Hanging out with the mice behind the fridge talking bad about the roaches in the oven.
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Wow that is huge. I have not worked on anything near that big but when we have stuck shafts we use soafoam deep creep. I have no idea if that would help but thats my best idea.
What is that on?
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I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
Hanging out with the mice behind the fridge talking bad about the roaches in the oven.
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Wow. Thats too cool.
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"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - senior tech
I'm tired of these mediocre "semi flammable" refrigerants. If we're going to do it let's do it right.
Unless we change direction we are likely to end up where we are going.
"It's not new, it's better than new!" Maru.
WD-40, rags... spray that shaft, wipe the crud off of it.
60 grit sandpaper.
WD-40, hammer on everything, might want to have ear plugs at this point.
repeat any and all steps necessary.
It`s better to be silent and thought the fool; than speak and remove all doubt.
Can’t really tell by the pic there. Is the pic with the puller attempting to remove the blower wheel? Not sure since you’re clamped around the shaft and also pushing on the shaft.....
If you’re removing the wheel, you have to heat the wheel, not the shaft. You need ALOT of heat REAL fast. You have to heat the wheel hub a hot as you can, as fast as you can before the shaft heats up. If you can cool the shaft at the same time, that helps. Liquid CO2, etc.
Realistically though, you may not be able to get it in the field. We’ve had to take wheels that size to a machine shop to have them pressed off the shafts.
If you don’t care about the shaft, cut it off close to the wheel, then drill out the center a little at a time until you can get a sawsall blade in there to cut slots outward toward the wheel hub. Eventually you’ll get enough material out that it will let go.
Really though, the amount of time and effort expended for that, just take it to a machine shop.
What happened, bearings fail and narf up the shaft. Wheel fail?. With a failed bearing that has dug into the shaft. We had just moved the the shaft out a few inches. In your case it looks like your past that option. I would order a new shaft but in your case you may need a machine shop to cut you one with the proper key ways.
Bearing block came loose, wore a spot in the shaft. This is suspended over the production floor of the factory with a catwalk access. The other side of the wheel has no access for a few feet until the belt and bearing area, we might cut an access in the duct. If we can’t get it with the heat and puller tomorrow, the machine shop
Just cut out the housing, then patch it back together. Be smart about the patch, bolts or welding, be careful relying on sheet metal screws of any size. Unless you make the patch larger than the hole, so it couldn’t be sucked in if the fasteners fail.
Are you replacing the shaft because the shaft is bad from where the bearings ate into the shaft?Can you cut off the bearings with a right angle grinder/ Remove the old bearings.make a plate and bolt and weld it to where the old bearing bolts up.The plate is wider than where the old bearings sat.Now you have a larger plate. Put the new bearings onto the new plate, out from the damaged shaft.In other words ,mount the bearings on the extended plate, where the shaft is still good.Not sure if what I'm saying would work here?I'm not there.I did something like that.A long time ago.Good Luck!!! I think you will play hell ,trying to remove that shaft.Will it get free from the wheel?
It looks like you almost got it free with the puller on it. Are you hanging up at the very end there? If you were beating in it with a hammer then it’s probably mushroomed out the end. It only takes a little imperfection to ruin the day. I find preparation is 90% of the job when doing shafts, bearings, and pulleys. Push it back through the other way and file mushroomed head off the end then use the puller to push the shaft through.
Also, I’m sure you’ve already done it but I’ll say it anyway. File off all the divots where set screws touched the shaft, make that thing shiny clean, and lube it up like it’s Saturday night. Eliminate any source of friction that you can. Pulling a scuff through a bore only tries to bind up as it digs into the bore and drags through the metal collar.
Some times of you need to beat on the collar instead of the shaft you can slide a tube over the shaft and use a block of wood to give yourself something to strike against. I like the 10 lb short handle sludge hammer for jobs this size.
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To clarify, when I say to lube it up I mean with a penetrant not grease. WD-40 or similar works well for me.
Sand the shaft bright and smooth. Should look new when you are done. Grinder with a soft wire brush may be your friend for that task followed up by sand cloth then apply WD-40 for the slide.
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Quickly, I must hurry, for there go my people and I am their leader!
The shaft is flush with the hub on the wheel. The square key will not budge. We spent 3 hours on it yesterday and got nothing. I will post more pics tonight. Thanks everyone.
Now that I take a close look at the picture, I am in the machine shop camp.
The bearing separator being used to grasp the wheel hub is also forcing the hub tighter on the shaft. You wouldn't think so when you look at the thickness of the hub, but all you need to make it tighter is to distort the hub by a few ten thousandths of an inch.
What this hub needs is several (eight or ten) threaded holes around the face of the hub, so that a press plate with a center forcing screw could be bolted to the hub using the threaded holes, and then, using a great deal of heat, the shaft could be pressed out of the hub.
That hole boring would be a job for a milling machine or lathe. Trying to bore holes that are parallel to the shaft with the work not chucked into position would be VERY difficult.
I would start calling around to see which machine shop has riggers that can help you get it to them, and let them take on this job.
Or, walk away.
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.] 2 Tim 3:16-17
Now that I take a close look at the picture, I am in the machine shop camp.
The bearing separator being used to grasp the wheel hub is also forcing the hub tighter on the shaft. You wouldn't think so when you look at the thickness of the hub, but all you need to make it tighter is to distort the hub by a few ten thousandths of an inch.
What this hub needs is several (eight or ten) threaded holes around the face of the hub, so that a press plate with a center forcing screw could be bolted to the hub using the threaded holes, and then, using a great deal of heat, the shaft could be pressed out of the hub.
That hole boring would be a job for a milling machine or lathe. Trying to bore holes that are parallel to the shaft with the work not chucked into position would be VERY difficult.
I would start calling around to see which machine shop has riggers that can help you get it to them, and let them take on this job.
Or, walk away.
Actually timebuilder if you look even closer he's wedged behind the hub. Really all he needs is threads in that bracket center hole so he can run a bolt into the shaft center.
I have had excellent luck with a product called Kroil (Liquid in can) or AiroKroil (spray can). Bees wax also works well warm the shaft brush on the bees wax it will penetrate but may take a little bit of time.
How big is the key, I have drilled and tapped the key and used a slide hammer to remove the key, which allowed just enough to remove the shaft from the hub
Over the years I have done a lot of in place machine work. Depending on how thick the web of the blower wheel is you could try a mag-base drill to drill the shaft and relieve the tension. Start small and keep increase drill bit diameters until its free. If the web starts to deflect the drill bit could wander or break then you have that to deal with.
If you can take the shaft & wheel to a machine shop, drill it out, it will minimize damaging the hub of the blower wheel
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Bearing block came loose, wore a spot in the shaft. This is suspended over the production floor of the factory with a catwalk access. The other side of the wheel has no access for a few feet until the belt and bearing area, we might cut an access in the duct. If we can’t get it with the heat and puller tomorrow, the machine shop
Originally Posted by timebuilder
