This is a 208 v, hot dog steam well with ambient exposed element which sits underneath a stainless steel pan filled with water to steam the hot dogs, controlled by infinite switches.
I replaced a 240v, 15 amp(3750 watts) infinite switch with one I had in the truck that is 208v, 13 amp, putting the wattage at 2704. The element wattage is 1750(see pic). The element only pulls about 8 amps.
I do know that the switch has to be capable of handling the wattage in order for the bimetal to stay closed longer and get to the proper temperature.
I turned the new switch to the highest regulated position at 7 on the dial and it shuts off the indicator light in 30 seconds. This new switch is only working on high setting which is continuously passing voltage to the element.
What am I doing wrong here?
1st pic: old switch
2nd pic: new switch
3rd pic: element
At number 1, no amps, it starts to come on at about number 4, but cuts out in a couple seconds and takes a very long time to come back on. So I set it to 7 and it does the same thing. I am thinking it has something to do with the lower voltage and amp rating even though it seems like I got the wattage covered
yes it was. But that switch is so unreliable. I have probably changed that switch 2 times in the past year, so I decided not to order that exact switch again and possibly order a different one with similar ratings, but it was an emergency so i put what I had in.
First, I suggest using OEM parts when repairing appliances. Second, OHMs Law is your friend.
as you see in this thread, both vtp99 and I have been using ohms law but its not yielding answers we need. it does not make sense why a 13 amp switch cannot stay closed long enough on any cycle setting when the heater is only pulling a max of 10 amps.
perhaps these switches need to be rated much higher to control smaller loads( original switch was 15 amps 240 v much higher wattage)
Doesn't the infinite switch have an internal bi-metal switch in series with the heating element that breaks the connection to the heating element? In the OEM infinite switch, isn't that bi-metal switch rated for 240V? Think about it.
With your chrome heart shining in the sun, long may you run.
Doesn't the infinite switch have an internal bi-metal switch in series with the heating element that breaks the connection to the heating element? In the OEM infinite switch, isn't that bi-metal switch rated for 240V? Think about it.
True the original switch is rated for 240 volts but .... isn't it the amperage that activates the bi-metal switch ?
Please explain.
I think the manufacturer uses the higher voltage to cover the end users possible lesser service ie. 208 volt Y Delta vs 240 volt Delta.
They surely wouldn't want it the other way around.
I mistakenly posted that the bi-metal switch is in series with the heating element, though I have seen diagrams that show this to be true. However, Robert Shaw does it differently. Their bi-metal switch has a resistance wire wrapped around it which is connected in parallel with the heating element being controlled and is cycled in unison with the heating element. Nevertheless, the resistance of the bi-metal is designed for 240V, not 208V. That's why there are 208V infinite controls and 240V infinite controls, but there are no 208-240V infinite controls, at least to my knowledge there aren't.
So, the bottom line is you've got an appliance with heating elements rated for 240V that's running on 208V, which is not a big deal, but you've got an OEM control specifically rated for 240V running on 208V and you're using non-OEM replacement parts.
With your chrome heart shining in the sun, long may you run.
Yeah, I did use that to help explain. BTW, whatever happened to Ectofix (Earl)? He could probably explain things a lot better than I did.
He pops in now and then and he is a Guru when it comes to electrical appliances.
Personally I try to avoid the hot side because it comes with all its specialties.
That said I still do it to keep the competition out of my customers door.
He pops in now and then and he is a Guru when it comes to electrical appliances.
Personally I try to avoid the hot side because it comes with all its specialties.
That said I still do it to keep the competition out of my customers door.
He’s definitely a Guru. I’m trying to convince my buddy, who owns an HVAC/R company, to branch out into the hot side. He has a lot of restaurant customers. I did HVAC/R for decades before I got into the hot side. I wish I had started on the hot side. No attics!
With your chrome heart shining in the sun, long may you run.
Reply
Regular Guest
Tommy Brackett liked this post.
Originally Posted by SandShark
