Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 14 to 25 of 25
  1. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
    Posts
    27,291
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by benze View Post
    No; cold water supply. I had asked that at time of install, but had been advised using hot water for different reasons. I never really validated the answers as they made sense to me at the time.

    • waste of hot water
    • hot water (from tank) contains impurities that would be injected into the air
    • hot water temp not high enough to make an impact on an evaporator pad


    Modifying the supply to the HW line would not be particularly difficult; is it worth making the change? Are the above issues not so critical?
    It could make the difference.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Beatrice, NE
    Posts
    10,742
    Post Likes
    Here is your solution, I have done it several times but you may have to find a different HVAC guy.

    Have the HVAC guy build a metal fitting that is big enough to mount the humidifier on so it can be moved up or down as needed. One time I built duct work to fit between the studs that I could mount the humidifier on as there was no place on the supply or return and connected it with pipe/flex. You just need someone to think outside the box/duct.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    101
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by BNME8EZ View Post
    Here is your solution, I have done it several times but you may have to find a different HVAC guy.

    Have the HVAC guy build a metal fitting that is big enough to mount the humidifier on so it can be moved up or down as needed. One time I built duct work to fit between the studs that I could mount the humidifier on as there was no place on the supply or return and connected it with pipe/flex. You just need someone to think outside the box/duct.
    I'm not sure I understand; do you by any chance have a picture or sketch that I can show someone? Is this separate ductwork that would be done in parallel to the return?

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    9,993
    Post Likes

    R.H. % Setpoints

    Reasonable Setpoints


    https://www.wheatandsons.com/blog/fu...er-set-winter/
    __
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Beatrice, NE
    Posts
    10,742
    Post Likes
    Sorry I can't give exact details on an open forum. That is why I said you may need a new guy as it is not rocket science to get air from one duct to another, just in this case it has to go through the humidifier.

    It is not uncommon for people to do things so long that they get tunnel vision on how to do it so they can't see past what they have always done to see what they should do.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    101
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by BNME8EZ View Post
    Sorry I can't give exact details on an open forum. That is why I said you may need a new guy as it is not rocket science to get air from one duct to another, just in this case it has to go through the humidifier.
    Understood. But if i understand you correctly, the incoming air source would be from the supply plenum through the bypass humidifier then. If so, then theoretically this bypass box could be placed anywhere using flex from the supply?

    But I remember being told that with a bypass humidifier to have proper airflow from the supply, the pipe had to be horizontal; using a flex pipe that had bends in it would restrict air and not be efficient.

    If I have an external box like that, wouldn't that issue remain? How will there be enough airflow through the humidifier? Wouldn't placement still be restricted to the same vertical position to ensure the supply line doesn't have bends?

    Would having an additional 4" round fan on the supply pipe to the humidifier provide any advantage to ensure the airflow is high enough?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Beatrice, NE
    Posts
    10,742
    Post Likes
    The humidifier is on the back side of the furnace in the picture shown, right. Your making it much more complicated than it is. A good HVAC guy could figure this out in a heartbeat. As far as losing efficiency from lack of air flow from too many bends. Round numbers a 6" pipe will flow 100 CFM through 100 equivalent feet of pipe, an elbow is 10'. However that is only if it is being pushed/pulled from 1 way. Anytime you have bypass the air is getting pushed from one side and pulled from the other drastically changing how much air it will flow.

    Now back to your original problem. As I noted in an earlier post and Dan noted in post 17 you are almost at optimum levels now. As I understand the humidifier doesn't run every time the blower runs only when the elements or oil furnace run is that right? If you have them switch a few wires so it runs with the heat pump you will have enough if not too much since you are getting moisture on the windows now.

    Just a word of caution, too much humidity in a house can push moisture into your walls which will then reach a point cold enough to condense into water causing mold in you walls. So be careful how humid you get it in the house.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    9,497
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by BNME8EZ View Post
    The humidifier is on the back side of the furnace in the picture shown, right. Your making it much more complicated than it is. A good HVAC guy could figure this out in a heartbeat. As far as losing efficiency from lack of air flow from too many bends. Round numbers a 6" pipe will flow 100 CFM through 100 equivalent feet of pipe, an elbow is 10'. However that is only if it is being pushed/pulled from 1 way. Anytime you have bypass the air is getting pushed from one side and pulled from the other drastically changing how much air it will flow.

    Now back to your original problem. As I noted in an earlier post and Dan noted in post 17 you are almost at optimum levels now. As I understand the humidifier doesn't run every time the blower runs only when the elements or oil furnace run is that right? If you have them switch a few wires so it runs with the heat pump you will have enough if not too much since you are getting moisture on the windows now.

    Just a word of caution, too much humidity in a house can push moisture into your walls which will then reach a point cold enough to condense into water causing mold in you walls. So be careful how humid you get it in the house.
    Or go another route and have it activated anytime the fan is on. Then, run the fan continually in heating season.

    And yes, be careful with humidity levels!!!

    Just because your reference humidity readings are showing one thing does not mean that this is what you use.

    Moisture on windows is a telltale sign of too much humidity.
    The Food Stamp Program, administered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, is proud to be distributing the greatest amount of free meals and stamps EVER.
    Meanwhile, the National Park Service, administered by the U.S. Department of the Interior, asks us to "Please Do Not Feed the Animals". Their stated reason for this policy "... the animals become dependent on handouts and will not learn to take care of themselves."
    from an excerpt by Paul Jacob in Sun City, AZ

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
    Posts
    7,326
    Post Likes
    When I say long bypass I mean make the 6 in pipe long.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    9,497
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by benze View Post
    Understood. But if i understand you correctly, the incoming air source would be from the supply plenum through the bypass humidifier then. If so, then theoretically this bypass box could be placed anywhere using flex from the supply?

    But I remember being told that with a bypass humidifier to have proper airflow from the supply, the pipe had to be horizontal; using a flex pipe that had bends in it would restrict air and not be efficient.

    If I have an external box like that, wouldn't that issue remain? How will there be enough airflow through the humidifier? Wouldn't placement still be restricted to the same vertical position to ensure the supply line doesn't have bends?

    Would having an additional 4" round fan on the supply pipe to the humidifier provide any advantage to ensure the airflow is high enough?
    Don't use flex, it restricts air flow due to its design!!!
    The Food Stamp Program, administered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, is proud to be distributing the greatest amount of free meals and stamps EVER.
    Meanwhile, the National Park Service, administered by the U.S. Department of the Interior, asks us to "Please Do Not Feed the Animals". Their stated reason for this policy "... the animals become dependent on handouts and will not learn to take care of themselves."
    from an excerpt by Paul Jacob in Sun City, AZ

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    78,530
    Post Likes
    You've been told a good bit of BS, by the people you have been talking to. And I'm not referring to anyone posting in this thread.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    101
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    You've been told a good bit of BS, by the people you have been talking to. And I'm not referring to anyone posting in this thread.
    Agreed. Which is why I have trouble finding someone I can trust/believe here. Most guys I find are with bigger outfits who primarily want to sell new systems or have preconceived ideas on how to fix things and don't know how to think out of the box.

    I finally found someone reliable for A/C but he doesn't do residential HVAC, he'll only do AC service calls.

    Hence why I turn to this site to verify/validate so that at least I can have some better understanding of the systems in place.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Contracting Business
HPAC Engineering
EC&M
CONTRACTOR