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Thread: Bryant evolution system.

  1. #1
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    Bryant evolution system.

    987M 80K 3 ton evolution modulating natural gas
    180 or 187B evolution two stage ac (cant remember as I type this which one)
    Lennox pure air
    Aerus uv/ air scrubber
    Bryant evolution zoning system with three zones and connex system
    Currently the system has the typical single central 16 inch round return air. I'm adding a 10inch round return to the smallest zone and a 14inch round to the master bedroom zone on a super tall sidewall.
    The system was a complete cut in basically as the furnace before was located 60feet away in the wrong direction making the ducting inefficient. So everything from the dedicated circuit /gas / platform for the furnace and hillside wall for the outdoor unit was added for it.
    I dont like the masking tape either I got the leakage down to almost nothing and was trying to get that last tiny bit of leakage. It's not a direct vent because I didnt really see a need as the utility area is very well ventilated and I didnt really want another pipe sticking out of my house. Let me know what you guys think. As a 15 year Installer in the industry I've never been able to do my own home so I got to focus on what I thought was most important and even with the single central return it's a really nice comfort system. This system covers the bedroom side of my home. I'm currently installing (as time permits) a very similar lennox modulating zone system on the living area of the home. Thanks guys

    P.S if I did it over again I'd skip the 16x25 to 20x25 return air adapter and i would make one of those bottom return bases to jack up the furnace to mate the 20x25 directly to the side of the unit.
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  2. #2
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    Is that flue going downhill?

    What's going on with the electrical?

    Is that gas line galvanized?

    What's the point of a drain pan that shallow without a drain or float switch?
    Those who restrain desire do so because theirs is weak enough to be restrained. (William Blake)

  3. #3
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    whats with the yellow tape?

    can you point me to the page in the install manual where it states to run the exhaust downhill. I always read and was told it must go uphill but I also dont do carrier brands.

  4. #4
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    Nov 2004
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    Man !! that is some serious slope, good job. I would plug the furnace in to the receptacle and not the power strip.
    "He who knows the least, knows it the loudest"
    I'm not young enough, to know everything...

  5. #5
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    Flue goes downhill to the furnace not away. Guaranteed that’s not in the install guide

  6. #6
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    Yes a few things. I plugged the exhaust into a (semi convenient) previous pvc penetration that was abandoned. Mainly cause it was easy to hide there and my family was tired of freezing their butts off ( a touch dramatic its incredibly mild here ) it was the last thing I did and is the one thing I'm not thrilled about. The pan has a moisture alarm in it that is part of a home system. I might do a direct vent if I can find a concentric vent I can paint cleanly enough and hide in which case the exhaust will have plenty of uphill slope. My initial post had a few notes explaining a few aspects that have changed since the photos. Namely the masking tape was me trying to track down every last tiny bit of air leakage. It helped a tad so I left it for now.As for the wiring I just ran a dedicated circuit some of the wiring you see was existing house wiring it's kind of a cluster right there. I threw the surge protector on there mainly as a test I've heard mixed opinions about them on furnaces. I'm putting a whole house model on soon so it will be gone anyways that being said no issues with the surge protector. I'm going to add an ultra aire dehumidifier and a fresh air system for the house as well.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by actech2 View Post
    Flue goes downhill to the furnace not away. Guaranteed that’s not in the install guide

    True, but come to think of it, the only reason its sloped is so that condensate will flow back to the inducer housing and out the drain. I guess it would work if it was sloped properly the other way, too. If you don't mind the acidic water going on your plants or wherever.


  8. #8
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    Yeah the water goes in the same gravel pit I installed for the condensates and it never freezes here. I've been really happy with the system so far. Other regrets are not just using the extreme series evolution air conditioner. That being said the weather is so moderate here that would have been a bit much.

  9. #9
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    the furance should be pugged in the outlet directly not in the dollar store surge strip that is not made for this type of load.
    and i agree with the others vent it properly you and your familys life is worth it.
    it looks pretty good to me

  10. #10
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    the gas pipe in my area any ways has to be black iron pipeing and hard piped to the unit it self.
    We are now allowed to use some CCSST but i wont use it unless my client insists on it.
    as i hate it i know how to run iron pipe and thats how it should be done

  11. #11
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    Wouldn't you want the flue pipe pitching up for proper movement of the gases? The flue gases are hot/warmer then combustion air. The flue gases want to naturally rise. This is forcing them downhill, no?

    And that gas piping would fail inspection in my area. You especially cannot use an appliance gas connector on a furnace.

  12. #12
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    Thread Starter
    Thanks guys. I got a neat sidewall concentric vent that can be painted and hidden well enough. It will be easy enough to install. As for the gas line I'm not necessarily saying anyone is right or wrong not do I have a strong opinion either way but every single furnace in my area and the outlying counties I've worked on was installed (in reference to the gas line) this way and no issue or mention of it ever over hundreds of inspections. Typically either black iron or galvi and with a 1/2 inch flexible appliance connector. Typically over 80k BTU the gas flex is stepped up in size. There is a 6 inch sediment leg on the back of the furnace its barely visible in the pics. Code around here allows for the appliance gas flex as long as it doesnt enter the furnace cabinet. I went and looked at 5 of the most recent HOP posts (not including mine) and they all have a short gas flex. I appreciate the constructive input that's why I'm here thanks folks !

    PS I dont like CSST either I run hard pipe to within a foot or so of the furnace I have used CSST for a run over 18" maybe 6 times in 17 years or so. I think maybe the reason the appliance flex is so popular here is maybe its seen as being more suitable for earthquakes ?

  13. #13
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    you might be right but in my area its hard pipe right to the gas valve with the union out side the case

  14. #14
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    We can all criticize tape, but much easier to take off if needed. If he is happy with the duct leakage and system static, who cares??

    Looks like crap, but pookie can be a ***** later.

  15. #15
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    Thanks. It's just masking tape and I can remove it without leaving residue etc and it brought my leakage down to the lowest I've seen I cant remember the number now. That being said it does look like crap. As for the static the I expect that to be lower when I get the other two returns in I got a 12inch round and 10 inch round going in so we can close doors without issues

  16. #16
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    The end result is what’s important. If you’re satisfied with the measurements, then you did well. You already know what is outside the norm.
    Kudos for running separate condensate drains for the furnace and the coil. That will prevent potential furnace faults from pressure on the condensate line.
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