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  1. #170
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    79
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bill View Post
    It's probably not installed yet, but it would look like something this.

    Attachment 814938
    Bless your heart, a visual aid. I love it.

  2. #171
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    79
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    Thread Starter
    I am not sending/posting the Manual J, as I await a response from my builder, concerning the fact that the specs he gave are not correct and the Manual J results will change. I will post when I get the redo.

  3. #172
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
    Posts
    43,174
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    When I left Houston, foam was not yet a mainstream thing... (left in the later 1980's)...

    Here in Atlanta, we have more rain than Houston, however the humidity is not as bad...

    I have done work for a high end spec home builder (multi-million $ custom houses)...
    He did a bunch of research and decided that:
    2x6 walls with R-19 batts (conventional insulation)
    Foam the bottom of the roof
    Foam the ceiling over a garage IF there is living space (or living space will be planned in the future) above the garage.

    Why???

    If one foams a house from the foundation to the peak of the roof...
    The house usually is 'too tight'... meaning there is not enough fresh air getting into the house and not enough stale air getting out of the house (infiltration and exfiltration).
    The result is the house gets 'stale' inside (odors, potential lack of O2-oxygen to breathe, a higher potential for organic growth, higher chance of bad organic things in the air-germs and viruses; generally a less healthy environment)...
    The solution is an ERV or HRV or 'energy recovery ventilator/heat recovery ventilator (the latter is better in colder climates, yet cheaper; and is--incorrectly--used in warmer climates due to price). What an EVR/HVR does... is bring in outside air while exhausting inside air, while exchanging the temp between the two air streams (save the heat in the winter, save the cool in the summer).
    When one does the walls with batts insulation... the result is a 'less tight' house... some air movement in and out of the house (infiltration and exfiltration)... which allows for a 'fresher' house.
    One can accomplish the same thing with an installed De-hum unit (Teddy Bear should be along soon to comment).

    We would recommend an ERV for a southern climate with a totally foamed house... we do not recommend substituting an installed de-hum as an alternative... I will defer to others on the details.

    Stay after this... it is your home...
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!

    GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
    *Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
    *The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
    *Cheap is not good, good is not cheap; however expensive is not a guarantee of quality!
    Choose your contractor wisely!

  4. #173
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    6,428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris1584 View Post
    Kinda hard to make a quick store run for refills these days. I am out of popcorn too. In all the pictures posted I included the model numbers that I could find. Sorry there are so many pics to scroll thru, I wanted to make sure I had as many angles and views, as all you professionals see things that I don't even know to look for.
    Only speaking for myself, I was curious as to what size in BTU the Trane furnace was as at least from my end I did not see a data plate displayed in all those photos, typically the data plate will state the model number and serial number and BTU Input ratings, voltage of furnace among other things. Did see it had two burner tubes, but the 26K input and at least the 40K input has two burners also. Reason for the popcorn icon in one of my threads. Where you have your left hand on the outside of the side panel in one of the photos is where the data plate may be located. It’s probably on the inside of that side panel where your hand is resting.

    Anyway you mention the furnace is coming out. If the builder is honest they will give you the complete model number of that furnace as the BTU rating is in the model number. Certainly I would not expect for you to drive out to check as I believe it was a 45 minute drive.

    “ Oh, forgot to say, it is all coming out.”

    Including the cased coil?

  5. #174
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    9,816
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris1584 View Post

    I am not sending/posting the Manual J,
    as I await a response from my builder, concerning the fact that
    the specs he gave are not correct and the Manual J results will change.

    I will post when I get the redo.
    If he knows what he is doing, he would have accounted for
    ALL THE DETAILS
    of his proposed insulation.

    If the walls and ceiling R-values are in the range of R-16 to R-24,
    the results of my previous calculation will not change significantly.

    ~ R-20 Ceiling

    _ Open: 18 = 3.6 per inch * 5"
    Closed: 19 = 6.5 per inch * 3"

    Total R-16+ for Walls
    ________ with ~5" of Fiberglass + R-# ? Exterior board.
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

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