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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
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    Side vented furnace with draft inducer

    So... I have a rental property that has been a royal PITA for the last few years. It's been occupied for a long time and now I'm getting a chance to fix things up for the first time in six years. That said, after all was done and I was collecting my tools, I went in and tried to elevate the heat and the furnace was dead (35 years old. board shot)... I'm really short on money so I found a Lennox 75000 80% on craigslist for $, about 12-14 years old and I just want something to last a few years so I can prepare to buy and install a 90+ furnace. In any event, the old furnace was an 80 with a draft inducer and a "ultravent"? pvc sidewall vent. The new Furnace is a 75000 80 with a draft inducer and I plan on running the same sidewall vent with b vent and a cap outside... or actually, I did so today. Is this a bad idea? I fired it up and the temps seem ok, I have 1" clearance where it goes through the wall. wondering about condensation and any other thing I've overlooked. It was 9 degrees tonight and it seemed to fire and heat the house, none of the three CO2 detectors were going off but I felt a slight leakage from a joint in the flue. I figure the b-vent is an upgrade from the old school PVC. Any thoughts, comments would be appreciated. Can I safely tape those joints?

    Thanks,

    John
    Last edited by beenthere; 12-08-2019 at 07:36 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    78,376
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    A. Prices and pricing are not allowed here.

    B. That furnace is bot permitted to be sidewall vented like you have it.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Metro Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    589
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    Shut it down, this can be a safety hazard. B vent cannot terminate sidewall without an additional vent kit.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    11,703
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP_DIY View Post
    none of the three CO2 detectors were going off but I felt a slight leakage from a joint in the flue.
    If those carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are UL listed, they will not alert you to dangerous levels of CO until they sit in at least 70 PPM for up to 4 hours.

    What is the model number of this used Lennox unit?

    Did you at least try to search the internet for the installation manual on this unit before guessed how to install it?

    If you have leakage out the vent joints, you need to shut the unit down and have it installed correctly.
    Instead of learning the tricks of the trade, learn the trade.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Northern Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,075
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    Let me start with saying that the Ultravent was recalled about 20 years ago due to it's potential to disintegrate and expose the occupants of the home to deadly CO poisoning. Now you are installing equipment in a manner that is not to manufacturer's specifications/code and asking for someone to help you "patch" it enough to not be dangerous.

    I appreciate your situation of being too low on cash to invest in doing things right, but have serious concerns when it comes to your approach to doing things that can become deadly in a home that others will live in. Replacement of heating equipment in most areas is covered by the local code enforcement department of the local government. These would be the people to ask if what you have done, or plan on doing is ok.
    Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    2,593
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    Rental property and a dangerous furnace installation...

    Do you have enough insurance and does your insurance cover improper installation which caused a death trap?

    Consult a heating contractor, you have proved you know so little about heating systems, you will kill someone on day, it is not if it is when, and it might be soon. Quit messing with stuff you know so little about.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    5
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    Thread Starter
    I appreciate your concern. Just to let you know, I was under the direction of an HVAC "PRO" that it would be acceptable to vent the 10' run out of the side of the house using b vent at the wall exit with the use of the furnaces draft inducer. "Acceptable" is one thing, code is another. The fact that that the old setup was that way led me to believe that it was in fact acceptable, I now understand the vague comment I read in another forum about the nightmare of cat 1 and cat 3 furnace venting "nightmares" from years ago. I don't have the furnace running right now so settle down, the unit is not occupied, it's only been test fired and run for maybe 15-20 minutes and I had always planned on having it inspected before ever letting anyone reside there. Also, I went back up there today and realized the perceived leak was actually air coming from a heating duct that was leaking at the joint near the connection. So I'd say everything is in order other than the wall power vent. I think I'll probably just get a HE furnace for the rental unit and save myself all the headaches of this older technology. I'll use this one for a workshop I plan on building on my own property.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    2,593
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    Time to find a actual hvac pro, not the current misinformed hvac so called pro.

    This is common with diyers, the supposed hvac pros that will help or advise diyers usually give very suspected advice.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    5
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    Thread Starter
    I get it now, I've done my research. I'm not just a DIY homeowner, I've worked in various fields of construction half of my life. I appreciate everyone's input and I know that you all know what it takes to do a job correctly, which is exactly why I reached out to you all for your advice. I've built houses with from the foundation up an I know what I can and can not do. This job, with some guidance is totally within my ability. The advice I received wasn't that great to start with on this project and I appreciate your input. Please stop with the "You can't do it, call a pro" sentiment. If that's all you have to offer, why should I even waste another minute in this forum?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    2,593
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    Read the rules when you signed up, diy not here. We can’t help it that you can’t read.

    I am glad you feel capable to perform a job incorrectly and in an unsafe manner, that is not capable, that is dangerous and shows how inept you are at recognizing what is within your capabilities.

    Good luck on your other dangerous adventures that you are capable of performing.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sea to Sky
    Posts
    3,517
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    In my area, even if you are a qualified contractor, you are still not allowed to work on gas fired equipment on rentals that you own.

    This is to prevent this exact scenario where a cheapskate landlord would rather put his tenants lives at risk than have the job done properly.

    If you cannot afford to run your rental business and make necessary repairs...then sell the rental and get out of the business.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    5
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    Thread Starter
    Thanks for your input, you're a true genius. On another note, some day maybe you will be humble and help instead of impede the transfer of knowledge. Thanks again for all of your help.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    5
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    Thread Starter
    If only it were that simple... As I stated before, I was always going to have it inspected by a pro before turning the furnace on, it's only been test fired for a few minutes.. I give up, you all are so defensive, no help to anyone asking for it, I came to the wrong place. Close this thread out please...

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