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  1. #79
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Atlanta GA area
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris1584 View Post
    So you know the humidity. I find the worst for climate control, is when the temperature drops enough that the AC doesn't run, but the humidity is so high. So you turn the AC temp down and freeze, if you don't you are clammy to dripping wet. I was thinking the variable speed, of the blower and/or condenser would help with that, Not sure I completely have the grasp of it all.
    Catching up on this thread...

    We install a bunch of the high end variable speed heat AND AC systems...
    Thinks like 97-98% efficiency gas heat and 20 SEER AC... both variable capacity
    Note: please do not confuse variable speed furnace with variable capacity furnace... they are different animals...
    They seem to work nicely, great climate...
    UNTIL...
    One gets into that condition the OP mentioned a few posts ago...
    Quick temp drop with high humidity (just after an afternoon thunderstorm... grin)...
    Where the temp dropped considerably, it is cloudy outside, yet the humidity is between 95-99% (assume 100% is close to actually raining)...
    Then the variable capacity will not handle the humidity.

    Since you say this will be a daily use, rather than a guest house...
    I would suggest to go ahead and add the installed whole house de-humidifier...
    Teddy Bear is the expert at H-talk on those... and the brand he promotes is the same brand we use (and is American made).
    Truth be known, they make some of the units for the other name brands.

    Comment on the 16x24 poolside room: With lots of windows, and having it open sometimes and closed sometimes... this is gonna add even more difficultly to an already difficult situation to condition (conditioning means heating and cooling to comfort levels). I would suggest a separate system for this area... and another installed whole house de-hum unit.

    IMO... having been a remodeling contractor (including in Houston before I left in the later 1980's), then in Atlanta until the turn of the century...
    I would STOP the project until lots of questions were answered!
    If you rush to finish... you have a good chance of ending up with less than desirable results... which will be costly to very costly to remedy!!!

    One more thing: A HP is nothing more than an AC unit that can be reversed to heat...
    They work fine until the outdoor temps get down into the 30's... then the heated air feels temped (not hot, just warm). The KW strip back up heat remedies this.
    If you get cold easily and/or have problems with chills... then scrap the HP idea...

    You might look into 2 stage equipment... most of it runs at around 70% in low and full capacity in high.
    Some on this forum that are stuck on the engineering numbers disagree... however we tend to size so the actual load is somewhere between the low and high... seems to work nicely!
    Regardless... my opinion is you really need to get the installed de-hum on both systems...

    One more thing... systems that have high de-hum requirements... MUST HAVE regular service!
    Do not go with the idea: fix it when it breaks, or we can change filters and save $$$...
    You really need 2x annual service to keep this equipment running properly and doing the job you want it to. Going cheap on service... will lower the comfort level...
    Sadly... folks who go cheap on service... end up thinking it is the equipments or contractors fault... NO, it is the fault of lack of regular service...

    Please keep us informed as to how this thing turns out...

    Oh, and pics of what is there and what you want to accomplish would be interesting...
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!

    GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
    *Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
    *The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
    *Cheap is not good, good is not cheap; however expensive is not a guarantee of quality!
    Choose your contractor wisely!

  2. Likes pecmsg liked this post.
  3. #80
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Atlanta GA area
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    Oh, one more thing...

    Choose your contractor wisely...

    As noted in the Angie's list article (and no, I do not recommend using Angie's list either)...

    The contractor is more important than the brand of equipment, as planning and installation are more important than the equipment.
    Airflow (how much to where) is what provides comfort (a comfortable environment)...
    The equipment only heats and cools/de-hums the air.
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!

    GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
    *Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
    *The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
    *Cheap is not good, good is not cheap; however expensive is not a guarantee of quality!
    Choose your contractor wisely!

  4. Likes pecmsg liked this post.
  5. #81
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Click on

    Go Advanced

    scroll down to
    Manage Attachments

    Name:  IMG_1891-preview 2.JPG
Views: 68
Size:  1.40 MB

  6. #82
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    May 2013
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    Thread Starter
    I didn't mean for the picture to be so big. Not sure I did it correctly, took about 6 tries, never attached a picture to this site before.

  7. #83
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris1584 View Post
    I didn't mean for the picture to be so big. Not sure I did it correctly, took about 6 tries, never attached a picture to this site before.
    That's fine

  8. #84
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris1584 View Post
    Name:  IMG_1891-preview 2.JPG
Views: 68
Size:  1.40 MB
    Here we go

    Fun With Flex!

    Can you get a picture of the tag in the furnace?
    The return ducts in the back of the pic how crushed are they?

  9. #85
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
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    Why is the roof not Foam insulated"?

    Why zero insulation?

  10. #86
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris1584 View Post
    Name:  IMG_1891-preview 2.JPG
Views: 68
Size:  1.40 MB
    Pic is fine... the forum software does funny things with pics... sometimes they are in landscape mode... sideways...

    The part towards the back with the silver pipe going up is the gas furnace...
    Just closer is the AC coil, with a safety drain pan under it and some white PVC pipe...
    The part in the fore front is the supply plenum (distribution box)...

    I agree... why is the silver flex ducting (going around the boards nailed to the roof(??)... crushed???
    THAT... is poor installation... which results in restricted airflow (think of pinching a soda straw, do you get as much milkshake through it when it is pinched... grin)

    You need to get a handle on the HVAC part of this job... or the poor comfort results are gonna be a mess down the road.
    Be SURE it is resolved BEFORE the sheetrock goes up... a lot easier to do now than later!
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!

    GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
    *Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
    *The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
    *Cheap is not good, good is not cheap; however expensive is not a guarantee of quality!
    Choose your contractor wisely!

  11. #87
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    82
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by ga-hvac-tech View Post
    Catching up on this thread...

    We install a bunch of the high end variable speed heat AND AC systems...
    Thinks like 97-98% efficiency gas heat and 20 SEER AC... both variable capacity
    Note: please do not confuse variable speed furnace with variable capacity furnace... they are different animals...
    They seem to work nicely, great climate...
    UNTIL...
    One gets into that condition the OP mentioned a few posts ago...
    Quick temp drop with high humidity (just after an afternoon thunderstorm... grin)...
    Where the temp dropped considerably, it is cloudy outside, yet the humidity is between 95-99% (assume 100% is close to actually raining)...
    Then the variable capacity will not handle the humidity.

    Since you say this will be a daily use, rather than a guest house...
    I would suggest to go ahead and add the installed whole house de-humidifier...
    Teddy Bear is the expert at H-talk on those... and the brand he promotes is the same brand we use (and is American made)e name brands.

    Comment on the 16x24 poolside room: With lots of windows, and having it open sometimes and closed sometimes... this is gonna add even more difficultly to an already difficult situation to condition (conditioning means heating and cooling to comfort levels). I would suggest a separate system for this area... and another installed whole house de-hum unit.

    IMO... having been a remodeling contractor (including in Houston before I left in the later 1980's), then in Atlanta until the turn of the century...
    I would STOP the project until lots of questions were answered!
    If you rush to finish... you have a good chance of ending up with less than desirable results... which will be costly to very costly to remedy!!!

    One more thing: A HP is nothing more than an AC unit that can be reversed to heat...
    They work fine until the outdoor temps get down into the 30's... then the heated air feels temped (not hot, just warm). The KW strip back up heat remedies this.
    If you get cold easily and/or have problems with chills... then scrap the HP idea...

    You might look into 2 stage equipment... most of it runs at around 70% in low and full capacity in high.
    Some on this forum that are stuck on the engineering numbers disagree... however we tend to size so the actual load is somewhere between the low and high... seems to work nicely!
    Regardless... my opinion is you really need to get the installed de-hum on both systems...

    One more thing... systems that have high de-hum requirements... MUST HAVE regular service!
    Do not go with the idea: fix it when it breaks, or we can change filters and save $$$...
    You really need 2x annual service to keep this equipment running properly and doing the job you want it to. Going cheap on service... will lower the comfort level...
    Sadly... folks who go cheap on service... end up thinking it is the equipments or contractors fault... NO, it is the fault of lack of regular service...

    Please keep us informed as to how this thing turns out...

    Oh, and pics of what is there and what you want to accomplish would be interesting...
    Teddy Bear advised back in 2013 and that is why I know I want dehumidification. Well I knew it before but he confirmed as a professional what I was thinking..The pool room WAS(emphasis not shouting) to be part of this system. Due to lack of oversite no one figured out how to get the duct work down there, even though I asked repeated to do so. Anyway, there is an addition planned, almost ready for engineering and permitting, that will connect the pool room/garage to the original bungalow. The project manager sees my problem and is figuring out how to use the HVAC for the rest of the house ducted to this poolroom.

    The builder has told me he is stopping the inside stuff until I decide what I want, basically he is frustrated with me, instead of getting the answers to my questions from his HVAC sub. Remember, twice, he has told me this is a gas furnace with AC compressor outside and not a Heat Pump. Unless I just don't understand him, though now with the model numbers I know it is a heat pump.

    I my list of requirements I did ask about 2 stage/variable speed to help deal with the extreme heat/humidity. Not sure which is better for this part of the build and the climate, which seems to get worse by the year.

    The first occupant of the apartment is an adult daughter, sometimes working from home, much more lately. I travel alot sometimes for a month or more, but no cruises, or did, and have 2 dogs/3 cats. Having someone on the property would be helpful. She is always COLD. So between low rent from mom, use of the pool, and helping with pets and around the house, I get the better part of the deal. Another daughter in town is professional chef and high end restaurant and keeps me well supplied with food and often comes and cooks for me. Everyone is looking forward to coming here.

    In my current home I have had 2X yearly service since we moved in in 2009. Maintaining is much less expensive than repair/replace. My car gets the same service on a regular schedule.

    I did just pose a picture, hope that helps.

    Again, you don't know how reassuring it is to be able to ask all these questions and to get answers/suggestion that I mostly understand. Thank you all for stepping up.

  12. #88
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Why is the roof not Foam insulated"?

    Why zero insulation?
    Looks like the sheetrock is not in yet... to the right of the pic is a vaulted ceiling.

    I agree... foam the underside of the roof... do NOT foam the walls, rather conventional batts.
    This approach gives relief to the brutal heat (not a hot attic), yet allows the house to breathe (some air penetration through the walls)... When a house is 'too tight', meaning there is not enough air circulation... there is not enough fresh air in the house. The result is a stale house and increased medical issues.
    The foam roof with batts in the walls, seems to be a good balance from what I have read.
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!

    GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
    *Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
    *The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
    *Cheap is not good, good is not cheap; however expensive is not a guarantee of quality!
    Choose your contractor wisely!

  13. #89
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    82
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    Thread Starter
    Name:  Furnace Label.JPG
Views: 74
Size:  2.87 MBName:  Furnace Label.JPG
Views: 74
Size:  2.87 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Here we go

    Fun With Flex!

    Can you get a picture of the tag in the furnace?
    The return ducts in the back of the pic how crushed are they?
    Name:  Furnace Label.JPG
Views: 74
Size:  2.87 MBName:  Furnace Label.JPG
Views: 74
Size:  2.87 MBName:  Furnace Label.JPG
Views: 74
Size:  2.87 MB

  14. #90
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    May 2013
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    Thread Starter
    oh so sorry, really new at this attaching pictures.

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  16. #91
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
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    No problems
    So that a 3-Ton coil
    What about the tag on the inside wall of the furnace?

    I know its tight up there, you can now appreciate what we go thru. Imagine it August and closed up, be about 140° + up there!

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