Friend of mine wants to install a propane fire log into the existing fireplace
Whats the proper way to run the pipe ?
Tank is going right outside the wall
I assume you just run copper pipe into the crawl then up into the fireplace flooring ?
Are the propane tank guys going to require a permit before they fill it ?
Im not a plumber ....
You can’t use copper. Follow local codes. The one time I helped we drilled through the chimney into the fireplace. If you have a plumber friend use him.
Says who? See copper all the time. As you mentioned...check your local codes. I realize some jurisdictions don't allow copper but I would say they are the minority in NA.
Says who? See copper all the time. As you mentioned...check your local codes. I realize some jurisdictions don't allow copper but I would say they are the minority in NA.
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I’m no plumber as you can tell. My experience is with natural gas. My mistake. Although I still like the idea of using black pipe.
As I said we drilled through the fireplace from outside the house and penetrated just inside the fireplace. Where you can make up the final connections. It takes a long bit and hammer drill capable of doing the job is all. Same for the copper if that’s what you want to use.
I’m no plumber as you can tell. My experience is with natural gas. My mistake. Although I still like the idea of using black pipe.
As I said we drilled through the fireplace from outside the house and penetrated just inside the fireplace. Where you can make up the final connections. It takes a long bit and hammer drill capable of doing the job is all. Same for the copper if that’s what you want to use.
Copper is approved by the gas codes UNLESS you have greater than 0.3 grains of hydrogen sulphide per 100 SCF. Your LP provider will advise you but understand most of the country uses soft copper for LPG. If you want to use steel pipe through the wall, it should be galvanized steel unless too much H2S. Otherwise, you'll have to paint the pipe first. Also, it should be sleeved through the masonry.
With a DOT LP cylinder right next to the chimney, you can use a combination first and second stage regulator under the bonnet of the tank. It is recommended to have a sediment trap protecting the logset though not required on fireplaces. Put a shutoff inside the firebox for service then a flexible appliance connector to the logset.
Before you charge off installing gas logs understand you must perform a level II inspection of the chimney per NFPA 211. If it is not suitable for burning wood, it is not suitable for vented logs. If ventfree logs, it still must be intact. The profile gap between the damper frame and facade must be sealed with refractory mortar. Check your clearances to the combustible mantel facing esp. with VF. If vented logs, you will need to remove the damper or block it wide open to maintain the stated "minimum PERMANENT net free opening" stated in the instructions. If you have a remote control, the damper must be left wide open. Otherwise you can close it to the MPNFO but why? You can install glass doors to minimize the cold downdrafts. Fix the house and the cold air till abate. Understand vented logs entrain about 400-600 CFM while burning and a good 100CFM at standby so they are energy losers. VF logs cannot be installed in a lot of areas so do your homework.
HTH
It's actually required around Philly by PECO for exterior piping because their gas is scrubbed. Gotta' check with the utility. Zinc sulphide flakes can clog a valve just as copper sulphide black flakes can. That's why I incorporate a sediment trap in all my installs even though not required.
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Originally Posted by Snapperhead
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