New old furnace for the the garage

[heatingman]

The furnace and coil are not new, but the price was right. Did the entire duct system and attic finish as part of the project.

AC yet to be installed - its cold out now.









The relays are for my thermostat selector set up. I have a upstairs and downstairs thermostat to control the temp where I will be working. Each thermostat has a toggle switch nearby to force control from the thermostat I want.


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[heatingman]

Supply elbow


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[chander]

Nice work, that is too nice to hide behind walls!

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[dandyme]

Is conduit code requirement or personal preference?

[WAYNE3298]

I can't think of anything to say but WHOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[heatingman]

Is conduit code requirement or personal preference?

Personal preference. It is code in most of the Chicago Area, where I live and work, but the county were this home is, NM cable is allowed.

But I prefer conduit on any installation I do, whether its required or not. I even run the low voltage in conduit most of the time.

Its just easier down the road if a circuit needs to be added, or wire up sized for a bigger load. I also think it looks more professional.

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[heatingman]

Also, I dont have a Pittsburg machine, so those are all hand done on the brake.

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[heatingman]

Is conduit code requirement or personal preference?

This is the side without the ductwork, but I did pretty much the mirror image on the side with the ductwork.

I think I ran about 200 ft of conduit in there.

Could not decide if I wanted low outlets or high ones, so I did both.


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[VTP99]

I just can't put my finger on how the hell the a/c is going to work 🤔

[heatingman]

Just finished the trim plates for the flue and the supply into the storage area.




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[VTP99]

Seriously though I know you'll get that resolved 😉
Looks good shows your skills of this craft well.
I think I remember your thread on making those square to round transitions but started getting a headache on the math.
Go figure I now need some for a current project I'm doing. 22" and can't find any locally readily available.
What's your turnaround time ? 😃

[heatingman]

Seriously though I know you'll get that resolved
Looks good shows your skills of this craft well.
I think I remember your thread on making those square to round transitions but started getting a headache on the math.
Go figure I now need some for a current project I'm doing. 22" and can't find any locally readily available.
What's your turnaround time ?

I think I spent a little more then an hour making the square to round. Once I figured it out that is. Surely you could have one made at a fab shop. We have tinners at work, some may know how to make fittings, but they just call it all in to a fab shop.


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[Unlimited1]

you have some nice detail work behind it, good to see!.. it does not look far too out of design specs for something on the fly....

a couple of questions though
1) is heat going to work properly,i have seen that piping style for a 90% furnace..thats an 80% that i am aware of. so the exhaust opening has to be above the heat exchanger....that exhaust is on the bottom...
2) the AH could have been easily laid down on its side with the coil on the left before the wall opening..with the exhaust going straight up..any reason you decided not to do it?

3)if the fan is working currently..what is your static pressure .it would have been nice to see an inside insulated SA casket instead of the 90 with reduction after the turning vanes then going larger...are you going to wrap it all in FSK r-8 insulation, or going to take it apart and sleeve r-8 round flex insulation over it?

4) I was always taught to keep the refrigeration coil on the return side,its easier to service and clean it, plus the heat can warp/distort the fins... is there a reason your coil is on the supply side especially with a gas furnace?

5) if i remember correctly that AH can be converted to flip the blower to also help you with its design...if you do decide to change it

[joemach]

That is some awesome work!

Don't see much metal ducting around here anymore.

[heatingman]

you have some nice detail work behind it, good to see!.. it does not look far too out of design specs for something on the fly....

a couple of questions though
1) is heat going to work properly,i have seen that piping style for a 90% furnace..thats an 80% that i am aware of. so the exhaust opening has to be above the heat exchanger....that exhaust is on the bottom...
2) the AH could have been easily laid down on its side with the coil on the left before the wall opening..with the exhaust going straight up..any reason you decided not to do it?

3)if the fan is working currently..what is your static pressure .it would have been nice to see an inside insulated SA casket instead of the 90 with reduction after the turning vanes then going larger...are you going to wrap it all in FSK r-8 insulation, or going to take it apart and sleeve r-8 round flex insulation over it?

4) I was always taught to keep the refrigeration coil on the return side,its easier to service and clean it, plus the heat can warp/distort the fins... is there a reason your coil is on the supply side especially with a gas furnace?

5) if i remember correctly that AH can be converted to flip the blower to also help you with its design...if you do decide to change it

1 ) Furnace is multi-poise - any flow direction you want - upflow, downflow, left or right. Then you just rotate the flue elbow inside the furnace. Carrier 48CTA

I assume thats what your talking about.

Or that the flue goes horizontally before upward?

2) furnace is upright for 2 reasons - The freebie evap coil is not made for horizontal, and 2 - horizontal layout would have wasted more floor space. The furnace is located in what will be a finished space (office/bonus space) I had thought about putting the furnace horizontal in the kneewall space, but the overall length of furnace, coil, supply and return plenum would have taken up over 1/2 the width of the garage, causing at least 1/2 the supply air having to double back the other direction, which would have wasted even more space and materials.

3) Have not tested the static pressure. there is not a reduction after the supply elbow, but rather built into it. The design is essentially a standard return drop elbow - with turning vanes to help ease the air through fitting.

If I had more height to work with, I would done it differently.

4) evaporator coils always go on the outlet side of a gas heating furnace. Pretty sure thats in every manual. While RTU’s are often counter to that, they also have chronic HX failures because of it. If the evap coil was on the return side of the heater, you’ll be condensing water on the fireside of the HX.

5) cant flip the blower, but the entire furnace can be rotated.


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[COOLJIM]

He is from Chicago , code there , I do some work at my daughters house there , everything in steel conduit .

[slctech]

That is a beautiful thing. There is just one thing I am wondering and that is the idea to conceal the din rail mounted relays in the return air? Why not installed in the furnace or in a hinged electrical control enclosure maybe a 12x12, etc. That is the geek in me, I like pretty control panels...Merry Xmas and great job!

[heatingman]

That is a beautiful thing. There is just one thing I am wondering and that is the idea to conceal the din rail mounted relays in the return air? Why not installed in the furnace or in a hinged electrical control enclosure maybe a 12x12, etc. That is the geek in me, I like pretty control panels...Merry Xmas and great job!

Figured it would be easier to remove and clean the blower if the relays where not mounted there. If I had an enclosure I probably would have used one. But the filter door hinges open, so its sort of like a built in enclosure.


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[BBeerme]

Nice work Mr. Heating Man !!

[Unlimited1]

1 ) Furnace is multi-poise - any flow direction you want - upflow, downflow, left or right. Then you just rotate the flue elbow inside the furnace. Carrier 48CTA

I assume thats what your talking about.

Or that the flue goes horizontally before upward?

2) furnace is upright for 2 reasons - The freebie evap coil is not made for horizontal, and 2 - horizontal layout would have wasted more floor space. The furnace is located in what will be a finished space (office/bonus space) I had thought about putting the furnace horizontal in the kneewall space, but the overall length of furnace, coil, supply and return plenum would have taken up over 1/2 the width of the garage, causing at least 1/2 the supply air having to double back the other direction, which would have wasted even more space and materials.

3) Have not tested the static pressure. there is not a reduction after the supply elbow, but rather built into it. The design is essentially a standard return drop elbow - with turning vanes to help ease the air through fitting.

If I had more height to work with, I would done it differently.

4) evaporator coils always go on the outlet side of a gas heating furnace. Pretty sure thats in every manual. While RTU’s are often counter to that, they also have chronic HX failures because of it. If the evap coil was on the return side of the heater, you’ll be condensing water on the fireside of the HX.

5) cant flip the blower, but the entire furnace can be rotated.


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thank you for answering..

its has been a very long time since i ever installed an 80%, a very long time....all newer ones for the last 12 years with 90% have the coil inside opposite of the furnace being an all in one unit... the ones that was not , design spec was 12" before the return, because all was horizontal install (with anti vibration hanging from the diagonal 2x10's) ...everything else is heat pumps by popular choice

i have seen a few 90% with the evap coil directly above it with no way to properly clean the inside of the coil as maintenance...

the package units HE have a bad design as the primary tubes dont pitch back to drain the condensate that causes it to rot internally, but i will see light seam rot first....I am in a much warmer climate so most heat exchanges last 7-10 years....

the smooth tube bend heat exchanger last much longer than the ripple bend ones where i find the most amount of pinholes because the metal is stretched thin at those points