is talk of bonding all factory built fireplaces and metallic chimneys but currently, I'm not aware of any mfr. who makes a tested or listed bonding clamp or attachment device. Sure, you can get one of those aluminum bonding devices from your local supply house and screw it against the side of the sheet metal but is that sufficient? Does it work? What size/ type screw? What is the best/ approved attachment point? Does it have to mount directly to the metallic vent system or can it attach to the appliance outer wrap? How are we to bond thin-walled metallic chimney liners? These are problems both for mfrs. and those promulgating these codes and stds.. You have to have these questions answered before you can write a code/ std. that you expect people to comply with.
Another issue I have is access to rooftops crossing over power lines. In urban and commercial settings, it is common for the only roof access to be where a ladder must be raised over and in close proximity to energized power lines and service entrance cables. The use of fiberglass ladders alone is insufficient protection for the technician and calling the utility to apply dielectric rubber blankets and covers is not feasible for service calls. We need solutions. Same for weather heads and masts located at the only ladder access point. What should be the minimum clearance? Fun stuff but one that almost fried me not too long ago.
I'm not the sparky Timebuilder is but would love to sit in and chat a little when you're in Philly. TB and I meet about once a year for lunch and we're due before long.
Thx,
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
Actually, we are overdue. I meant to sit in on Jim's class in January, but I could not make it.
Better catch me before I move to Kansas!
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
Member, IAEI
AOP Forum Rules: