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Originally Posted by
Sapote
Do you guys isolated the micron gauge before releasing the refrigerant to avoid contaminating?
No. I try to keep the number of connections and valves as low as possible. I do try to keep the stem of the guage pointed up to keep oil from running into it.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
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Originally Posted by
Sapote
Do you guys isolated the micron gauge before releasing the refrigerant to avoid contaminating?
No
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For those who don't isolate the micro gauge, how do you know if its displayed valve is correct? last time it was calibrated?
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Originally Posted by
Sapote
For those who don't isolate the micro gauge, how do you know if its displayed valve is correct? last time it was calibrated?
You can calibrate the bluevac in the field. Also it has to be cleaned regularly.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
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Originally Posted by
R600a
You can calibrate the bluevac in the field. Also it has to be cleaned regularly.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
How do one know the ambient pressure in the field any where?
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Originally Posted by
R600a
You can calibrate the bluevac in the field. Also it has to be cleaned regularly.
IF you trust the CRT's ball valve, then why not isolating the micron gauge with one and forget about recalibrating and cleaning?
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Originally Posted by
Sapote
How do one know the ambient pressure in the field any where?
Calibrating a micron gauge has nothing to do with pressure they are not a pressure sensing device.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
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Originally Posted by
Sapote
For those who don't isolate the micro gauge, how do you know if its displayed valve is correct? last time it was calibrated?
When the bluvac is out of calibration there is a indicator plus another indicator for oil fouling.
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Originally Posted by
itsiceman
When the bluvac is out of calibration there is a indicator plus another indicator for oil fouling.
And of course go bluevac or go home.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
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Originally Posted by
R600a
Calibrating a micron gauge has nothing to do with pressure they are not a pressure sensing device.
Very funny you, because I designed such a thing. Micron gauge using the principle of thermal conduction in the gas medium to determine the density of the gas, or the pressure of it given its temperature is known. There is a heater element and a thermocouples inside, and the computer chip doing all the calculation running a programming codes. Ask how do I know.
Of course we calibrated the gauges in the factory using a know pressure for a particular gas.
It's similar to the Mass Air sensor for metering the air intake in your modern fuel injected engines.
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I use a Bluvac, so isolating it is not mandatory, it can handle 500psi according to the specs. Having said that, I usually release the charge, or add charge, whichever the case may be, til the pressure is above atmosphere, say 15-50psi, stop, remove vacuum gauge, install cores, and finish charging.
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Originally Posted by
channellxbob
I use a Bluvac, so isolating it is not mandatory, it can handle 500psi according to the specs. Having said that, I usually release the charge, or add charge, whichever the case may be, til the pressure is above atmosphere, say 15-50psi, stop, remove vacuum gauge, install cores, and finish charging.
500 psi is a old spec. New spec is 1000 psi.
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Originally Posted by
Sapote
Very funny you, because I designed such a thing. Micron gauge using the principle of thermal conduction in the gas medium to determine the density of the gas, or the pressure of it given its temperature is known. There is a heater element and a thermocouples inside, and the computer chip doing all the calculation running a programming codes. Ask how do I know.
Of course we calibrated the gauges in the factory using a know pressure for a particular gas.
It's similar to the Mass Air sensor for metering the air intake in your modern fuel injected engines.
Now I'm curious. Since you're an engineer could you please look up bluvac calibration instructions? I would be really interested to hear your opinion on their method.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
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Originally Posted by
Sapote
Do you guys isolated the micron gauge before releasing the refrigerant to avoid contaminating?
Of course, not due to contamination, but because positive pressure isn't good for micron gauges
Sent from my SM-A516U using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by
Matt Woodbridge
Of course, not due to contamination, but because positive pressure isn't good for micron gauges
Sent from my SM-A516U using Tapatalk
Especially if you use a Just Better at leaking micron gauge.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
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Post Likes - 2 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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Originally Posted by
Matt Woodbridge
Of course, not due to contamination, but because positive pressure isn't good for micron gauges
Sent from my SM-A516U using Tapatalk
1000 psi...
Not really worried about overpressure.
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Originally Posted by
R600a
Especially if you use a Just Better at leaking micron gauge.
Sent from the Okie state usin Tapatalk
Lol, after my response, I read all your guys comments, on there actually good for i think someone mentioned 1000 psi. I wouldn't try it with my gauge, but just in case, I dont have to worry so much
Sent from my SM-A516U using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by
itsiceman
1000 psi...
Not really worried about overpressure.
Yeah I just seen that, I've just never tried any positive pressure, ive always taken off my gauge.
Sent from my SM-A516U using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by
channellxbob
I use a Bluvac, so isolating it is not mandatory, it can handle 500psi according to the specs. Having said that, I usually release the charge, or add charge, whichever the case may be, til the pressure is above atmosphere, say 15-50psi, stop, remove vacuum gauge, install cores, and finish charging.
That's not too difficult, isn't it? This is the whole point I try to say in the other post about releasing refrigerant just enough higher than ambient pressure before installing the core valve, but people here think I'm nut.
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Originally Posted by
Matt Woodbridge
Of course, not due to contamination, but because positive pressure isn't good for micron gauges
Just had a quick look at the micro BluVac user guide. It says:
"
If oil or other contamination is inadvertently drawn into the sensor, the display will show:
To clean the sensor:
1. Turn the μBluVac+ power on.
2. Shake out any excess oil.
3. Using an eye dropper or syringe, fill the sensor port hole with isopropyl alcohol. Do not insert any object into the port.
4. Shake out the alcohol.
5. Repeat steps (3) and (4) three times.
6. Thoroughly dry the sensor by pulling a vacuum for about 1 minute, or allow at least 1 hour to air dry.
7. If OIL still shows on the display, perform a freezer calibration.
"
Wow, with all the steps involved in cleaning, why not add an isolation valve?
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