-
Furnace sizing question
I’m doing a side jobby for family that requires replacing a 47000 BTU OUTPUT furnace.
Below are outputs...
My supplier can give me. 41000 hi /29000 lo
Or a 56 hi / 40 lo
The house is about 2500 ft sq, half that is basement. It’s got 2 warm walls because it’s a condo.
Ductwork should handle either unit.
Word is that the old unit short cycled a bit.
Anyone got input on these outputs?
-
What’s the TESP on the existing system?
-
Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-
Depends on the load. In my experience I cant buy gas furnaces small enough to match the load. Maybe look into doing a blowerdoor test and load calc then going with an appropriate sized heatpump instead?
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
-
Post Likes - 2 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-
If the old one short cycled and it is 47k out and the smallest new one it 41k out on high fire then put in the 41k. Otherwise you just as well put in a single stage 40k out as the 56/40 will never run on high fire anyway. Just make sure you pull wires etc so the thermostat can control the staging.
-
Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-

Originally Posted by
TannerD
Depends on the load. In my experience I cant buy gas furnaces small enough to match the load. Maybe look into doing a blowerdoor test and load calc then going with an appropriate sized heatpump instead?
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
you are in Alabama, he is in Canada....
I r the king of the world!...or at least I get to stand on the roof and look down on the rest of yall

-
Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-
is the existing 80% b vent or 90% plus with the pvc..
you did not say if your numbers are output Or input...
a load calculation needs to be done...and the neighbors might keep their temps higher so you have a radiant gain..got a thermal camera to check?
you also might have a geothermal gain with a basement but it is not mentioned how much of it is in the ground..seen some that are only 1/4, others 1/2 a few 3/4 in the earth..
the short cycle issue should also be looked into..it should not be hard to look into it...it will give you a good insight if the existing is oversized
-

Originally Posted by
Refrig1234
I’m doing a side jobby for family that requires replacing a 47000 BTU OUTPUT furnace.
Below are outputs...
My supplier can give me. 41000 hi /29000 lo
Or a 56 hi / 40 lo
The house is about 2500 ft sq, half that is basement. It’s got 2 warm walls because it’s a condo.
Ductwork should handle either unit.
Word is that the old unit short cycled a bit.
Anyone got input on these outputs?
Ive got a 10 X 10 walk in box what size condensing unit do I need?
-
Short cycling? By t'stat or limit sw?
-
Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-

Originally Posted by
pecmsg
Ive got a 10 X 10 walk in box what size condensing unit do I need?
You gave too much info.
I could easily make some educated guesses from that.
You should have said:
I have a walk in cooler. What size condenser should I use? Larkin has like 29 sizes available.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-
I donÂ’t have an esp reading.
Or an existing temp rise.
Or a heat load.
There was no word of any past hi limit lockouts so the system is likely cycling on the stat. And thereÂ’s no word of it ever not being able to keep up to the load.
I could only do a very rough existing esp estimation that might make everyone here sick. But I donÂ’t believe air flow to be an issue.
I know my questions full of holes.
I guess IÂ’m looking for an opinion on whether having a furnace 6000 btus less than the original really has the potential to give me comfort problems.
Or if I should put in the larger one which is going to be oversized for the space on the high end... if it ever even gets there.
ThereÂ’s no way everyone here is going out and getting a heat load done every time you end up in the middle of two pieces of equiptment...
-

Originally Posted by
heatingman
You gave too much info.
I could easily make some educated guesses from that.
You should have said:
I have a walk in cooler. What size condenser should I use? Larkin has like 29 sizes available.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Exactly and you gave the same information!
-
-

Originally Posted by
Refrig1234
I’m doing a side jobby for family...
What's a jobby?
° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °
"You never know what others don't know." -
If I can't laugh at myself...then I'll laugh at YOU! -

-
I'd go with the smaller one.
-
Post Likes - 3 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-
If the current unit has worked for years but short cycles on the stat I'd go smaller.
In my entire life I've upsized a system exactly TWICE. Both times were for a tag mahal type Renovation that more than doubled the square footage of the conditioned space.
When replacing equipment I usually do a fairly quick basic manual j
And that usually leaves me still installing larger equipment than is necessary. But almost every single output unit is 20% less than the one I removed.
You don't squat with your spurs on.
And you NEVER put the torches away before pressure testing.
-
Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-

Originally Posted by
Restaurant mech
If the current unit has worked for years but short cycles on the stat I'd go smaller.
In my entire life I've upsized a system exactly TWICE. Both times were for a tag mahal type Renovation that more than doubled the square footage of the conditioned space.
When replacing equipment I usually do a fairly quick basic manual j
And that usually leaves me still installing larger equipment than is necessary. But almost every single output unit is 20% less than the one I removed.
I am not understanding this line. To me what it is saying is that you replaced a 2T with a 2.5 ton. Depending on brand/model/combination the actual output will vary but how do you end up with a 30,000 unit putting out less than 20,000 (24k x .2 = 4800 off the 24000 or 19,200). Or you take out a 60k 95% furnace and replace it with a 80k 95% and end up with an output of under 46k.
I don't understand. What am I missing?
-

Originally Posted by
BNME8EZ
I am not understanding this line. To me what it is saying is that you replaced a 2T with a 2.5 ton. Depending on brand/model/combination the actual output will vary but how do you end up with a 30,000 unit putting out less than 20,000 (24k x .2 = 4800 off the 24000 or 19,200). Or you take out a 60k 95% furnace and replace it with a 80k 95% and end up with an output of under 46k.
I don't understand. What am I missing?
I think what he is saying is that the rough manual J is not as accurate as a full blown room by room, or maybe some assumptions are made for unknowns that end up adding a little CYA to the sizing.
But still winds up selecting a smaller unit then what was already there.
For example.
He does not no the exact R value of the walls so maybe he uses R-11 where their might actually be R-13
So that adds some extra btu.
So maybe a totally accurate man J would come up with 40,000 BTU and his rough calc says 50,000 btu
And he's removing a 70,000 btu furnace.
He's still downizing, just maybe not as much as he would if he had a totally in depth Man J with room by room calcs etc..
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
-

Originally Posted by
heatingman
I think what he is saying is that the rough manual J is not as accurate as a full blown room by room, or maybe some assumptions are made for unknowns that end up adding a little CYA to the sizing.
But still winds up selecting a smaller unit then what was already there.
For example.
He does not no the exact R value of the walls so maybe he uses R-11 where their might actually be R-13
So that adds some extra btu.
So maybe a totally accurate man J would come up with 40,000 BTU and his rough calc says 50,000 btu
And he's removing a 70,000 btu furnace.
He's still downizing, just maybe not as much as he would if he had a totally in depth Man J with room by room calcs etc..
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Thanks I think I got it.
He is installing smaller equipment than was there but not a small as Man J would suggest.
-

Originally Posted by
Refrig1234
ThereÂ’s no way everyone here is going out and getting a heat load done every time you end up in the middle of two pieces of equiptment...
If you don't do a load calculation, who is responsible if the size proves to be incorrect after the installation?
*********
https://www.hvac20.com/ High efficiency equipment alone does not provide home comfort and efficiency. HVAC2.0 is a process for finding the real needs of the house and the occupants. Offer the customer a menu of work to address their problems and give them a probability of success.
Find contractors with specialized training in combustion analysis, residential system performance, air flow, and duct optimization https://www.myhomecomfort.org/
Site member map HERE!
-
Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-

Originally Posted by
heatingman
I think what he is saying is that the rough manual J is not as accurate as a full blown room by room, or maybe some assumptions are made for unknowns that end up adding a little CYA to the sizing.
But still winds up selecting a smaller unit then what was already there.
For example.
He does not no the exact R value of the walls so maybe he uses R-11 where their might actually be R-13
So that adds some extra btu.
So maybe a totally accurate man J would come up with 40,000 BTU and his rough calc says 50,000 btu
And he's removing a 70,000 btu furnace.
He's still downizing, just maybe not as much as he would if he had a totally in depth Man J with room by room calcs etc..
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
That's exactly correct. For a quick manual J I'm still going room by room and measuring windows etc.
But unless I'm going to spend an entire day in a house I have to make some assumptions......
So on average I think the quick manual J gives me a load around 10% higher than ACTUAL load.
Then on top of that when looking at heating options if the manual J calls for 47500 btu output......
I'm not installing a 45000 btu output furnace.
I'd go one size larger which for argument sake would be 52000btu.
You don't squat with your spurs on.
And you NEVER put the torches away before pressure testing.