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Thread: Freezer Drain

  1. #1
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    Freezer Drain

    Was working on a drain for a -20* F. walking freezer today. The drain line was run with 3/4 PVC that had a pipe heater covered with foam tape and finished off with armflex. I'm wondering if the standard is to always leave the heater on or have it come on and off during defrost.
    my thinking is water will only be present during defrost so during defrost is the only time needed. Just always trying to absorb others knowledge thanks once again for any input.

  2. #2
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    Generally i see them on all the time. Only on in defrost might be not enough heat and cause trouble especially on long drain lines

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  3. #3
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    Thread Starter
    I know drain has had this set up for years and has not had any drain problems with the exception of the broken 90* which was causing a ice mess under drain. just during the service of repair checked heater operation before I reinsulated pipe and found how it was wired. Kinda bounced on all the time and off all the time back and forth for a while and decided to ask on here for the future and said let it ride for now. Thanks for the input.

  4. #4
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    Had problems with PVC drains in freezers, due to having worse heat transfer rate then Copper. I guess if its insulated well it works like you said.
    Heat tape always stays on due to reason outlines by previous poster about life g drain line.


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  5. #5
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    PVC should not have heat tape, copper only.

    How is the heat tape cycling on and off?

  6. #6
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    I would for sure get rid of whatever is cycling it on and off and wire it to be on 24/7.

    Freezer drains SUCK to redo. One of the worst jobs in my opinion right behind door frame heaters. So if you're gonna fix it, fix it good and right so you only have to do it once.
    Wire it hot 24/7. If its on a GFI get it off the GFI and on a standard outlet. I have had so many nuisance GFI trips for no reason that have caused problems on new installs.
    If ANY of the insulation is wet, its trash and needs to be thrown out. Thoroughly check the drain and run water down it. Any broken sections either repair or replace. Use copper! Best heat transfer for the heat tape.
    Buy good quality heat tape. We use Raychem from our supplier.
    Some guys just run the heat tape along the bottom of the drain. We wrap it around the pipe all the way up to the evap drain fitting. Where the drain line exits the freezer it should be trapped before heading to the drain. The trap should have heat tape around it as well. Dont put the trap inside the freezer, the trap needs to be outside the box of the freezer.

    Insulate the drain line good and tight. For a 0F box use 1/2 wall. For lower box temp use 3/4 wall.

    Thats my input for drain line/heater repair. Cheers man!

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by UmmScott View Post
    I would for sure get rid of whatever is cycling it on and off and wire it to be on 24/7.

    Freezer drains SUCK to redo. One of the worst jobs in my opinion right behind door frame heaters. So if you're gonna fix it, fix it good and right so you only have to do it once.
    Wire it hot 24/7. If its on a GFI get it off the GFI and on a standard outlet. I have had so many nuisance GFI trips for no reason that have caused problems on new installs.
    If ANY of the insulation is wet, its trash and needs to be thrown out. Thoroughly check the drain and run water down it. Any broken sections either repair or replace. Use copper! Best heat transfer for the heat tape.
    Buy good quality heat tape. We use Raychem from our supplier.
    Some guys just run the heat tape along the bottom of the drain. We wrap it around the pipe all the way up to the evap drain fitting. Where the drain line exits the freezer it should be trapped before heading to the drain. The trap should have heat tape around it as well. Dont put the trap inside the freezer, the trap needs to be outside the box of the freezer.

    Insulate the drain line good and tight. For a 0F box use 1/2 wall. For lower box temp use 3/4 wall.

    Thats my input for drain line/heater repair. Cheers man!

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  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by UmmScott View Post
    I would for sure get rid of whatever is cycling it on and off and wire it to be on 24/7.

    Freezer drains SUCK to redo. One of the worst jobs in my opinion right behind door frame heaters. So if you're gonna fix it, fix it good and right so you only have to do it once.
    Wire it hot 24/7. If its on a GFI get it off the GFI and on a standard outlet. I have had so many nuisance GFI trips for no reason that have caused problems on new installs.
    If ANY of the insulation is wet, its trash and needs to be thrown out. Thoroughly check the drain and run water down it. Any broken sections either repair or replace. Use copper! Best heat transfer for the heat tape.
    Buy good quality heat tape. We use Raychem from our supplier.
    Some guys just run the heat tape along the bottom of the drain. We wrap it around the pipe all the way up to the evap drain fitting. Where the drain line exits the freezer it should be trapped before heading to the drain. The trap should have heat tape around it as well. Dont put the trap inside the freezer, the trap needs to be outside the box of the freezer.

    Insulate the drain line good and tight. For a 0F box use 1/2 wall. For lower box temp use 3/4 wall.

    Thats my input for drain line/heater repair. Cheers man!

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    I'd go one step further and wire the heater direct to the power for the coil rather than an outlet.

    As far as pvc drains, I'd prefer running the heat tape on the inside of the drain rather than the outside.
    Officially, Down for the count

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  11. #9
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    Are you pulling an extra conductor in that case to make sure that the heater I always on or what are your connection points inside the Evap Coil?
    Quote Originally Posted by 2sac View Post
    I'd go one step further and wire the heater direct to the power for the coil rather than an outlet.

    As far as pvc drains, I'd prefer running the heat tape on the inside of the drain rather than the outside.



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  13. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ritchy.wall View Post
    Are you pulling an extra conductor in that case to make sure that the heater I always on or what are your connection points inside the Evap Coil?





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    Use a 6w 240v Raychem heater designed for wet areas. Raychem also sells different connectors and ends to make custom lengths. Connect to your evaporator terminal strip. Due to this being in an open forum, I cannot tell you which terminals, but if you can read a wiring diagram, you can figure it out.
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

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  15. #11
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    The reason Im asking, unless you pull another Conductor you heater will only be on during defrost or freeze cycle.
    Thats just the way I have encountered it many times, defrost heater comes on during Defrost, wired to the same terminals as coil defrost heaters and causing drain freeze up problems, especially if insulation quality gets compromised.
    Quote Originally Posted by 2sac View Post
    Use a 6w 240v Raychem heater designed for wet areas. Raychem also sells different connectors and ends to make custom lengths. Connect to your evaporator terminal strip. Due to this being in an open forum, I cannot tell you which terminals, but if you can read a wiring diagram, you can figure it out.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #12
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    Wire in freeze cycle. Not needed with warm water flowing

  17. #13
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    We typically use 120V Raychem self regulating heat trace. We stock rolls of it at the shop and termination kits so it can be cut to length. We have it on a separate circuit from the evap. Use copper drains and insulate well.

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