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Thread: Dust Costs

  1. #1
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    Dust Costs

    What would be the average cost, per duct, in the Tampa Bay Area. I seem to be getting some low and high numbers on my quotes? Anywhere from $ per duct. When all is said I have a total of 21 ducts. This seems to be the way quoting is done down here.
    Last edited by Dad; 01-25-2020 at 12:23 PM.

  2. #2
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    This site doesn’t allow discussion on job pricing or costs in general.
    It isn’t productive anyway as pricing is very regional.
    I havent failed. Ive just found 10,000 ways that wont work. - Thomas Edison

    Its not whether you get knocked down, its whether you get up. - Vince Lombardi

    "In this house we obey the laws of thermodynamics" - Homer Simpson

    Local 486 Instructor & Service Technician

  3. #3
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    Why are the ducts being replaced?

    Things need to be done in Order
    1) Room by Room Manual "J" To determine heat Load / Loss
    2) Manual "D" to determine what size ducts are needed

  4. #4
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    Just make sure you're comparing like for like. Insulated metal duct trunk with insulated hard pipe is a lot more labor than a duct board distribution box and a spider web of flex .

  5. #5
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Why are the ducts being replaced?

    Things need to be done in Order
    1) Room by Room Manual "J" To determine heat Load / Loss
    2) Manual "D" to determine what size ducts are needed
    Black mold. Was told they can't be cleaned. House was built in 1991.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomv47 View Post
    Black mold. Was told they can't be cleaned. House was built in 1991.
    Was this mold analyzed or the tech just said its black mold?

    What caused the mold?

    What are they doing to prevent it from happening again?

  7. #7
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Was this mold analyzed or the tech just said its black mold?

    What caused the mold?

    What are they doing to prevent it from happening again?
    One morning last August, I happened to go into my garage and found a puddle of water on my floor. I looked up and saw water dripping from my ceiling. I then went up into my attic to look at where the water was coming from and saw the drip pan under my air handler was overflowing with water. I went down and turned off both circuit breakers for the air handler and condenser. Going back up into my attic it became obvious that my main drain line was clogged and any water from the air handler was now overflowing into the drain pan. I could not figure out why the air handler did not shut down because there was a overflow switch mounted on the drip pan to prevent the pan from overflowing onto my attic floor. I then removed one of my air handler side panels only to find about one inch thick body of water inside the air handler. I also noticed that the wires from my drip pan overflow switch were dangling in mid air. The ends of both wires still had wire insulation telling me it had never been hooked up when my air handler was replaced back in 2006. It took me almost a week in hot humid Florida weather running a small window fan to dry everything out inside the air handler. I also was successful cleaning out the clogged main drain. By the looks of the inside of my duct work, it appears my main drain started to slowly clog allowing a lot of water vaper to run through my duct work. Every where I looked I saw back mold so that is why all of it is coming out and being replaced by the blue R8 flex tubing.

  8. #8
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    First make a claim with your insurance company and have the affected components professionally abated.

    Plugged drains usually don't cause duct issues there's something or several things wrong.

    Start with equipment sizing to the building then duct sizing to the equipment.

  9. #9
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    Lots of molds are black. Has lab testing shown yours to be toxic ? 'The' black mold that is so often ranted about is somewhat rare.

    Have you considered using ozone to kill whatever is in there? I often use an ozone generator in moldy houses.



    Quote Originally Posted by Thomv47 View Post
    Black mold. Was told they can't be cleaned. House was built in 1991.
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  10. #10
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    Like asbestos Black Mold MUST be analyzed.

    Samples are taken and sent off site to be analyzed.

  11. #11
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Like asbestos Black Mold MUST be analyzed.

    Samples are taken and sent off site to be analyzed.
    So there is a good possibility that what I see and have been told might not be black mold? Where could I have it professionally analyzed.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomv47 View Post
    So there is a good possibility that what I see and have been told might not be black mold? Where could I have it professionally analyzed.
    First contact your insurance company and see if your covered.

    Then search mold remediation.

    Like HVAC choose the contractor carefully.

  13. #13
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    black mold or not, many people suffer from other mold spores being circulated
    throughout the house.
    the first to suffer these issues are old folks and babies. these molds also
    contribute to sinus/asthma/allergy issues.
    repeat not just the two black molds can cause/exacerbate these breathing issues.

    I also would look beyond the drain issues. As you only want to do this once
    and be done.

    duct and supply plenum leakage will cause mold growth into ducts and into plenums.
    these leakage sites are caused by leaks at start collars at plenum, where duct connects to
    supply boxes and where supply box is not properly sealed to attic floor causing mold growth into supply box.

    often the supply plenum to equipment joint is not well sealed.
    you can use the hardcast 1402 mastic tape for this too.
    takes two people to use long piece of mastic tape. one person on each side of plenum.
    one backing is peeled off mastic tape, the two people ...working together to
    seal this bottom connection.
    again surfaces should be clean and dry for tape to adhere properly.

    these areas should be mastic sealed, the problem with paint on mastic is that it is
    subject to human error.
    mastic applied to thinly (recommended application is as thick as a nickel.
    as it takes time for the mastic to dry so that the seal isn't compromised.
    While hardcast 1402 is twice the price of a gallon of mastic, the time that
    it saves (plus the reason it works best). if you start moving the paint on
    mastic to reconnect ducts...the mastic seal quickly becomes minimally effective.

    My way of sealing these areas are with mastic tape, which provides
    uniform mastic seal. if tape is overlapped, from one piece of tape to the next the leakage is sealed. simply paint mastic on insulation jacket is not sealing duct leakage, as the leakage originates at take off collar to plenum.

    Once I mastic taped duct collar properly, I will also tape inner liner to duct take off collar.
    Then mastic tape outer liner to unit.
    I seldom ever use lock ties, as they compress insulation...adding to condensation issues.

    the only tape I've come to use due to failures of other tapes I've tried, is Hardcast brand 1402 rolled mastic tape. Nashua tape has less mastic, and has high failure rate.
    surfaces for tape to apply is that surfaces be cleaned and dried before application of Hardcast 1402.

    in my 20+ years of dealing with these issues, these are my findings.
    periodically I would re-visit my jobs where mold was an issue, to make sure sealed areas
    remained sealed properly.

    removal of ducts and any molded materials should be placed into plastic bags, sealed shut,
    before carrying though the house.
    this stops mold spores to enter house to be recirculated.

    keep in mind that the supply plenum - if mold has penetrated into this area-- should have interior insulation removed. then the old insulation particles that remain from glue should be scraped out
    and paint on mastic applied to encapsulate insulation. this will keep the insulation out of the
    air being circulated through out the house.
    then the supply plenum can be externally insulated ( use R-8 duct wrap)
    duct stapler and fsk tape to seal.

    this is my way to cure mold issues, and has been working for a lot of years.
    periodically I go back a few years later to verify seals have not failed.

    best of luck
    The cure of the part should not be attempted without the cure of the whole. ~Plato

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