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  1. #1
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    Never saw this before- Baffled!

    So I did a maintenance on a hot water oil boiler. All tuned it up and was running clean & great.

    Pressure 12 psi cold 14-15 when running.

    Just before leaving I check the auto air bleeder and push the schrader valve in and release a bunch of air. Now I can't get the pressure above 4 psi. Cold or running even just the pump (has domestic). The pressure will not move.

    Here are some pics of the fill regulator. Never say this before either.

    What the heck did I do wrong here. Not cold enough for heat just yet so no big deal right now, domestic is fine at 60 psi. So he can use that.

    I am at a real loss here as to what the heck is going on.

    I put a separate gauge on one of the drain valves and confirmed the pressure at around 5 psi.

    That thing below the air scoop is the regulator. Do they ever go bad? I see no way to adjust.

    I did a power purge and I did see it fill so I have no idea what is going on here.

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    Can someone please explain to me -
    Why is there never enough time to do it right the first time, but plenty of time to do it twice?


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  2. #2
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    The "extrol" tank pressure controls the system pressure. What was the air pressure in the tank? The tank should be isolated to properly check. I believe it has a removable strainer also. I imagine the check valve could be stuck. I forget without one in front of me if it has an external adjustment.

    I don't see how a proper maintenance could have been done if it was so low on water. (Since you only let air out acc. to your post.) JS
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  3. #3
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    The Amtrol filtrol comes as a set with the tank and autofill. I would change the air vent while you are at it. Does it have a LWCO? Good time to consider that while you have the system open. I assume the system is shut down in this unsafe low water condition.
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  4. #4
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    That’s way old style. Better off replacing the tank and fill valve with a newer style FB 38. And if the tank is bad, you can’t just replace the tank.


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  5. #5
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by pageyjim View Post
    The "extrol" tank pressure controls the system pressure. What was the air pressure in the tank? The tank should be isolated to properly check. I believe it has a removable strainer also. I imagine the check valve could be stuck. I forget without one in front of me if it has an external adjustment.

    I don't see how a proper maintenance could have been done if it was so low on water. (Since you only let air out acc. to your post.) JS
    I did not have an air gauge to check the air pressure in the tank. Going back tomorrow with a good one. First boiler of the season and need to get my boiler tools all together.

    While doing the maintenance the pressure in the boiler maintained 14-15 psi while running and escribed in my first post. The boiler pressure only dropped after I released some air. I don't get it either. Makes no sense.
    Can someone please explain to me -
    Why is there never enough time to do it right the first time, but plenty of time to do it twice?


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  6. #6
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Metalman0880 View Post
    That’s way old style. Better off replacing the tank and fill valve with a newer style FB 38. And if the tank is bad, you can’t just replace the tank.


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    When I did a power purge on the whole system, new water did come into the boiler.
    Can someone please explain to me -
    Why is there never enough time to do it right the first time, but plenty of time to do it twice?


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by joemach View Post
    I did not have an air gauge to check the air pressure in the tank. Going back tomorrow with a good one. First boiler of the season and need to get my boiler tools all together.

    While doing the maintenance the pressure in the boiler maintained 14-15 psi while running and escribed in my first post. The boiler pressure only dropped after I released some air. I don't get it either. Makes no sense.
    I suggested to replace the same with same bc it would be much easier and quicker and less costly than having to repipe anything. Also people can get themselves in "trouble" with a homeowner by saying everything is all right then something happens at the last minute like it seemed to on this call. I was assuming that could have happened. Upgrading to a more modern auto fill is of course better to do.

    I meant that a proper maintenance couldn't have been done because I couldn't imagine the baseboard or radiators all getting hot being low on water. You could tell that even by being downstairs because the boiler temp would raise quickly and not lower when the burner is off and the pump running.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pageyjim View Post
    I suggested to replace the same with same bc it would be much easier and quicker and less costly than having to repipe anything. Also people can get themselves in "trouble" with a homeowner by saying everything is all right then something happens at the last minute like it seemed to on this call. I was assuming that could have happened. Upgrading to a more modern auto fill is of course better to do.

    I meant that a proper maintenance couldn't have been done because I couldn't imagine the baseboard or radiators all getting hot being low on water. You could tell that even by being downstairs because the boiler temp would raise quickly and not lower when the burner is off and the pump running.
    Jim,

    This is what is so confusing to me. All radiators were getting hot and operating as normal until I drained some for the air from the air bleeder. The temp in the boiler did not rise quickly at all. Somewhat close to what I would expect.

    Now that I think about it, I wonder if this is just a slow fill valve. I have seen them fill very slowly when do a purge on the system. Guess I will see tomorrow.
    Can someone please explain to me -
    Why is there never enough time to do it right the first time, but plenty of time to do it twice?


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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by joemach View Post
    Jim,

    This is what is so confusing to me. All radiators were getting hot and operating as normal until I drained some for the air from the air bleeder. The temp in the boiler did not rise quickly at all. Somewhat close to what I would expect.

    Now that I think about it, I wonder if this is just a slow fill valve. I have seen them fill very slowly when do a purge on the system. Guess I will see tomorrow.
    Sorry that I assumed too much. Yeah that doesn't make much sense to me either then. Good luck. Love to hear how it turns out.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by joemach View Post
    Jim,

    This is what is so confusing to me. All radiators were getting hot and operating as normal until I drained some for the air from the air bleeder. The temp in the boiler did not rise quickly at all. Somewhat close to what I would expect.

    Now that I think about it, I wonder if this is just a slow fill valve. I have seen them fill very slowly when do a purge on the system. Guess I will see tomorrow.
    Couple of things I’d be looking at.

    Possible you have a bad tridicator. Possible your filling slow and valve is failing or you have a restriction in the water feed line. I see copper, is it galvanized upstream?

    Those are pretty simple to replace. Galvanized close nipple and tee. 3 male adapters and your off to the races.

    Tap on the tank with something metallic. If it doesn’t feel hollow, your tank is waterlogged and the bladder inside has burst.


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by joemach View Post
    I did not have an air gauge to check the air pressure in the tank. Going back tomorrow with a good one. First boiler of the season and need to get my boiler tools all together.

    While doing the maintenance the pressure in the boiler maintained 14-15 psi while running and escribed in my first post. The boiler pressure only dropped after I released some air. I don't get it either. Makes no sense.
    You have gauges don't you?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metalman0880 View Post
    Couple of things I’d be looking at.

    Possible you have a bad tridicator. Possible your filling slow and valve is failing or you have a restriction in the water feed line. I see copper, is it galvanized upstream?

    Those are pretty simple to replace. Galvanized close nipple and tee. 3 male adapters and your off to the races.

    Tap on the tank with something metallic. If it doesn’t feel hollow, your tank is waterlogged and the bladder inside has burst.


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    He double checked and confirmed low pressure condition at a drain valve.
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  13. #13
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    First thing to do is pull that expansion tank and check its condition. If water comes out of the Schrader it is shot. If water does not come out it's probably just leaked air through its membrane and you can recharge it. That is something that happens at a slow rate every year.
    I would change the fill valve while at tank is off and yes they do fill slowly. The tank pressure controls the system and that needs to be set up right first.
    If the pressure dropped to 4 PSI that is more than likely not enough pressure now to get to the top of the radiators on the second floor and maybe not on the first floor.

    Also the pump needs to be pumping away from the pressure tank /fill, and towards the rads.

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