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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    New England
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    Commissioning report is what they do when they start the system and make initial adjustments. Things like static pressure, temperature rise across the Heat Exchanger, amprege draw of all motors and the compressor, final field refrigerant charge, among other things are within manufacturers specifications. You can call them and ask them if they did one, if they say no we did not, you can ask them why not. If they did it ask them if they left a copy by the furnace, along with all the equipment installation manuals. If they did not ask them for a copy.

    Make sure your system got registered as manufacturers warranty decreases significantly if never registered.

    Did they install AHRI matching equipment, as if your state or local utility company has rebates at 18 SEER your system should qualify. You need a AHRI number to prove a matched system was installed. If they did you can ask them for the number.

    If you supply the complete model number of the furnace, outdoor unit, and definitely need the indoor fan model number, should be able to tell if you got a matching system, and can tell you your SEER and EER. You can’t go by the outdoor unit rating alone for SEER, it’s a team effort, of indoor and outdoor selection.

    There are also Federal Tax Credits that your system may apply for.

    https://www.energystar.gov/about/fed...ty_tax_credits

    Possible rebate source: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...iQc0GVu13UMfK_

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sea to Sky
    Posts
    3,650
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmwtulsa View Post
    No humidifier installed, and no dehumidifier installed.
    Heating equipment does not control humidity. If you have humidity issues in the winter from it dropping too low you need a humidifier installed.

    Also as mentioned, results of a blower door test can indicate where building envelope improvements can be made.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Northern Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,089
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmwtulsa View Post

    Now with all of that info, here's the deal: I was advised that this installation would be a game changer. Currently, I am wondering which game it is supposed to change, because simply put: We're still trying to get comfortable.

    I have to keep messing with the thermostat. Basically 70 is not warm enough, but 71 is too warm. There's no sweet spot. Also, when it comes to the idea of this type of furnace helping to eliminate cold spots and remove that feeling of "man it's getting cold, shouldn't the heat kick on?" -- this has not happened either. I also have been noticing that this super fancy furnace does not do a great job with humidity control in the winter. The house can still get bone dry, which I was told would be otherwise.

    When it comes to AC, it's actually pretty decent. Super quiet and efficient and provides comfort, however doesn't remove humidity as much I thought it would

    Thanks for any input and feedback!

    Take care!
    Just commenting on the basics of what your concerns are, because without being onsite it's next to impossible to know what might be at issue.

    You say that 70 isn't warm enough but 71 is too warm. These kinds of problems are a nightmare for a contractor to resolve because they are based on the perception of the homeowner. First thing I would ask (if there) is to detail your feelings of uncomfortable. IE: If you're moving around the home it's too cold. If you're sitting watching TV it's too cold. There is differences between rooms as to when it feels uncomfortable and what are your activities when you sense this. I ask these kinds of questions because the human body has a problem sensing temperature differences of 1 degree as a whole. So, I'm thinking your issue with comfort could be relegated to certain activities and maybe more cold feet than cold head??

    If the home's humidity in the winter isn't high enough and your system doesn't have a means of adding humidity, then the issue is a lack of a means to add humidity.

    You said all the ductwork is in the attic. Does this mean that all of the registers are in the ceilings?

    A dual stage furnace, running on low fire most of the time is going to move a lot less air/velocity than a single stage furnace as you had in the past. Lower air volumes/velocity will result in the air in the rooms not being mixed (between the ceiling and the floor) as well as it probably was with the old system. This will result in the lower 1/3 or so of the room can tend to feel cooler than what the upper 2/3's are. IE: Your head will feel warm and your feet will feel cold. I always tell customers that your body's comfort sensors are your head and feet. In the winter time your feet are what tell you if it's cold in the home and in the summer your head tells you if it's too warm in the home.

    You might want to try running the fan on the furnace continuously to see if "mixing" the air all the time changes your perception of the comfort. If it does you're probably dealing with stratification of the air in the home.

    You might want to ask the dealer if there is a means of locking the furnace into high fire for a test to see if that helps with the heating comfort.

    The humidity issue is only going to be resolved by either adding a whole house humidifier to the system or getting a portable unit for the winter months.

    Dehumidifying in the summer is a function of run time of the air conditioner and correct air flow settings of the furnace fan. The run time is pretty much set as the equipment size verses what you home actually needs isn't going to change. The air flow settings are something your dealer has to do and requires measuring and testing by a qualified technician with the right testing equipment.

    Good luck
    Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.

  4. Likes DOGBOY, trippintl0, joemach, dan sw fl liked this post.
  5. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Piney Flats, Tn.
    Posts
    2,060
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Furnaces are rated in BTU input Not tons.
    A 100K input at 80% efficiency is 80K output.

    3-Tins for 1600 Sq Ft is still old school and unless your down south oversized.
    Quote Originally Posted by Adlerberts-Protege View Post
    2 tons should definitely keep your home comfortable. There is absolutely no way a 3 ton will remove humidity.

    We need a copy of the load calculation please?
    This person is in Tulsa and if you ask the Texas people you will probably find out that it is HOT in Tulsa. My mom still lives there and sometimes when I check the temperatures out there at 11pm their time it can still be over 95*. So I would think that it can not be much if any smaller. Now I could be wrong but we have to remember heat loads are different in different parts of the U.S.

    Firecontrol sounds to be right on with with his statement. And like what was stated a Furnace will not regulate humidity you will have to have a humidifer.

  6. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Piney Flats, Tn.
    Posts
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    WOW i can like again. It seems as if it has been years since that button has worked.

  7. Likes dan sw fl liked this post.
  8. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    9,969
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmwtulsa View Post

    Yes, the power company performed the blower door test.
    I know what you're talking about now with sealing off the open door and running that fan.

    That was definitely performed.
    I cannot remember the exact data, but the gentlemen advised that overall our house performed very well.

    However, now that I've learned more,
    I would of liked to have known where leaky spots are.

    The house has never felt drafty or leaky at all.

    In fact, the bills have been pretty incredible before the HVAC was replaced, and even better after that. That's the best info I have for that.
    "Pretty Incredible " Does that mean HIGH or low?
    50 or 200 therms per month

    500 or 1600 kw-hours / month



    The real purpose of a Blower Door Test is to identify and fix the infiltration ( inleakage).
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

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