ReplyPoly.
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Which is more preferred in the 4" to 8" range? Total cost, longevity, etc. How about it aces? Thank you very much
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Poly.
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You doing a water line ?
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We do not chase plumbing work...
However what I see with replacement of water lines (small)...
Is PEX.
Not sure if that is what you are asking about...
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I would use PVC type or FRP underground. With iron type you have to worry about cathodic protection. Coatings are OK unless you have a holiday (flaw) in the coating and then the pipe will deteriorate rapidly at that point.
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I had to repair a leak on a 6" underground cast iron water main.Originally Posted by WAYNE3298
Seems a limestone had been up against it all those years and corroded a hole in it. By the time we got the water off it was a 30' geyser. Bought a stainless band that goes around the pipe and gets bolted together.
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Yeah VTP99. Once a cell action gets started the result isn't pretty. Several years ago I designed a tower water system that had buried 24" diameter schedule 40 steel pipe. The design included a state of the art cathodic protection system that failed the test for adequate protection. Ironically after a lot of hair pulling trying to figure out why the contractor called and said the wire securing the ID tag for the isolation flange where the pipe entered the ground was wrapped around both sides of the flange. That of course defeated the protection. He removed the tag and all was good.
No man can be both ignorant and free.
Thomas Jefferson
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