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  1. #1
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    Nov 2019
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    Smile Carrier Blower Motor / Duct Register Location

    I have a couple of question about furnace blower motors and one about duct register locations.

    I have a Carrier 58PAV111-16116 furnace, and about 6 years ago the blower motor went out. The repairman changed the motor with a Rescue 5470 blower motor. A Carrier HC43AE117 motor is actually the OEM replacement.

    1) Is the Rescue 5470 model an acceptable blower motor to use for the furnace we have?

    I have noticed that some of the rooms do not heat and cool as well as before the repair, and I wondered if the blower motor could be one of the issues.

    The Carrier blower motor is 1/2 HP, and the Rescue blower motor is 1/5-3/4 HP. Both are 115 V 1075 RPM.

    2) Do the 1/2 HP and 1/5-3/4 HP blower motors operate differently?

    The room in the house that gets the coldest in the Fall/Winter is a bedroom. On cold days, going to bed it could be 74F in the room, but then getting up it ends up dropping to around 65F. Also, I usually have a lamp with 200 watt incandescent bulb turned on in the bedroom just to warm it up during the daytime... otherwise, it just stays around 66F-70F for most of the day.

    We have a one-story house with basement. Following the ductwork in the basement, I noticed that one register for the basement is exactly where the ductwork branches off for the cold bedroom. And, the more the basement register is open the weaker the airflow is for the cold bedroom. I can't close the basement register fully because the basement will get too cold.

    3) Is it correct to have the basement register located exactly where the ductwork branches off for the bedroom register?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Chico, Ca #StateofJefferson
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    1. That motor CAN work perfectly fine as a replacement motor IF the instructions are followed.
    2. They are both permanent split capacitor motors and fundamentally operate the same, only difference would be in the install. Probably time for a seasonal servicing of the heating system. Could be the blower wheel or evap coil are impacted and need cleaning or it was never installed correctly, could be other things too
    3. If you close off the register fully, does it provide enough air to keep that room? Sounds like a bad ducting design. Most of the basement "registers" I see are little more than badly cut rectangles in the sheetmetal and depressurize the rest of the duct system.

  3. #3
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    Nov 2019
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    Thread Starter
    Makeitcold, thank you for answering my questions.

    It sounds like the replacement motor is an acceptable replacement but not OEM. The blower motor went out late at night in the winter, and the repairman replaced it with what he had on hand. I had checked the blower motor wiring connections he made for the various speeds, and those seemed to be correct. I will have a different repairman come out, and I will make sure to ask him to check everything with the blower motor, blower wheel, and evaporator coils. I know we never had anyone out to clean the furnace evaporator coils.

    I attached a few photos to show how the duct register in the basement is located right where the duct branches off for the cold bedroom. I also removed the register to show the opening and duct connection to the bedroom. If that register is fully closed, the cold bedroom gets a little warmer but is not warm enough, and the basement gets too cold.

    There are three registers in the basement... 1 at the start of the ductwork (where the bedroom duct branches off), 1 at the end of the ductwork, and 1 on the return (this has to be open or else the duct with make all sorts of noise because of the pressure changes for when the furnace is running and shutting off).
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  4. #4
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    Mar 2018
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    You have a very poor duct design my friend. Going off the photos and info you've given, your massively de-pressurizing your home by pumping that heated air into your garage and unfinished basement, basically outdoors. This causes the higher pressure outside air to come rushing thru window frames, electrical outlets and under doors to equalize pressures. Simultaneously you have the proverbial screen door on the submarine, you need a certain amount of static pressure on the supply side to keep the ducting pressurized and the(hopefully)correct CFM of air moving at the correct velocity. If you have someone come do a PM, ask them to take pictures of the blades of the blower wheel and the fan side of the evap coil to show its clean. Then cover the basement holes up fully, tape around them and ask for your supply and return static pressure to be measured, that will give an idea if your ducting is even able to carry its rated capacity into the house

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    I don't see any mention of garage in his post. If the ducts do there, it is certainly a code violation and a safety issue.
    The duct work is certainly of bad design and poorly done.

    OP, have a tech measure furnace temperature rise. That is the proper way to set blower speeds. Once that has been done, the duct system must be addressed to get the delivery of heat right.
    AOP Rules: Rules For Equipment Owners.

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  6. #6
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    Nov 2019
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    Thread Starter
    The ducts are all in the basement. There is no garage attached to the house. The house was built back in 1953, and those are the original ducts. The house only had a furnace back then, and a/c was added to the system in the 1970s. Most of the houses around here probably have an identical or very similar design.

    I attached a couple of pictures of the blower wheel, and overall it didn't look all that dirty to me. If anything, the furnace coils could be dirty, but I didn't feel comfortable disassembling anything to try and check that... that would be something I'd have the repairman check. Any time I have a repairman out, I watch exactly what they're doing, so if cleaning is done I'll see it.

    The temperature of the duct right off the furnace is around 143.9F (see photo)

    It looks like the Rescue 5470 blower motor has been wired this way (see photo):
    Heat - blue
    Cool - black
    Spare 1 - yellow
    Spare 2 - red

    If I go by this information for the motor (
    I can't post URLs yet, but the address is: acim.nidec.com/motors/usmotors/-/media/usmotors/documents/literature/products/training_rescuehvacoverview.ashx ), then:
    Black - high
    Blue - med high
    Yellow - med low
    Red - low

    ...and that seems to be correct if I interpreted everything correctly.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  7. #7
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    Aug 2002
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    Southold, NY
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    When those ducts were first sized the equipment was a low velocity high temperature system. Today’s equipment is higher velocity lower temperatures.
    The two really don’t work well together.

  8. #8
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    Thread Starter
    I am not really sure how all of the ductwork could be done differently for the house. I could see the two registers for the basement being located somewhere else or branched off. The basement definitely needs to be heated.

    The house has just one floor and the basement, and it is 960 square feet.

    What would be helpful to see is a video or series of photos for a properly done HVAC system and ductwork for a similar size home. If anyone can link a website or video of something like that so I can see what it should look like, I would really appreciate it.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Defenestrator View Post
    I am not really sure how all of the ductwork could be done differently for the house. I could see the two registers for the basement being located somewhere else or branched off. The basement definitely needs to be heated.

    The house has just one floor and the basement, and it is 960 square feet.

    What would be helpful to see is a video or series of photos for a properly done HVAC system and ductwork for a similar size home. If anyone can link a website or video of something like that so I can see what it should look like, I would really appreciate it.
    Watch this video to understand why duct design is NOT something you can learn in an hour or a day from a website or a video.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpdRUXr-KDo
    AOP Rules: Rules For Equipment Owners.

    Free online load calculator: http://www.loadcalc.net/


    There = not here. Their = possessive pronoun. They're = they are
    It's = contraction of it is. Its = the possessive form of it
    Too = also. To = expressing motion. Two = 2
    Then = after that, next. Than = indicates a comparison.
    Questions should end with a question mark "?" Statements end with a period "."

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