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Thread: Back-flush Toilet and Pex-Al-Pex for shop

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    NW Arkansas
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    Back-flush Toilet and Pex-Al-Pex for shop

    We are getting ready to start running water and sewer to one of our shops. Water will come from a yard hydrant about 150' away (which is about 50' from well and another 50' to house and pressure tank). Sewer will run down to septic tank. Anyway, we are thinking about using Pex-Al-Pex as direct burial except for under the drive way we will use some pvc sleeve. A few questions we are having a bit trouble getting a straight answer for:

    1) Do you have to bed Pex-Al-Pex with sand or anything else if not in a sleeve?
    2) Do we need a pressure tank at the shop for well or is the one in the house fine for the whole system?
    3) Back-flush or Rear-Flush toilets, what is the best way to mount the closet flange? I have always either had them in a concrete slab or a sub-floor. We are wanting to avoid cutting and jack-hammering out a space for the drain so are going with one that goes out the back. Any advise for installing one? We are going with the AS Yorkville power assist toilet.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    I would sleeve the supply pipe to prevent rocks from cutting holes in the pipe. The house pressure tank should work fine. I have no comment on the toilet.
    No man can be both ignorant and free.
    Thomas Jefferson

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    I'd be leary on that al pex, haven't seen it anywhere up here since the whole kitec lawsuits can't even buy fittings easily to repair systems that do exist

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Sep 2014
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    Thread Starter
    Thank you for your input. I am about 2 months out before I start but am trying to purchase a few things every week. Right now I’m leaning towards regular 3/4 pex sleeved with gray pvc.

    Ordered the toilet. I’ll see how that works out.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    I would recommend using 3/4 uponor wirsbo, not the pex, the pex will work fine but the wirsbo is a better product, you can actually buy it pre sleeved

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

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  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by surefire96 View Post
    I would recommend using 3/4 uponor wirsbo, not the pex, the pex will work fine but the wirsbo is a better product, you can actually buy it pre sleeved

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk
    X2. The Wirsbo is a lot nicer product.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Coastal South Carolina
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    I installed an American Standard thru the wall flush toilet with the power assist flush. Works great. I would just be real careful to get your holes lined up correctly when mounting it to wall and if you are a man, don't flush it while setting down, that thing has got some more flushing power, you might lose some important anatomical parts otherwise.

  9. #8
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    Sep 2014
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    Thread Starter
    I ended up purchasing a manual pex crimp and expansion tool so I’ll probably run pex-a. The size difference of the fittings is incredible.

    Since I had to dig up around my well to replace a hydrant I also order a cycle stop valve for my well. Will be interesting to see if it makes much of a difference in how many times the pump cycles. Anyone have any experience with this thing?

    https://cyclestopvalves.com/

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Why don’t you run polyethylene well Pipe between the buildings? It’s a lot more rugged than PEX, and cheaper. You can get it in a continuous length, so there’s no couplings in the ground. A truck load of sand will protect the Pipe for several of your lifetimes. I’d put a small bladder style tank in your remote building with a check valve before the tank. That will cut down on surging, when valves open and close. If you do loose water pressure, you’ll at least have a couple toilet flushes.
    Retired, after 43 Years

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