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Thread: Float Switch Issue

  1. #1
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    Float Switch Issue

    Hello all, Just went out to look at a unit due to condensate overflow. Making a long story short; the unit did not have a float switch installed. After making several corrections to the drain line I installed a F/S and attempted to trip it with no success. Seems the condensate level rises in housing with the switch removed (positive pressure unit) but when the switch is reinstalled the level goes back down. I confirmed this by sealing off the opening of the T with a clear piece of plastic. Any ideas what might be causing this?

  2. #2
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    Defective float switch or wired wrong.

    Did you remove it and ohm it or use a co timidity tester to ensure it breaks continuity when tripped?

  3. #3
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    Red from the AH transformer to Red from Stat? inline fuse?

  4. #4
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    You really should call a professional!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    You really should call a professional!
    Funny...............I've been working in HVAC since 93 so I know just a little about wiring a float switch.

    Re-read the post. With the float switch installed in the housing the condensate level in the housing will not rise. Like it's air locked. With the switch removed from the housing the water level rises. The switch wiring isn't the issue. Water will not flow into the housing to raise the float to open the circuit when the switch is installed in the housing.

  6. #6
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    Since 93 why are you killing ALL control voltage? That can be dangerous in the winter b

  7. #7
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Since 93 why are you killing ALL control voltage? That can be dangerous in the winter b

    Are you against float switches?

  8. #8
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    If you have a non-codensing furnace maybe just just break the outdoor condenser low-voltage (usually yellow) if you don't want to risk breaking heat in the winter.

  9. #9
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    What brand and MN# of float sw do you have??

  10. #10
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by TechmanTerry View Post
    What brand and MN# of float sw do you have??
    Little Giant ACS-4.

  11. #11
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    .
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  12. #12
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by NETWizz View Post
    If you have a non-codensing furnace maybe just just break the outdoor condenser low-voltage (usually yellow) if you don't want to risk breaking heat in the winter.
    Thanks NETWizz but the wiring is perfectly fine; no worries there. One of the members posts from yesterday has gotten this way off topic by assuming too much. The question still remains - Has anyone ever experienced a float switch housing not filling with condensate with the float switch installed? With the float switch pulled out of the housing the condensate will fill it up. As soon as the switch is reinstalled the condensate level drops back down. I've confirmed this by placing a piece of plastic wrap over the opening and seeing it retreat back into the unit. It appears that the internal positive pressure is the only thing that is allowing the condensate to travel into the float switch housing. Once that air flow is shut off the condensate flows back into the unit. The air handler is "pitched" enough that drainage should not be a problem.

  13. #13
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    Which configuration are you using and on which drain hole ?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    Which configuration are you using and on which drain hole ?

    It's the last configuration (#3) at the bottom of the page you attached.

    It's installed in the reduced opening drain port.

    The original "installer" had piped the main condensate drain into the float port and never installed any type of float switch. The main drain port had been plugged since day one. It had been that way ever since the unit was installed. This obviously kept the primary internal pan on verge of overflow all the time.

  15. #15
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    Did you vent the drain line properly? No where for the air to go but get trapped at the highest point if you did not.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BALloyd View Post
    Did you vent the drain line properly? No where for the air to go but get trapped at the highest point if you did not.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
    Yes, drain line is vented correctly.

  17. #17
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    Thread Starter
    Forgive my crude rendering but this a representation of what's going on in the float housing.Name:  FS.jpg
Views: 500
Size:  50.7 KB

  18. #18
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    If this is an overflow port only, just a safety capped off. If the water is running down the primary pipe and the switch installed correctly, as long as water is not backed up isn’t it working correctly. When water backs up it will “flood” the tee and trip. Are you making it flood as if primary is stopped up? When you take it out the pressure is pushing water toward the open tee. I use a switch just like this one and have had little problems. Most problem I see is too high static. Sounds like it may be working, flood it and see, or/and install the wet switch and be done.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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