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Thread: Tool available for finding leak inside a wall?

  1. #1
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    Tool available for finding leak inside a wall?

    I've been lurking here for years, and joined a little while ago, but finally I'm desperate enough to ask a question.

    I have a job where I've isolated the leak to the suction line of a split system in a two-story house. And not just up two stories, but it goes up in the garage exterior wall, then through a garage soffit, then up another wall to the attic.

    It will now leak 200 PSI of nitrogen within a few minutes, so has been getting worse and worse over the weeks. The owner is prepared to run a new line, and to do it the hard way so nothing is visible from the outside. But I'm still hoping I can find it. Fortunately, I have several days to do this without inconveniencing him. After that, well, it is what it is.

    The line has the king valve shut off at the machine, and the suction and liquid lines were disconnected from the machine in the attic and sealed at the ends.

    Do we have any tools designed for finding this leak inside the walls, like plumbers do for finding water leaks underground? Or is the sheetrock guy going to make more money on this than I do? Preferably, I have enough work and make enough money and want this done the easy way.

  2. #2
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    Tool available for finding leak inside a wall?

    An ultrasonic detector might work, or a stethoscope. A leak that big, you should be able to hear with assistance.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  4. #3
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    I'll try the ultrasonic. Didn't know about those but read the reviews on Amazon for the Amprobe ULD-300. They say it won't work well through walls, but maybe this leak is big enough, and it looks like a useful tool for other leak jobs. And if it doesn't work worth having, I love the no-hassle returns. Thanks for the suggestion. The order is already being processed and will be at my door tomorrow while I'm doing other things.

  5. #4
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    Maybe this?
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    If I do a job in 30 minutes it's because I spent 30 years learning how to do that in 30 minutes. You owe me for the years, not the minutes.

    Helpful Calcs, tips, tricks on my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgm...TUTAdKmqRiTDEg

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  7. #5
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    Thanks for the help. Thought I was clear I was already going to do that but thought it keen to see if others had ideas. However, I'll be using a circular saw with shallow blade, and a lot of dust control.

  8. #6
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    Those vibrating saws make a lot less dust.
    Doug

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  10. #7
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    Yeah don't use a circular saw. A multi tool will be slower but virtually no dust flying and you can catch dust with a small shop vac under the cut.
    If I do a job in 30 minutes it's because I spent 30 years learning how to do that in 30 minutes. You owe me for the years, not the minutes.

    Helpful Calcs, tips, tricks on my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgm...TUTAdKmqRiTDEg

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  12. #8
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    Good points. I was more worried about things in the wall and being able to set the depth of my blade. I do a lot of sheetrock removal as an electrician, also, but those are much smaller pieces so it's feasible to use a handsaw or go very slowly with a 12V Sawzall.

    Let's hope the ultrasound can hear it and narrow this down, and we aren't ripping out a new pipe path.

  13. #9
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    I didn't understand what tool you guys were talking about, but pondered it a bit. I've never used one of those oscillating tools before, so did some research on them. They definitely seem worth trying for this. I ordered the 18V Makita to match most of my other truck tools. It'll be here tomorrow.

  14. #10
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    If you like it, buy the replacement blades at harbor freight. All manufacturer's blades last about the same (not long) so you might as well get them for 1/3 to 1/2 the price.
    If I do a job in 30 minutes it's because I spent 30 years learning how to do that in 30 minutes. You owe me for the years, not the minutes.

    Helpful Calcs, tips, tricks on my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgm...TUTAdKmqRiTDEg

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  16. #11
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    I have a amprobe ultrasonic, not impressed.

    I also have a Kent Moore ultrasonic with the wand and the mic in the end of the flexible wand. It is much better.

    The other good thing is I got the Kent Moore ultrasonic off eBay pretty cheap and it works great.

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  18. #12
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    Cut the rock with a utility knife - not a saw of any kind.

    Start at the bottom - about 3-4' up. Keep working your way up until you are above the leak. Stop cutting there.

    PHM
    --------


    Quote Originally Posted by MAC702 View Post
    Good points. I was more worried about things in the wall and being able to set the depth of my blade. I do a lot of sheetrock removal as an electrician, also, but those are much smaller pieces so it's feasible to use a handsaw or go very slowly with a 12V Sawzall.

    Let's hope the ultrasound can hear it and narrow this down, and we aren't ripping out a new pipe path.
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

  19. #13
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    The most likely leak points I would think would be the turns, and anywhere it passes a moulding, or penetrates a floor.


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    Dump a bunch of cheap, liquid refrigerant in it and use an infrared meter.
    "Right" is not the same as "Wise".

    Don't step on my favorite part of the Constitution just to point out your favorite part.

    Just because you can measure it, doesn't mean it is important. Just because you can't measure it, doesn't mean it isn't important.

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  23. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayguy View Post
    Dump a bunch of cheap, liquid refrigerant in it and use an infrared meter.
    Uhhhh, wait. Let me repost this advice from my spam account.
    "Right" is not the same as "Wise".

    Don't step on my favorite part of the Constitution just to point out your favorite part.

    Just because you can measure it, doesn't mean it is important. Just because you can't measure it, doesn't mean it isn't important.

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  25. #16
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    That's actually a very good idea. I've not got one nor used one, but it would be worth it if it works. Is there one that's recommended?

    EDIT: Actually, that's too good an idea to pass up. I ordered the FLIR C2 and it will be delivered tomorrow.

  26. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    Cut the rock with a utility knife - not a saw of any kind.

    Start at the bottom - about 3-4' up. Keep working your way up until you are above the leak. Stop cutting there.
    --------
    Why not an appropriate saw?

    I do fully intend to stop cutting when I find the leak. There are two walls and a garage ceiling it could be in, and I won't know how it got from the garage to the stud bay on the other side of two rooms unless I'm still taking off sheetrock when I get that far.

  27. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by heatingman View Post
    The most likely leak points I would think would be the turns, and anywhere it passes a moulding, or penetrates a floor.
    Agreed. The places hardest to get to to make the repair.

    Oh, and it's a 3/4 line going up the wall from the machine, and a 7/8 line in the attic, so...... somewhere.....

  28. #19
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    Ultrasonic on that much of a leak, should be easy to find. Might be able to rent one?
    UA Local 32 retired as of Jan 2020

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    Quote Originally Posted by buford View Post
    Ultrasonic on that much of a leak, should be easy to find. Might be able to rent one?
    this is what I would try first.....if that doesn't work, then try Jay's idea.....oh crap, I used the wrong username too!! LOL!!


    seriously though, unless someone recently hung some pictures or screwed something into the wall, your most likely leak spots are solder joints....start there. since the line is isolated, I wouldn't feel bad about pumping up to 500-600 psi with nitrogen. if you're losing 200 psi in a few minutes, you'll easily find it with high pressure nitrogen. get a few 125's or a 300 size bottle.....you'll need it.

    I would try my very best to locate that one before cutting all the drywall out, and running new.

    let us what you find!

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