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  1. #66
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    I am eagerly awaiting an update from PHM......
    [Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
    2 Tim 3:16-17

    RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
    Member, IAEI

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  2. #67
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    Sep 2002
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    Virginia
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    Why do I picture a chevy van out front with a "Free" sign ...

  3. #68
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    Mar 2018
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    Sumter, SC
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    The problem is with your fuel pump. You need 60lbs or better for the truck to start. If your gauge is even a little off, you said 55lbs, you don't have enough psi. Check it when you are attempting to start the truck, not just when turn on the ignition. Been there and done this before.

    If you want to make sure, just squirt some fuel down the intake and attempt to start the truck.

  4. #69
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Thread Starter
    You have time for a cold one at least. <g>

    I have been building a custom oak staircase and then building a living room around it. Tedious enough under normal circumstances but the floors (first and second) are apparently 'twisted' slightly in relation to each other. So even though the staircase is straight - every tread, riser, and baluster angle changes slightly in two directions and so each has to be custom fitted; patterns made, etc..

    I am going to try to hook up the live data scanner to the GMC this evening if I get to it.

    PHM
    ---------


    Quote Originally Posted by timebuilder View Post
    I am eagerly awaiting an update from PHM......
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  5. #70
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    Sep 2002
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    Thread Starter
    It wouldn't fire on ether / starting fluid in the intake.
    The plugs I checked all had spark.
    Every cylinder simultaneously losing compression seemed unlikely.
    Which is why I headed down the timing rabbit-hole.

    I hope your right anyway - I don't know where the fuel pump is but I'm pretty darned sure I would rather change it than I would continue working on the front of this barely-reachable engine. <g>

    PHM
    -------



    Quote Originally Posted by Fender60 View Post
    The problem is with your fuel pump. You need 60lbs or better for the truck to start. If your gauge is even a little off, you said 55lbs, you don't have enough psi. Check it when you are attempting to start the truck, not just when turn on the ignition. Been there and done this before.

    If you want to make sure, just squirt some fuel down the intake and attempt to start the truck.
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  6. #71
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    Sep 2002
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    Thread Starter
    It is a funny image but I like the van so much that I'd probably have a new engine installed before I'd replace the truck.

    PHM
    -------


    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    Why do I picture a chevy van out front with a "Free" sign ...
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  7. #72
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    Nov 2006
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    Southeastern Pa
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    Actually, fuel pressure is not enough.

    You must have fuel flow.

    The Bosch industry standard for intake runner injection is one pint of flow in 30 seconds. If the pump can't make the flow, it won't make the pressure either. Flow is where it is at with injection diags.

    That said, it is least likely you have a fuel pump problem.

    HOWEVER...

    you DO need to look along the frame near the fuel tank and see if GM was still using the cylindrical fuel filters with the flare nut at each end. Those were known to clog up at about 60k. Ford stopped using fuel filters on the vans, but I doubt that GM did the same.
    [Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
    2 Tim 3:16-17

    RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
    Member, IAEI

    AOP Forum Rules:







  8. #73
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
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    Quote Originally Posted by Missouri Guy View Post
    I have seen the rotor burn a small small hole in the middle and arc down to the shaft..
    I have seen distributor caps go bad to where it arcs to one post each spark due to carbon tracking... Scratchs.. cracks.. so it it trying to fire two posts at once.
    Let's just say the number four post for instance... It will get a spark each time from the crack and the post that is supposed to get the spark only gets limited voltage... That number four now firing random can cause bucking.. back firing terrible idle and so on.
    I first suspected distributor trouble... But I cant get away that the problem began when you had a temporary connection problem at the battery.
    Maybe you just had a terrible day and this problem would have occurred anyway if there had been no connection loss.... In that case with General Motors the problem is often right at the distributor...Cheap rotors used to be a problem (arcing to the post).. but you have spark which can still be a bad cap tracking on the inside.


    Sent from LG Stylo 4 using Tapatalk
    Have not read the whole thread...
    However this quoted post would be my thoughts...

    I had a 2002 Express with 5.7 engine (yeah, the old 350)...
    Had to replace the cap/rotor about every 8-9000 miles... due to arcing.

    The first time it happened... did not know what it was... and spent all day fussing with it until I found it... by accident.

    The symptoms were: it would just die... no warning at all... just die!
    Sometimes it would happen between runs (shut it down, then no start)...
    Other times, it would just quit while I was driving... just quit.

    Tell tall sign... cranking produced gas smell at the exhaust pipe...
    But no 'firing' at all.
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!

    GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
    *Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
    *The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
    *Cheap is not good, good is not cheap; however expensive is not a guarantee of quality!
    Choose your contractor wisely!

  9. #74
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    Aug 2009
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    Beatrice, NE
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    I didn't remember if you said you checked spark gap. As plugs wear the gap increases, as the gap increases so does amperage. You get enough amps and the rotor cap goes bad.
    Even if you change the cap it does not take long for it to break down and arc across.

  10. #75
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    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
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    Read the entire thread... this brings back memories... as I am sure it does for most of us...

    *Had a Jaguar XKE roadster back in the day... wish I had kept it, they are worth a fortune now...
    Fun car... albeit a maintenance hog. And yeah... Lucas electrical systems, cool design, lots of bugs to fix.

    *Been there, done that, have multiple T shirts; the thing about the extra part after finishing the job...
    (Age=getting older-sucks)

    *Back on your van: take the radiator out... makes it easy as it can be... to work on the front of the engine...
    I changed the 350 engine in that 2002 back when... GM in their wisdom had a bad intake design, gaskets failed. Result was coolant leaks and ultimately a failed head gasket. Easier to put a 'Mr GoodWrench' replacement engine in... than to try to remove the engine and replace the head gasket. Replaced lots of things along the way: tranny front seal, motor mounts, misc hoses and pipes and sensors, etc. Van ran GREAT for about 50K... then the intake started leaking again. That engine was a P-I-A...
    Amazing... that GM could take what used to be one of the best engines ever (the small block chevy)... and ruin it with all these design changes.

    Now I have a 2016 Express 3500 LWB (long wheel base) van with the 6.0 engine (340 HP version)... bought the van used with 20K on it, now it has 54K... runs great!

    My thoughts on the engine issue of this thread:
    *Go ahead and finish the timing chain replacement... you already have it apart... get it done.
    *After it is done... spin the engine around to TDC fire #1... and re-install the distributor, with a new cap and rotor.
    *Check all the connections to engine sensors and grounding connections all over the engine
    *Stop and consider if you have forgotten anything...
    *Crawl up in the drivers seat, take a deep breath, and turn that key...

    Then come back here and we will all try to decide what it was that make it work...



    One more thing on this engine...
    I do not remember where I found this... albeit I think it was a Utube video...
    After you get it running... take a used (still serviceable) distributor cap... and drill 2x 1/2" holes in it where you can see the spark going from the rotor to a terminal (does not matter which terminal). When you have it running, remove the wire to the cam sensor (dist sensor), and run the engine at 1200 RPM's... then twist the distributor for the smallest spark (closest to actual timing point).
    Then shut it off, change to a good cap, put the wire back on, and you are good to go.
    Keep that cap handy... for the next time the distributor is out.

    The first time I did this, the spark was something like 1/4" long... got it aligned just right!
    Seemed to start easier also.

    Now, as others have suggested...

    We are waiting to hear the results of this brain-teaser of a problem...
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!

    GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
    *Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
    *The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
    *Cheap is not good, good is not cheap; however expensive is not a guarantee of quality!
    Choose your contractor wisely!

  11. #76
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    27,230
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Thanks.

    I replaced the distributor and the plugs a few thousand miles ago and noticed then that the leading corner of the rotor tip was all that was burned on it. Even though the rotor tip is about a 1/4" wide.

    I was looking for TDC again the morning - and wanted to make sure it was the right one by checking the rotor position. <g> And I noticed that same leading corner burnt. So maybe the spark arrives in advance of the tip actually getting to the proper contact in the cap.

    I have the radiator out - but it's Not Easy At All to work on the front of the engine. <g>. With the V8 everything is a foot closer to the front. This is the V6 - so everything is set back an extra foot: just out of arm's reach. <g>

    PHM
    -------


    Quote Originally Posted by ga-hvac-tech View Post
    Read the entire thread... this brings back memories... as I am sure it does for most of us...

    *Had a Jaguar XKE roadster back in the day... wish I had kept it, they are worth a fortune now...
    Fun car... albeit a maintenance hog. And yeah... Lucas electrical systems, cool design, lots of bugs to fix.

    *Been there, done that, have multiple T shirts; the thing about the extra part after finishing the job...
    (Age=getting older-sucks)

    *Back on your van: take the radiator out... makes it easy as it can be... to work on the front of the engine...
    I changed the 350 engine in that 2002 back when... GM in their wisdom had a bad intake design, gaskets failed. Result was coolant leaks and ultimately a failed head gasket. Easier to put a 'Mr GoodWrench' replacement engine in... than to try to remove the engine and replace the head gasket. Replaced lots of things along the way: tranny front seal, motor mounts, misc hoses and pipes and sensors, etc. Van ran GREAT for about 50K... then the intake started leaking again. That engine was a P-I-A...
    Amazing... that GM could take what used to be one of the best engines ever (the small block chevy)... and ruin it with all these design changes.

    Now I have a 2016 Express 3500 LWB (long wheel base) van with the 6.0 engine (340 HP version)... bought the van used with 20K on it, now it has 54K... runs great!

    My thoughts on the engine issue of this thread:
    *Go ahead and finish the timing chain replacement... you already have it apart... get it done.
    *After it is done... spin the engine around to TDC fire #1... and re-install the distributor, with a new cap and rotor.
    *Check all the connections to engine sensors and grounding connections all over the engine
    *Stop and consider if you have forgotten anything...
    *Crawl up in the drivers seat, take a deep breath, and turn that key...

    Then come back here and we will all try to decide what it was that make it work...



    One more thing on this engine...
    I do not remember where I found this... albeit I think it was a Utube video...
    After you get it running... take a used (still serviceable) distributor cap... and drill 2x 1/2" holes in it where you can see the spark going from the rotor to a terminal (does not matter which terminal). When you have it running, remove the wire to the cam sensor (dist sensor), and run the engine at 1200 RPM's... then twist the distributor for the smallest spark (closest to actual timing point).
    Then shut it off, change to a good cap, put the wire back on, and you are good to go.
    Keep that cap handy... for the next time the distributor is out.

    The first time I did this, the spark was something like 1/4" long... got it aligned just right!
    Seemed to start easier also.

    Now, as others have suggested...

    We are waiting to hear the results of this brain-teaser of a problem...
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  12. #77
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    27,230
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    Thread Starter
    It was damp and cold and dismal outside today but after a while tweaking the oak got on my nerves so I wandered out to the truck.
    The reluctor ring had been RTV'ed on by some previous azzhole but I finally got it off in one piece. After I went to pick up all the new parts and found it didn't include the lower u-shaped seal for the bottom of the timing cover. Some fiddling on their computer and I found that the lower curve of the timing cover seals against the oil pan gasket. So now I have to pull the friggin oil pan off. <g>

    OH!!!! That reminds me of a question I want to ask you all!
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  13. #78
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    US of A
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    Thanks.

    I replaced the distributor and the plugs a few thousand miles ago and noticed then that the leading corner of the rotor tip was all that was burned on it. Even though the rotor tip is about a 1/4" wide.

    I was looking for TDC again the morning - and wanted to make sure it was the right one by checking the rotor position. <g> And I noticed that same leading corner burnt. So maybe the spark arrives in advance of the tip actually getting to the proper contact in the cap.

    I have the radiator out - but it's Not Easy At All to work on the front of the engine. <g>. With the V8 everything is a foot closer to the front. This is the V6 - so everything is set back an extra foot: just out of arm's reach. <g>

    PHM
    -------

    How are the plug wires? Are you buying oem parts or at least matching brand parts? Is the carbon button shiny or dull?

    Why is the radiator out when you have low fuel pressure?
    Signature removed Violated rule #15

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