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I've been through a few UEi meters basically since I started in the trade. It's the accidental water that takes mine out like when I'm defrosting coils in a freezer. It doesn't take them to RIP but they never seem to act right after that. In that regard my fluke has kept me away from the new meter every year or two but I do miss all the features and convince of the UEi clamp meters. Even that said I did bust my 87V screen and they are no longer an available replacement part so I bought another 87V a while back.
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I used a coworkers 902FC
Wasn't impressed.
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Picked up a DL429B
Quick impression
Yes it feels plasticy but weighty. The clamp head has a little giggle and comes off easier than I remember older versions doing.
Very quick measurements auto range off continuity checker very fast. High resistance measurements are slow.
The app needs location permission on or it won't connect.
Bluetooth range barely get out of my residential freezer and the cold junction has a slow reaction.
So far no real surprises.
Only weird thing is the clunk noise it makes switching modes. Curious if it's all electronic of if there is anything mechanical in there.
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https://youtu.be/GcKHspTebWQ
Don't expect to trust the temperature readings
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Originally Posted by
Chuck
I remember that. This is the B version. We shall see. Who knows what's different between the two.
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This was after pulling it out of the freezer. Room temp is more like lower 70s
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I have only found a couple of meters that had what I would call accurate temp readings. Any of the FP meters that have temp calibration are accurate and of all meters the Klein CL450, which is also one with calibration. My all time fav meter the Amprobe ACD 51 NAV cannot be calibrated for temp, but is withing a few degrees. I just don't depend on a meter, usually, for temps, only ballpark stuff. Once you use a FP or Amprobe, or even the Klein 450 (don't know a thing about other Kleins), you get real frustrated fast with the slower UEI meters. In the real world it's not a big deal, but it's like driving a hot rod and then getting into your Pinto to go home, it's just aggreivating. At one time all I had was a DL389 and it worked fine and got the job done, but I'm not anxious to go back to UEI any time soon.
A new fellow asked me for some info the other day and I gave him my opinions, but I also told him that there is so much personal preference involved that it's just best to get one of the name brands, give it a go and see how you like it. You'll develop your own preferences.
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I had a SC640 and wasn't impressed. Sold it after a short time and went back to my Fluke. Wouldn't say the reading were all that fast either. I didn't check the cold junction in this way but the Fieldpiece would probably behave similarly. It's just the way you should expect a thermocouple thermometer to work.
As far as this UEi being slow that is not the case for regular measurements. It actually seems faster than my 87V but it might be that the display updates faster. I'll check into that.
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SC56 was the last really good field piece meter. I am completely back to fluke now
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The DL429B UEi is quicker at displaying voltage measurements in the appropriate manual range vs my Fluke 87V but slower in the auto range. Fluke was two seconds vs three for the UEi in auto. Just counting on my fingers. Nothing scientific lol.
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Hooked up to a suction and liquid line with the unit running and did not get that voltage error with T1 and T2 together.
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Originally Posted by
itsiceman
Hooked up to a suction and liquid line with the unit running and did not get that voltage error with T1 and T2 together.
Were you expecting an error?
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Originally Posted by
heatingman
Were you expecting an error?
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Chuck posted a video showing two examples. Was hoping the B version took care of it.
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The continuity mode took a crap on me today. Lead to a misdiagnosis due to it being intermittent. Double checked since the electrical fix didn't work and the intermittent issue with the meter went full busted.
Was showing 0 ohms with beeper going off and no leads attached. There was no affect that I could tell on the regular resistance mode while this was happening which seems odd.
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Screen and voltage light froze up still reading voltage. Not on hold mode.
I'm having trust issues lol
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Seems odd that resistance works but not continuity.
Any accidents possibly lead to this or did it die of natural causes?
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Nothing to cause it.
It feels like a brain problem not a hardware issue. Wondering if SLC was seeing this and not a accidental hold button hit.
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The last time I caught the issue it froze up with ac voltage still reading. I even unplugged the leads and the voltage indicator red light never went out until I turned it off and back on again.
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You change the battery recently? Seems every time I got unexplained trouble with a meter, a new high quality battery fixes it.
Now a battery doesn't fix the explained troubles like falling out of the tool bag from the roof access hatch
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New installed. The ones I took out read 1.4 I think. I put them in other tools.
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