Trane O-rings/ gasket leaks

[Aust chiltech]

Rover
I will dig up my overhaul manuals and scan the pages. PM your email and happy to send over. cheers

[rahzip]

I had an same older machine with four bolt flanges that were in bad shape. I had the gaskets made out of a garlock type of material and used them instead of the rubber gaskets.
Check to make sure the gasket material is compatible with the refrigerant the machine uses.

[trama]

new trane machines have the thinner flanges and gaskets replaced by a thick, approx 1.5 inches, flange and a gasket simmilar to what you find on a recip head or valve plate, this is always an option to upgrade but that means a bit of welding and fitting of the new flanges.

[joey94]

okay guys, its been a long time since I've been on this forum and I figured I would share the solution to the leaking gaskets and o-rings on the Trane chillers with you. You need to totally submerse the entire chiller in river water for 4-5 days and this will seal your leaks. this happened to us during super storm sandy and we haven't had leaks since. We went from leaks every 6 months, to not one in almost 2 years.

[henpeck]

We need pics

[mesahvac]

We use Dow111 grease for the elbow to suction cover o-ring. (I also use this grease on RTHC/D oil filter o-rings. with the oil filter mounted in the vertical, it can be difficult to get the o-ring to stay in place while installing the oil filter. Dow111 is very thick and holds the o-ring quite well.) As for the suction ell to suction cover, you don't want any 515 because of sticking vanes, so the Dow111 is perfect.

As far as tightening the bolts on the suction ell, there is an exact procedure for proper tightening and it can be found in the Installation/ disassemble-reassemble manual CVHE-SVN04A-EN.

From the manual:
Tighten two retaining bolts, 180
degrees apart at the compressor
connection. Then tighten two
bolts, 180 degrees apart at the
evaporator connection. Alternate
between connections until all
retaining bolts are tight. Table 3 illustrates the
bolt tightening sequence and
provides bolt torque
specifications.

Table 3 in the manual gives a great visual illustration of the sequence. And don't forget to properly torque the bolts! Use these techniques and you'll have a leak free suction ell.

As for the economizer, join the club, those bastards leak all the time. But everyone else has been right on with their advice. More bolt holes in the flanges, be very very clean, put nothing on flat gaskets, and use proper torque for the bolts, and use grade 8 bolts.

Chiller man I am having trouble finding this service bulletin. Can you email to me please

E-mail addy NOT allowed in posts per site rules. You may put it in your profile.

Mod Team

[berch4]

Chiller Man, I have a 400 ton CVHF open right now.
Presently working on the suction elbow.
Any chance you could email me a copy of the CVHE-SVN04A-EN manual you mentioned?
Thanks.
Rick Berchtold
Sorry, email addresses are not permitted in post. Please put it in your profile, thank you.

[R123]

Chiller Man, I have a 400 ton CVHF open right now.
Presently working on the suction elbow.
Any chance you could email me a copy of the CVHE-SVN04A-EN manual you mentioned?
Thanks.
Rick Berchtold

Dude, didn’t you read the post prior to yours???

[klimbo123]

Install the retrofit flange kit on the lower econo flanges. No liquid of any kind on flat gaskets. That means degrease and blow dry the crack between the flange and pipe. Scuff flat gaskets with sandpaper. Find reason for suction ell leak. Did rust penetrate beyound the o ring? If so anything you can do to keep the rust out will extend regasket time. All rust should be removed from surfaces. Add another bead of 515 to the outer edge to completely fill the gap. Use the teflon string on the upper suction ell flange in addition to the o ring. Oil or grease stg 1 vanes where they fit to suction cover to prevent sealant from sticking in the joint. Degrease all joints before applying 515. Entire o ring must wet with 515. I use enough 515 so that a bit oozes out of the joint all the way around. Use proper bolt tightening sequence on bolts to make suction ell as close fitting as possible. Use plenty of paint on outside of machine. Start with a coat of glyptal while evacuating. Insulate cold areas to keep moisture out. Original gaskets last about 10 years. Tutuapp 9apps Showbox Regaskets can last nearly as long with attention to detail. Flat gaskets do shrink. Periodic snugging of flat gaskets (don't overtighten so that gasket squishes out) and painting if done before rust penetrates will extend joint life. These ideas are not all what the factory recommends but I have found them to work over time.

yes I confirm that it works with time but it takes a little time just wait

[jobscoop]

totally agreed

[CHILLERSVCMAN]

Weld the flange to the chiller barrel . Been doing this for the past several years . My friend in North Carolina is doing same thing . If it has to come apart again cut the liquid line and weld it back together .

[CHILLERSVCMAN]

I have repaired YORK YTs with corroded charging lines at the chiller barrel . I love the feel of hot sparks landing on me .

[Healey Nut]

Weld the flange to the chiller barrel . Been doing this for the past several years . My friend in North Carolina is doing same thing . If it has to come apart again cut the liquid line and weld it back together .

Nothing like a redneck repair to stop a simple leak that can be addressed with proper gasket and face preparation.

[vicyclefive]

Have you noticed all the new service valves come with a factory crimped top with no way to remove the piston to get to the O-ring? Bummer.