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Thread: Wine Cellar - Solenoid hammer question

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    Gravity evaporator coils create air flow by convection. So the 'return air' is the temperature directly above them.

    Measuring the temperature at the center of the vertical height is a workable compromise.

    How big is the fin spacing on the evaporator coils? How many fins are there in one inch?

    PHM
    ---------
    Custom made

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  2. #62
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    .
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  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    .
    Nice setup !
    Ductless split ?

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmbinette View Post
    Thanks pecmsg for your input.
    There is no return air since the evaporators are gravity only. The temp probe is near the bottom 2/3 inside the box

    I will monitor for a few days and get back to you with the results.

    Thank you again and I will finish with one last question : what would be a "safe" start/stop duty cycle for the compressor ? (For example start for 15min every 2hours)
    With those coils You must get the compressor SH dialed in.

    Refrigeration systems take 15 mins of run time to stabilize. 30 - 45 mins an hr is good run times.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmbinette View Post
    Nice setup !
    Ductless split ?
    .
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  6. #66
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    I've never seen a gravity coil in a wine cellar, there was a company that used to offer them for wine cellars but discontinued it. You need a lot of coil for the space.

    you have the unit ducted to the outside, this will require not only fan cycling but should have a crankcase heater as well. Do you have makeup air? Do you have a single pipe furnace or water heater? Just blowing the hot air out is a bad idea usually.

    Fan cycling for most r-22 systems should be 210-275

    to function properly I believe this setup would require an EPR

    How is the room temperature controlled? LPS? use 24 vac controls and a wifi thermostat because machines break.

    cutout is low for temp control and high for pump down.

  7. #67
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    It's in his basement.

  8. #68
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    Just wanted to clear up some misinformation regarding the Danfoss KPU6W high pressure switch that OP says is wired to condenser fan - this is a SPDT switch that can most certainly be used as a fan cycle switch. The words 'MANUAL TRIP' is labeled on almost all Danfoss pressure switches and is simply telling you where to press with your fingers to manually close or open the switch to test operation. As you can see on the documentation the KPU6W is Auto Reset.

    That part adds up, as well as the Penn P70NA-1 being a dual pressure switch. And the part about the Penn A421 controlling the solenoid makes sense, since an A421 is a thermostat.

    /edit - sorry didnt realize this was DIY.

    20190727_210419.pdf

    Screenshot_20190727-173359_Drive.pdf

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  9. #69
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    The hammer is more likely caused by the distance between the solenoid valve and the expansion valve. When the valve opens, the liquid slams into the TXV. Under vacuum, you're getting an almost instantaneous flash of liquid to gas before the TXV, then the collapse of the same. BANG! SV and TXV should be as close as practical to avoid this. Another problem might be if you didn't get a good vacuum when you set it up, non-condensibles can cause this too. I hope you can get all the settings back to the way they were. All the fiddling in the world won't make it run right and not bang. Have the SV and TXV placed right next to each other. If you don't, there's gonna be noise, cracked fittings, and broken TXV seats. The OUTLETS of the TXV's can be run, insulated, to the evaporators if need be.
    • Now about this duct you connected to the condensing unit. The fans in condensing units are not intended to move air through a duct. You SHOULD have just had the condensing unit set outdoors. The fact that there's a fan cycle control tells us that it was likely intended to be outdoors. If it's not already, it would need to be in an enclosure. That's the right way. Why hasn't who-ever did the refrigeration for you recommend that? (I don't know) Of course, you also have to realize that all that air being exhausted is coming for inside your house right? You paid to heat or cool that air!
    ••As to the plate evaporators; they are fairly common in wine coolers and flower boxes. They CAN frost up a bit, but because there are no fans, the condensation evaporates back into the 'room', The highest humidity hangs closer to the floor, and the warm air rises gently to the plates.
    ►►►Lastly, you're making entirely too much of this. It's a simple problem with a simple solution.
    (All us techs know what I am eluding to)

  10. #70
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    Hello! It seems to me that here you really need to increase the pipe in order to lower the speed. The speed is high.

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