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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    nebraska
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    Refrigerant turns into an odorless gas as it leaks so no you won't see a mess or smell it. Since the sniffer didn't pick up a leak and they're assuming it's in the wall an isolation test would be a wise next move. Refrigerant is removed from the system and it's separated into components, indoor, lines and outdoor. Then they put a few hundred psi of nitrogen in each section and come back the next day and see which section lost some pressure. If it does end up being in the wall your options become open the walls or run new ones on the outside of the house and cover them.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    6,294
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    “One last question - based on the previous replies - how do I find out of they registered my systems with Amana for the warranty? They said they had to do it (not me) but I want to make sure it was done.”

    Did they register your system?


    Warranty lookup need serial numbers of each piece of equipment.

    https://www.amana-hac.com/warranty-lookup

    To register

    https://www.amana-hac.com/product-registration
    Last edited by Bazooka Joey; 11-29-2019 at 05:11 PM.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Chico, Ca #StateofJefferson
    Posts
    1,633
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    Sounds like you need to ask for the most senior tech they have as the other guy isn't sure if it's a low charge or a bad metering device. They will both show a lot of the same symptoms so inexperienced techs are often unsure. Any system under pressure has the potential to leak anywhere at any time so I would ask the tech to show you a picture of the leak with bubble mix once the electronic sniffer finds it, that's not always possible so you may want to follow the tech while he's looking. If the lineset was reused and no one has put a nail into the wall recently then the odds are pretty damn low of it being there, and a lot of time refrigerant oil will begin staining the drywall near the leak. YOU are responsible for registering the equipment, but the companies I've worked for register it for you as part of the purchase, sounds like shadiness that they told you only they could, that sets off my BS meter, also in my experience you'll know the system is low on charge the hotter it gets. If the high is 78, it may cool the home still being low on charge or with a bad metering device, this is still damaging to the compressor over the long run but the more heat the building is absorbing the more it has to be working correctly to keep temp. If they cant fix it then maybe it's time to ask the owner if they will cover the cost of a 3rd party to come do an inspection since they are not capable of fixing something you paid them a lot of money for. Ultimately it's on them to fix it or remove and refund you, as far as I'm concerned, let us know how it goes and hold their toes to the fire

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Gladstone, Oregon (Portland)
    Posts
    1,780
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    If it is a bad metering device I am highly skeptical things were done right on the front end.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    13
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    Thread Starter
    Thanks again. You guys are awesome. They sent out their lead tech. What he is telling me today is that it is too cold outside for the A/C to kick in. Since it is 45 outside right this second, I get that. But it was 57 outside four days ago when this happened the second time, and 80 the first time. Maybe the three times are unrelated. The A/C in the living room works fine at 45 degrees outside (again, I am not running them right now, but they tested this second unit when they were here). A/C in teh bedroom is a two stage unit and he said that makes a difference. The one for the living room is a single stage. Basically the coil is calling for cold, the outside unit is saying "nope... too cold". Guess i have to wait until it gets warm again. The challenge is we have an annual party for Christmas and with 60 people in the house it gets pretty warm. I also have multiple computers in my office that warms it up into the 80's... so in the past I have run the A/C's all winter long during the daytime (except when it gets really cold here in Vegas). Guess with these newer units that may not be possible. Time to open a window when it gets cool. He said the freon level was fine BTW.

    Thanks again all. I will update if I find out anything else.

    ./Dad

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Gladstone, Oregon (Portland)
    Posts
    1,780
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    Wrong day to have someone out to check AC.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    nebraska
    Posts
    2,809
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    Tell them to add low ambient controls to your units if you need/want to run them when it's cool out.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Gladstone, Oregon (Portland)
    Posts
    1,780
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    Quote Originally Posted by martyinlincoln View Post
    Tell them to add low ambient controls to your units if you need/want to run them when it's cool out.
    I don’t even know why he is worried about cooling right now. I’m confused.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Chico, Ca #StateofJefferson
    Posts
    1,633
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    I cant remember who told me that Copeland found years ago that more compressors died on Thanksgiving day than any other day of the year. It being significantly colder outside , liquid refrigerant migrates to the compressor then a high load occurs with people and cooking inside the home and someone turns on the a/c. Compressors starts up and the refrigerant washes oil out of the bearings, until it seizes or burns out. Now a low ambient kit will allow the system to run safely down to 0*F or whatever the manufacturer designs it for without damaging the system, as Marty said get one installed, its costs so much less than a compressor

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    78,340
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    You can go online to Amana and check.

    The line set can be disconnected from the indoor unit and checked for leaks. By brazing the lines shut at the indoor unit, and pressurizing them with nitrogen.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    13
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Adlerberts-Protege View Post
    I don’t even know why he is worried about cooling right now. I’m confused.
    You have to live in Vegas to understand :-). Here is an example - at night it may get down to 45. But during the day it is 55 - 60. So we might run the heat early in the morning when getting ready for work/school. Afternoon hits and it is 60 outside. Wind is usually blowing with dust and allergens flying around. No snow to keep that stuff on the group. You dont want to open windows or doors due to allergies (that are pretty much year-round here nowadays). I work from home so with the sun on the roof, the attic gets up to 90 even with it being 60 outside. Plus I am running multiple computers in my office. I may have run the oven too. That all adds heat to the home.

    These homes are 2x4 construction with the minimum R factor for insulation (I dont recall what the R level is) but the bottom line is that even at 60 when the sun is out, the home gets up to 75. Night time hits and it is time to head to bed. Sleeping at 75 isnt fun. So I try to cool the house to 70. Yes, it is 55 outside at night and will be 45 at 3:00 a.m..... but it is still 75 in the house. I can't open the door/window due to the dust/allergens so I don't have any way to cool the home down - except to wait for the heat to bleed off at 2:00 in the morning as I lay in be sweating. I have been here 25 years now, and have always run my A/C at times in the winter (these were old 10 SEER units). I know it is hard to believe, but Vegas is just a weird place when it comes to weather. And for me, it is very hard to sleep when the house temp is 75.

    Right now, it is 45 outside - too cold to need the A/C (I get it). But when this started happening it was still in the high 50's and even up to 70 (the first time). So I believe what the tech is telling me - but this unit wasn't kicking on when it was 60 outside. So now I have to wait for it to warm up to see if there is really a problem.

    Hope this helps - really appreciate your replies.
    Best.

    ./Dad

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    13
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    You can go online to Amana and check.

    The line set can be disconnected from the indoor unit and checked for leaks. By brazing the lines shut at the indoor unit, and pressurizing them with nitrogen.
    That is the next step if the unit wont turn on when it is warmer. My real challenge is that the reason they are not kicking on keeps changing. One time it is a loss of communication from the attic unit to the outside unit. But then it is low freon (but he wouldn't tell me if he actually had to add freon). Then it is because it is too cold outside. The installers told me they tested the line for leaks but who knows if that really happened. They installed the units in a single 12 hour day. Not sure when they would have had time (not sure how long that takes).

    Guess we will see when it warms up.

    Thanks again for the reply,

    ./Dad

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    13
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by martyinlincoln View Post
    Tell them to add low ambient controls to your units if you need/want to run them when it's cool out.
    The lead tech (I think he was the owner of the company) said that to "fix" this I would need to drop the unit from a 2-stage to a single-stage since that "eliminates one of the control boards that is not allowing the compressor to kick on". But I paid for a dual stage because in Vegas the unit may run all night long, and the 2-stage is supposed to save money by not running the compressor at full speed (not sure I have that right? That is what the salesperson said).

    I will ask about the low-ambient controls when they come back out.

    Thanks Marty,

    ./Dad

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