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  1. #14
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    Maybe.

    The Honeywell Smart Drives are set up for easy start up.

    Used to be you'd get an error code on an LED display that said something like M.10.322.4

    And you'd have to look that up. These days it is much different.

    Those Honeywell Smart Drives set up fast.


    Quote Originally Posted by Spitz View Post
    Dont the drives have that built into them?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    If you were a real tech, you'd solder a relay on that board and call it good to go.

    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

    I use 56% silver on everything except steel.

    Did you really need the " If you were a real tech " ??

  2. #15
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    You know ohms law?

    Thinking the 500 ohm resister would work.
    If you were a real tech, you'd solder a relay on that board and call it good to go.

    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

    I use 56% silver on everything except steel.

    Did you really need the " If you were a real tech " ??

  3. #16
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    The resistor will convert to 2-10

  4. #17
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    Think I'm going with the C450CPN-4C

    Surprised it was so difficult. Figured something like this would have been easy. I'm just not a controls guy.
    If you were a real tech, you'd solder a relay on that board and call it good to go.

    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

    I use 56% silver on everything except steel.

    Did you really need the " If you were a real tech " ??

  5. #18
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    May 2016
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    Upstate NY
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    Hi!

    If you look up my past threads, I started one not long ago whic is here https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread...VAengineer+vfd

    First off, let me say I'm a mechanical engineer and I work for the VA (hence my screen name), so that means I am not one of the guys out in the field doing this stuff everyday all day, so take what I say with a grain of salt. My advice and $3.50 should be able to get you a cup of coffee at starbucks!

    With that being said, I have been reading alot of VFD manuals. Currently we have installed ACH550's, Trane 150's/200's and some JCI VFD's. All of them are BACNet listed ASC's and they have their own digital and analog inputs and outputs. So if you are replacing the VFD you could wire the new sensor into the VFD and just connect the VFD to your BACNet loop. They also all have the ability to use either an analog input (like a DP) as the feedback for a PID loop to control the speed of the fan.

  6. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spitz View Post
    Dont the drives have that built into them?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Thinking back to the ones I've set up, yes most do seem to have that. A VFD and that Verris should be all that is necessary. We never do it that way though, we always have our controller in the middle so we can do other things but it's still possible.
    Scott Jalbert, WebCTRL ninja, Naiagara AX and EcoStruxure Building Expert newb, SiteScan Retired

    The master has failed more times than the beginner has even tried

  7. #20
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    Don't know of any that do not have the ability. That's how carrier used to do it with the old Toshiba E3 drives. Transmitter in the filter access area wired direct to the drive.

  8. #21
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    For me, it has more to do with troubleshooting in the future. Or walking another tech through it on the phone. Without a controller between the sensor and the VFD, it's a whole other ball game.


    Quote Originally Posted by MaxBurn View Post
    Thinking back to the ones I've set up, yes most do seem to have that. A VFD and that Verris should be all that is necessary. We never do it that way though, we always have our controller in the middle so we can do other things but it's still possible.
    If you were a real tech, you'd solder a relay on that board and call it good to go.

    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

    I use 56% silver on everything except steel.

    Did you really need the " If you were a real tech " ??

  9. #22
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    Jan 2005
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    steeler nation
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    How about this, Install it, wire it and have the vfd rep come out and set it up. Look over his shoulder and now you will know.
    IV IV IX

    use your head for something other than a hat rack.......Gerry


    We have freedom because somebody fought for it.
    We keep it because we are willing to fight for it.
    We lose it because we are not willing to fight for it.

  10. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by viceman View Post
    How about this, Install it, wire it and have the vfd rep come out and set it up. Look over his shoulder and now you will know.
    Still would not be able to walk another Tech through it on the phone.
    If you were a real tech, you'd solder a relay on that board and call it good to go.

    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

    I use 56% silver on everything except steel.

    Did you really need the " If you were a real tech " ??

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Get static sensor like mentioned above that can provide a signal however you want and have a display. 0-10 I think you mentioned you want. Those sensors usually allow the in/wc range sections and feedback ranges 0-10,2-10,4-20ma.

    Have a VFD rep out to program it up and tune it, from there all anyone should need to know about it is,
    what’s my static pressure? Is it too low or too high?
    What’s my fan speed when it’s too low or too high? Is there a problem or are all the VAVs open, or closed?
    More than likely the sensor would go bad before anything with the drive.

    You or your service guys can work on it like most others do, read the manual or call tech support, otherwise maybe look into vfd training for your employees.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolt950rider View Post
    Get static sensor like mentioned above that can provide a signal however you want and have a display. 0-10 I think you mentioned you want. Those sensors usually allow the in/wc range sections and feedback ranges 0-10,2-10,4-20ma.

    Have a VFD rep out to program it up and tune it, from there all anyone should need to know about it is,
    what’s my static pressure? Is it too low or too high?
    What’s my fan speed when it’s too low or too high? Is there a problem or are all the VAVs open, or closed?
    More than likely the sensor would go bad before anything with the drive.

    You or your service guys can work on it like most others do, read the manual or call tech support, otherwise maybe look into vfd training for your employees.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I am the go to guy when any of our techs have a technical question. It is in my best interest to make it as simple as possible.
    If you were a real tech, you'd solder a relay on that board and call it good to go.

    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

    I use 56% silver on everything except steel.

    Did you really need the " If you were a real tech " ??

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Texas
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    146
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    Static sensor for VFD

    Install VFD and control pressure using the onboard PID loop.
    Configure analog input 1 for setpoint and set the scaling for your min and max pressures.
    Next install a potentiometer that connects to input one that gives a 0-5v signal.
    Then it’s just turn a dial to adjust the signal.
    0-5v = .5-2.0 iwc.

    Most drives now a days you can transfer the setup so for troubleshooting all you have is a 0-5v signal
    Pressure transducer
    You can save the parameters for setup to the display so they can be redownloaded in the future if you have to change out the drive



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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