ReplyagreedOriginally Posted by t527ed
if your going cheap you better put it in the garage so its easy to service and replace.
ATTIC
GARAGE
Professional Member*
Yeah i work for Trane in the product developement lab. But i have no field experience with residential install only commercial duct install b4 i moved to Tyler.
Professional Member*
agreedif your going cheap you better put it in the garage so its easy to service and replace.
Professional Member*
Still not sure if thats the way i go, i have a neighboor with a license who can get me Fridgerdair....
Professional Member*
WHAT?????
Y in the world are you considering anything else???
Although I can see Y at the same time...Trane is such a Proud company.
Professional Member*
I wouldnt do that....Nordyne
Professional Member*
It is all about cost, believe me if i could i would install an XL20i BUT the cost is too much right now, maybe i'll use the window units till i save for the better equipment...
I think we should get this thread back on track, if i do install the higher end equipement would the attic install be better? I could save on the metal duct, never have been a fan of the flex stuff.
Professional Member*
My best advice is spend any extra you can on better equipment and not rerouting it to the garage.
Lets say that with the better equipment you are using 3 amps less power than the base unit. At .10/kWh the savings per month in the hot summer months will be 21.60*. Thats over 200 bucks a year. This is based on a/c running 10 hrs a day 30days/month @240v. So my theory is pay now...save later...or save now...pay forever.
*Five Two One Compressor saver energy cost chart
Professional Member*
My house, if it had no central HVAC system? Air handler IN THE HOUSE and ducts in drop ceiling IN THE HOUSE, period. As a compromise, make the attic conditioned space and run the ducts through there. Either way, the HVAC system NEVER is outside the air pressure boundary of the home's thermal envelope.
Psychrometrics: the very foundation of HVAC. A comfort troubleshooter's best friend.
Professional Member*
This would be great if i had 10ft ceilings, but i have just under 8ft, with a drop ceiling would be way too low.
Professional Member*
Given a choice between two evils (garage or attic), I would opt for the garage, but I would NOT use building materials for the return air plenum. It would be solid sheet metal, sealed, and insulated, from the return grill inside the house to the air handler in the garage.
Regardless, local codes dictate whether air handlers/furnaces can go in a garage or not. If the garage was a no-go by code, I'd start looking to give up closet space inside the house before I'd consider the attic. But that's just me.
Psychrometrics: the very foundation of HVAC. A comfort troubleshooter's best friend.
Professional Member*
How do i check code for my area?
Professional Member*
If you are in an incorporated area, such as Tyler is, you should be able to contact city hall and speak with a building code official. Many cities put such information online; at minimum they may state which version of the International Residential Construction Code (IRCC) they bind the city residents to. The IRCC pertaining to your area should be searchable online or available at the reference desk of your local public library.
Psychrometrics: the very foundation of HVAC. A comfort troubleshooter's best friend.
Professional Member*
Thanks shophound for the info.
Professional Member*
According to city hall we use the 2006 International Mechanical Code in Tyler. I guess i will have to take a trip to the library....
Regular Guest
Go metal ducts and garage install.
I hate Saran wrap ducts and attic installs look like pure hell for service.
Professional Member*
How would you handle the temp difference from one end of the house to the other? Or is it irrelevant with a good duct design and installation?
Professional Member*
You likely ask that question based on your experience with cooling your home via window units. A properly designed and installed central air system should minimize temperature differences across the house when the system is running. There are many variables to consider for this to happen, including looking at the house itself, such as window shading, insulation levels, air leakage through walls and ceilings (and floors if on a crawl space or basement), etc.
Psychrometrics: the very foundation of HVAC. A comfort troubleshooter's best friend.
Professional Member*
House is tight but could be tighter, planning to insulate the floor anyway. ACCA load calc claims 3 tons. Was told to upsize to 3 1/2 due to R410a not cooling as effectively above 95F. Any thought an that?
Professional Member*
Just talked to building inspector, Garage install allowed if enclosed with self closing door, 18" minimun platform with intake air from outside of house.
Have seriously started thinking about hanging it from the garage ceiling and enclosing it there...
Regular Guest
You were told wrong.
